| Author | Message | ||
| F-J'87EuroTR (Ferrarijoe)
Member Username: Ferrarijoe Post Number: 311 Registered: 5-2001 |
Jeff, You are welcome. I rebuilt my fuel distributors last spring and I still have several digital pictures of the process. If you need any, let me know and I can either email them to you or post them here. Also, I do have the Factory KE-Jetronic manual for 1987 TR's, so if you need me to scan and send any info or pages, let me know. Joe | ||
| Jeff Green (Carguy)
Member Username: Carguy Post Number: 266 Registered: 10-2002 |
......(stunned silence)....Thanks so Much Ferrarijoe! Perhaps you should consider writing a manual? I will check the sensor plates as you described. Your knowledge and description of the procedure are very impressive. What would I do without this board? Again, thanks for this invaluable information. You know...just when I think there is no hope, somebody comes through! I really appreciate it! | ||
| F-J'87EuroTR (Ferrarijoe)
Member Username: Ferrarijoe Post Number: 310 Registered: 5-2001 |
Jeff, You might try adjusting the air sensor plates on the fuel distributors. A little caution is needed if you have not done this before. Do you have a Bosch fuel injection manual? They are worth their weight in gold for this procedure. First you must check to see if you sensor plates are set in the Zero position. Here is how you check to see if the sensor plate is in the zero (rest) position. 1. Remove the whole air intake/filter plenum to expose the air funnel and sensor plate. 2. Make sure your fuel system is pressurized. If it is not, or your not sure, you can turn the ignition key on but not start the motor and you will hear an initial humming noise from the fuel pumps. Do it a couple of times and the system should be up to pressure if your fuel accumulator is working properly. 3. There should be some downward play when you lightly touch the sensor plate. The top of the sensor plate should be 4.2 to 4.5mm above the bottom of the funnel at the cylindrical portion of the metering funnel which is 5mm high. See illustration below.  A) Basic Position: Upper surface of sensor plate coincidental with the lower edge of cylindrical portion of funnel. B) Contact Position: Position of initial contact between pivoting lever and control plunger (with fuel system under pressure) must be 2-2.3mm above basic position (A). This position is adjusted initially with the stop screw underneath the fuel distributor head. C) Rest (zero) position (engine off) Must be 4.2-4.5mm above basic position (A). Adjustable with a proper punch, through guide pin on left side of FD block. If your sensor plates are not positioned as stated above, follow these steps so that they are. You will need a 3mm punch, light hammer, a light and a small mirror. In most cases, the rest position is too high. You will know by looking at the top of the sensor plate and its position as related to the cylindrical portion of the funnel away from the FD head (towards rear of car). If the top of the sensor plate is above the upper cylindrical portion, it is to high and you will need to adjust it downward (punch). Use great care when punching down the guide pin. It is located just to the left of the fuel mixture screw access hole. It looks like a small solid steel pin. If you go too far the only way to get the pin back up is to remove and disassembly the FD blocks. Be careful and keep re-measuring after one light tap of the hammer at a time. Once the Zero position is confirmed or established, reassemble the air intake/filter plenum and warm up you motor to normal temperature. Remove the sensor plate adjuster access screw on top between the distributor and rubber bellows (should be a phillips head). With a 3mm Allen tool, T-handle preferred for referencing, insert it into the access hole. You should make note of the position of the �T� (o�clock position) and feel the exhaust output with your hand on the side your adjusting. If you have a dual muffler exhaust system, it will be the opposite side tips from the cylinder bank you are adjusting. Adjust the sensor plate at very small increments (1/8 turns for example). The motor will either smooth out or start to oscillate worse than before depending on which direction you adjust. You may have to adjust the idle screws on the throttle bodies to adjust the idle to 900 rpms, + or � 50 rpms. Also, be aware that you may have to adjust the air adjusting screws (big knobs) located on the throttle bodies. Do both banks until motor is running even. The real test is when you do a cold start the next day. Hope this helps, Joe | ||
| Dave Helms (Davehelms)
New member Username: Davehelms Post Number: 3 Registered: 5-2003 |
slightly too rich on one, or both banks | ||
| James J. McGee (Dr_ferrari)
Junior Member Username: Dr_ferrari Post Number: 93 Registered: 7-2002 |
Jeff, My suggestion is not to do it yourself. Send to a qualified Ferrari technician to properly set up the engine. It takes time, patience and a couple of pieces of equipment that the normal customer does not have. Sorry, wish I had an easy fix for it but believe me it`s better to leave this one to the expert. Best regards, Jim | ||
| Jeff Green (Carguy)
Member Username: Carguy Post Number: 265 Registered: 10-2002 |
My TR is running pretty good except for an intermittent idle surging. It will go from about 800 up to 1400rpm several times before settling down. But it doesn't do this all the time. And it does it warm or cold. I have attempted to decipher the manual but am still confused. Has anyone figured out a "backyard mechanic" method of setting the adjustments on the fuel injection system? |