| Author |
Message |
BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member
Username: Bretm
Post Number: 2312
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 11:25 pm: | |
Maybe I should read all of what other people say before posting, sorry. Do as Verell says. |
BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member
Username: Bretm
Post Number: 2311
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 11:23 pm: | |
Tap it with a plastic or rubber mallet too. Then go to wooden wedges. Between these two things there is not a part on the engine that wont come off. Mine came apart no problem, or at least compared to various other engine things. |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Junior Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 84
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 10:11 pm: | |
David's right on, you want to use something that won't gouge up the mating surfaces. In addition to building shims, I've just trimmed a sharp edge on a paint mixing stick, & even used a hard plastic 'bondo' type spreader. HW stores also sell plastic putty knives. Some of them are fairly thick & have sharp enough edges so you can wedge them into the old gasket.
Another trick I've used is to put a small block of wood alongside of a gasketed seam & tap it a couple of times with a hammer. Often opens the seam up. Used this to get a cam cover off last spring.
Sometimes just whacking the seam sideways with a rubber, or plastic mallot will do it. Just used this to get my sump cover loose.
BTW, If you use an anaerobic gasket maker as a gasket dressing, the housing will usually peel clean from the gasket. I usually don't have to replace a gasket once I've used a sealant, just smooth up the surface, re-apply the sealant & voila, it's ready to bolt together again. Silicone as a dressing usually comes clean also, but tends to glue the seam together until you break it loose somehow.
Still & All, they're all lots better than the old shellac based gasket dressings. Once you married the parts together, it'd take an act of god to separate them.
|
David Feinberg (Fastradio2)
New member
Username: Fastradio2
Post Number: 7
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, April 14, 2002 - 2:06 pm: | |
Peter,
The best way to separate the pumo from the housing, without damaging the mating surface is to use wooden shims...the kind used to shim a door in place. Any home store carries them for about a $1.00 a pack. I've been using this "trick" on Ferraris/Alfas for years. Just place the sharp edge of the shim against the seam of the housing gasket flange...and whack away. If you find that the pump still won't budge, some Thrust penetrating oil, made by Castle will help...along with heat from a propane torch on the areas around the bolt holes. |
Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Intermediate Member
Username: Irfgt
Post Number: 1057
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, April 14, 2002 - 9:44 am: | |
You can tap a putty knife between the two housings. |
Peter B. (Gts308qv)
Junior Member
Username: Gts308qv
Post Number: 191
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, April 14, 2002 - 9:09 am: | |
Seized water pump on my QV! All the bolts and nuts off, but still won't budge. Any tricks to get pump seperated from thermostat housing. |