| Author |
Message |
BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member
Username: Bretm
Post Number: 2350
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 17, 2002 - 9:01 am: | |
I use never-seez on nearly everything, which makes a BIG difference when going to pull things apart again. |
magoo (Magoo)
Intermediate Member
Username: Magoo
Post Number: 2449
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 16, 2002 - 11:41 pm: | |
Mitchell, Glad to see you used that anti-seize lube. My wheels were also tight when I removed them. I used anti-seize on all the lug bolts when I installed them. |
BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member
Username: Bretm
Post Number: 2317
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 16, 2002 - 10:06 am: | |
The front rims (aluminum) of my jeep come off every once in awhile for various things, mostly because of the disks up front and drums in back, which leads to the rear rims never coming off excluding tire changes. Needless to say when I did go to take them off a couple months ago they were stuck as a bastard. You probably could've run them with no lugs and been fine. It took me like twenty minutes to get the two off banging away with a rubber mallet and spraying liquid qrench like it was my job. Since the Ferrari rims come off everyday it seems, I don't think I'll have a problem with them. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 671
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 16, 2002 - 9:43 am: | |
I just want to comment that this isn't a problem unique to Ferrari. I'm amazed that auto manufacturers don't do something more to help prevent corrosion in the wheel/hub/brake disc area. It's even worse now that most car/trucks have aluminum wheels so the whole assembly is big galvanic cell -- throw in the bare steel/iron disc and hub (which will rust just from the moisture in the atmosphere) and it's no wonder there's trouble. I was really amazed at the amount of corrosion on the wife's new (then) SUV at only 10K miles/1 year old -- next time I buy a new car first thing I'm going to do is pull the wheels and apply some protectant on the hub/disc/drum/wheel mounting areas -- JMO. |
Mitchell Minh Le (Yelcab1)
Junior Member
Username: Yelcab1
Post Number: 121
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 16, 2002 - 9:02 am: | |
Thanks all.
In the end, I let the penetrant soak in for 2 days, use a block of wood and a big hammer, then heat the area with a Butane torch. It took a good 10 minutes of pounding but it eventually slid free. That is a tight fit.
Cleaned everything off, sand paper the rust away, clean the suspension pieces behind it, and reassembled everything with Anti-freeze material.
Next time, I will not work so hard.
Mitchell |
Bill Sebestyen (Bill308)
Junior Member
Username: Bill308
Post Number: 155
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 8:19 pm: | |
Mitchel,
You want clean the od of the bearing carrier real well because its a very smoochy fit with the hole in the disc. Also you want to apply penetrant to the bolt hole areas where the disk mates with the hub. Striking with a soft, dead blow hammer should open up the interface between the disc and hub so the penetrant will work between the two parts. Keep striking the back side of the disc, rotating the disc, and reapplying penetrant. Eventually, penetrant will work its way between the parts, do its work, and the separation will grow. |
Ric Rainbolt (Ricrain)
New member
Username: Ricrain
Post Number: 50
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 12:15 pm: | |
Donny has it right. I use a dead blow mallet and smack the back moderately as I turn the rotor. |
Donny Bridges (Wildcatfans)
New member
Username: Wildcatfans
Post Number: 45
Registered: 9-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, April 14, 2002 - 9:09 pm: | |
I kept smacking mine with a bigger hammer against a block of wood resting on the rotor and rotated it after four or five hits. It took a while, but eventually it does come off. I also used Kroil, that stuff is great. |
magoo (Magoo)
Intermediate Member
Username: Magoo
Post Number: 2403
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, April 14, 2002 - 9:06 pm: | |
Mitchell, I can't imagine that happening there in that area. Anyway WD40 is not much of a rust dissolver like loosen nut or one of the major rust looseners. I would get a good rust loosener and keep trying to free it with a hammer in the areas not affecting the faces of the rotor. The last thing would be to use heat, but I don't think propane will do it, not hot enough. |
Mitchell Minh Le (Yelcab1)
Junior Member
Username: Yelcab1
Post Number: 120
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, April 14, 2002 - 8:55 pm: | |
I did so well with the rear suspension, I thought I would tackle the front ones. Well, stuck right off the bat.
The lug bolts are off, the caliper is off, the two guide pins are off with one having to be drilled out. But, the front rotor (driver side) is absolutely will-not-budge-forget-it-kid stuck on.
I tried:
1. A small hammer,
2. A big hammer
3. WD-40 repeatedly
4. Using the two caliper bolts as a reverse press to push out the rotor from behind.
What do I do next? The other side came off easier but still had some problem with rust.
Should I try a propane torch? A butane torch? That rotor is so thick it would be a huge heatsink so a torch may not even do it.
Help please! |