| Author |
Message |
Robert Johnson
| | Posted on Saturday, February 03, 2001 - 11:40 pm: | |
For no more than they cost, try a set of Autolite or Champion plugs. NGK's are good plugs. I have used them in racing bikes and karts, but I have found that minor differences in plug manufacturers can make major differences on the dyno in any particular engine. For example, Bosch plugs in a hot BMW performed better than Champion or Crossfire. Autolites in a Chevy small block performed better than AC or Champions. Bosch performed better than NGK in a 1835 air cooled VW. Champions and Autolites are equal in my 308. Results can be different between two engins that are otherwise the same.
Experiment to find what is best for your particular application.
Good luck. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
| | Posted on Friday, February 02, 2001 - 9:09 am: | |
First, I hope you're not doing 6000+ RPM when not at normal operating temps! No EGR stuff on carbed 308s. I'd suspect ignition:
1. Are your points in good shape with the dwell in-spec? Could be as simple as point float due inadequate dwell or weak return springs.
2. Have you checked your rotor phasing lately? Are you using the later (wider) 308QV dist rotor? The original rotor is optimistically narrow so rotor-to-cap phasing is critical.
Just some toughts... |
Frank Scotto
| | Posted on Thursday, February 01, 2001 - 11:40 pm: | |
I think your air correction jets are of the wrong size. What size main, air correction, and which emulsion tube do you have? If the other 2 million variables between carburetion and ignition are correct, I'm certain this is your problem. |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Thursday, February 01, 2001 - 10:15 pm: | |
Miss only occurs at normal operating temps from 6000rpms +.New NGKBPR6EVXkk plugs. new S.P. wires, neew coils, carbs overhauled with perfect idle and performance. Possible EGR valve? Comments please. Very truly, CONFUSED |
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