| Author |
Message |
DJ (Godfather)
Junior Member
Username: Godfather
Post Number: 59
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2003 - 3:07 pm: | |
Put on a battery tender or turn off the battery. |
Russ Gould (Russ)
New member
Username: Russ
Post Number: 6
Registered: 2-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2003 - 2:30 pm: | |
Fit a batty disconnect and use it...every Ferrari that is not driven often can use one. Plus they are useful when doing work on the car, to avoid shorts. |
JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member
Username: Jrvall
Post Number: 1430
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2003 - 4:26 pm: | |
>>It shouldn't be drawing current unlesss the turn-on lead has power.<<
Right..
problem is many of them "DO" draw current, which is "the" problem.
I've got way to many other things to do to become a radio repair man, but I've seen "MANY" amps killing batteries and alternators over the years. Not always for the same reasons of course, but the "Oh Well" logic never quite rang true in my book. |
Randall (Randall)
Member
Username: Randall
Post Number: 437
Registered: 1-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2003 - 3:23 pm: | |
The amp should be wired straight into the battery. With just a fuse inline somewhere. It shouldn't be drawing current unlesss the turn-on lead has power. |
David Harris (Dakharris)
Junior Member
Username: Dakharris
Post Number: 166
Registered: 6-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2003 - 2:33 pm: | |
The amp in my '85 Mondial was wired directly to the battery by a "professional" and it drains the battery after about three weeks of inactivity. Because there are so many problems with the wiring on a Mondial, I did not want to make things worse. My solution is to drive the car more often or hook up the trickle charger. |
TomD (Tifosi)
Advanced Member
Username: Tifosi
Post Number: 3581
Registered: 9-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2003 - 9:17 am: | |
the other issue is that the amp is probably drawing more powe than the alt can deleiver when the car is on - it therefore draws from the battery. when ever you put in an amp you have to make sure the alt supplies enough power, there is a simple formula for checking this, I can't remember it but check out www.crutchfield.com - look in the install guide and it show this |
JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member
Username: Jrvall
Post Number: 1424
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2003 - 11:36 am: | |
Many of the "custom" stereo installations that I've seen killing batteries were wired into the battery directly, instead of being wired thru the ignition switch. I'm assuming they do this for full battery power for heavy draw amplifiers. Problem is they don't always shut completey down over time and cause a continual draw even with the key turned off, quickly killing most batteries. |
Randall (Randall)
Member
Username: Randall
Post Number: 432
Registered: 1-2003
| | Posted on Friday, May 09, 2003 - 10:59 pm: | |
The amp should only turn on when the stereo is on. There's a turn on lead (usually blue wire) that connects up near the power and ground. Are you sure the amp is on with the stereo off? There should be an indicating light or something on the amp. If not you could check the amplifiers outputs to see if there is power with the radio off. |
Ken Ross (Kdross)
Member
Username: Kdross
Post Number: 348
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Friday, May 09, 2003 - 10:35 pm: | |
A friend of mine has a 1986 Mondial 3.2 Coupe with a custom stereo. The stereo appears to have been professionally installed when the car was new and cost about $3K in 1986. There is a Denon radio, Denon CD player, and an amp. The radio does not power on when the car is off, but the amp appears to remain on at all times. The amp has a 30 amp fuse on the back of the unit and is hardwired to the battery. Because it is hardwired to the battery, this is the source of the power drain on the car. My question is how do I rewire the amp to a power source that only works when the car is on? One thought I had was to splice in an on/off toggle switch into the wire that runs to the battery. My fear is that I do not want to over load an existing fuse or the ignition switch. Since the audio system was professional installed, they must have had a reason for running the power directly to the battery than splice into another source. What do the experts on the list recommend that I do? |