| Author |
Message |
"The Don" (Mlemus)
Advanced Member
Username: Mlemus
Post Number: 4662
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, May 15, 2003 - 7:57 am: | |
Arnaldo,
Their labor rate is $125 per hour and "the book" says one hour. the rest is oil (they only use Ferrari recommended oil read:$$$$ and Filter. They cannot use Mobil 1 or Balwin Filters. Their hands are tied.
Matt |
Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member
Username: Caribe
Post Number: 476
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Friday, May 09, 2003 - 4:29 pm: | |
Marc, that is pure robbery. Another form of white collar crime, if you ask me. I am very familiar with that dealer. They sell Audi, Porsche, and Ferraris. I wander how much they charge for the same service on an Audi, because really, it is not more complicated and it should not take them any longer. The only price differential should be the cost of the Oil Filter. But then, we all know how much the word "Ferrari" adds to the cost when having it written on the receipt. |
John Dillinger (Johndillinger)
Junior Member
Username: Johndillinger
Post Number: 83
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Friday, May 09, 2003 - 3:38 pm: | |
found mobil 1 full syn (to be the best) per Ferrari of Montreal - thats all they put in them (after a servoce) and i have had no problems with mine. regarding the oil filter, found a ferrari parts link in FML (very inexpensive) ill post the link soon |
Marc A. Thurston (Btownv12)
New member
Username: Btownv12
Post Number: 33
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Friday, May 09, 2003 - 2:58 pm: | |
Paul - I was quoted $200 - $300 from Autogallery in Los Angeles. |
Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member
Username: Caribe
Post Number: 475
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Friday, May 09, 2003 - 2:43 pm: | |
I normally buy them from the dealer because it is convenient for me ($34), but it might be cheaper somewhere else. As far as oil, I use Castrol 10w40 as specified in the manual. For an engine design this old, getting too technical with the highly advance oils of today seems pointless to me. |
Paul Jeffery (Peajay)
New member
Username: Peajay
Post Number: 35
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Friday, May 09, 2003 - 2:12 pm: | |
Just curious, how much have you been quoted for an oil change by a "professional" ?? |
Marc A. Thurston (Btownv12)
New member
Username: Btownv12
Post Number: 32
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Friday, May 09, 2003 - 11:37 am: | |
How available are the oil filters? Any suggestions on where to purchase them? I have seen the debate on the motor oil. Is there any consensus on which type works best in a TR? |
Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member
Username: Caribe
Post Number: 473
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2003 - 10:00 pm: | |
Marc, I normally warm up the engine first. To make things easier and less messy, I use two drain pans. One for the dry sump drain hole, and the other for the oil tank drain hole.
Drain the sump first, then remove the oil filter and let it drain on the pan as well. Next, let the oil drain from the tank. Replace all drain plugs, screw on a new filter, and add 12 quarts of oil. one thing that I normally do is to write with a permanent marker on the top of the new oil filter the change date. I use it as a reminder to change the oil based on time if I haven't reached the 3K miles yet.
One more thing, you need to check the oil level with the engine warm, never cold, and never add more than 12 quarts. Consequently, I add about about 11.5 quarts, turn on the engine, let it warm for a few minutes, and recheck the oil level. Add additional oil to reach the correct level, but remember to never over fill. |
Jeff Green (Carguy)
Member
Username: Carguy
Post Number: 263
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2003 - 8:29 pm: | |
One thing I do is to fill the oil filter with new oil prior to installing. Keeps the "dry start" condition to a minimum. |
"The Don" (Mlemus)
Advanced Member
Username: Mlemus
Post Number: 4534
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2003 - 4:14 pm: | |
Marc,
If you find yourself in Valencia or Santa Clarita, Drop by and I'll show you how. I even have the copper gakets. It should not take more then a 1 hour.
Matt
[email protected] |
David M. Castelhano (Servizioman)
New member
Username: Servizioman
Post Number: 10
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2003 - 4:11 pm: | |
Marc, TRs have dry sump engines so both the engine sump and the engine oil tank need to be drained. It is helpful to have new copper washers for each drain plug. Warm oil will drain faster and more completely than cold oil. If you want to be real fussy collect an oil sample to be analysed by an aircraft facility or oil lab. This is usefull for many reasons not the least of which is the diagnostic information provided by the lab. Drain the remainder into a bucket and dispose of properly. New oil goes into the oil tank. Don't forget your new oil filter. Check the dipstick regularly while filling the tank. Everyone has their own method of checking the level. I like to run the engine briefly and then check the oil after the engine has been shutoff. Too much oil can be as bad as not enough. Check for leaks when you are done both from the drain plugs and the oil filter. Take your time and double check your work. |
Paul Bianco (Paulie_b)
Junior Member
Username: Paulie_b
Post Number: 76
Registered: 1-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2003 - 4:05 pm: | |
I had a TR and wanted to do it myself but chose not to. I was told that it is a very messy job. besides that, I think it takes 12 or 13 quarts. |
Marc A. Thurston (Btownv12)
New member
Username: Btownv12
Post Number: 31
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2003 - 3:34 pm: | |
With all of the discussion lately about the high cost of oil changes. What is the proceedure for changing the oil in a TR?
Thanks |