| Author | Message | ||
| Steve (Steve)
Member Username: Steve Post Number: 394 Registered: 2-2001 |
Just look at the tread pattern and in between the treads you will see some rubber that is a little higher then the bottom of the tread valley.These bars are spaced maybe every foot. When these bars are flush with the tread then the tire is illegal but not unsafe.In fact some folks take a tire knife and remove the bar just so the police can't tell if the tire is illegal. | ||
| Jens Haller (Jh280774)
Member Username: Jh280774 Post Number: 726 Registered: 9-2001 |
Thanks for all the answers! P.Thomas, Might try the "Penny gauge" when having one again!  Steve, About the wear bars: Are these the little triangles you see at the side of the tire? If so when the tire tread is up to this there is absolutely no tread left IMO. So I am a bit sceptical about that. Still front tires look very good but rear ones are a bit worn. Using Bridgestone S-01 Expedia BTW. Con saluti cordialissimi, Jens Haller | ||
| Steve (Steve)
Member Username: Steve Post Number: 393 Registered: 2-2001 |
The answer is 2/32 from the top of the tread to the bottom of the of the tread valley. I assume that all tires have wear bars so if you see the wear bars flush with the tread then the tires are illegal. These bars ar 2/32nds above the tread valley. As far as performance goes a treadless tire has more grip when hot in dry conditions but all hell breaks loose in the rain. | ||
| P. Thomas (Ferrari_fanatic)
Member Username: Ferrari_fanatic Post Number: 323 Registered: 4-2003 |
Mitch, LOL. Yeah after spending $750 on an oil line even a 1 cent "Gauge" may pose a challenge. | ||
| Mitch Alsup (Mitch_alsup)
Member Username: Mitch_alsup Post Number: 708 Registered: 4-2002 |
"If you want a 1 cent gauge," Gee, with all the maintanence on my F355 do you think I can afford one of these gauges? | ||
| P. Thomas (Ferrari_fanatic)
Member Username: Ferrari_fanatic Post Number: 319 Registered: 4-2003 |
Jens, there is a depth gauge you can purchase. Here in the States we have an amazingly rudmentary way to check tire depth (it is 100% accurate). We have a legal tread limit (I forget exactly what it is), but if you take a US penny and place the top of the penny BETWEEN THE LOWEST (most worn treads of the tire), as viewed from the side, if you can see the top of President Lincoln's head, you have legal tread depth. The difference in the outside of the very top of the penny, and the top of Lincoln's head is EXACTLY the minium US legal tread depth. If you want a 1 cent gauge, maybe a fellow F-Chater could send you one! The brakes are controlled by the metering valve (front) and perportioning valve (rear). | ||
| Philip Airey (Pma1010)
Member Username: Pma1010 Post Number: 259 Registered: 7-2002 |
Jens Most brake pad manufacturers will recommend a minimum pad thickness. If you run down to the metal (not that this is what DGS is suggesting), you'll damage the rotors. In my (limited) experience of fixing up my 26 year old 308, rotor wear takes a couple of forms. First a lip can develop towards the outer edge of the rotor where the pads have progressively "eaten" the rotor. You can generally get away with a (=one) LIGHT skim but after that it is new rotor time. The other wear pattern is the one DGS notes. The rotors warp through excessive (and often local) heat and you'll experience a shudder on braking. Mine was pronounced with hard braking until I changed the rotors. HTH Last the other area I found that can problems was the brake "balancing valve" (I am sure someone can correct my use of the term with the right part name). On the 308 it sits up behind the steering rack. The early parts were superceded - I think they prematurely failed. Anyway, the part has an internal valve that grounds when there is a brake imbalance. Mine needed changing. | ||
| DGS (Dgs)
New member Username: Dgs Post Number: 8 Registered: 5-2003 |
Tread depth is simply the height of the tread blocks above the bare tire backing. The closer it gets to zero, the more potential for hydroplaning. When the cords start to show through, it's _really_ bad. ;) New tires will usually result in better performance, not only because of the more sharply defined tread blocks, but because tire technology is improving. If you're using stock brake pads, there should be a wear indicator built in. Where the warning shows up, I'm not sure --- probably on the same light that warns you when your parking brake is on. If you hear metal-on-metal during braking, you're out of pad. If you get pulsations under light braking, you might have rotor issues. A visual inspection can tell you of any unusual scoring or surface defects. You have to spin the rotors to find warping -- or look for those pulsations. In an open and empty parking lot, try taking your hands off the wheel and braking straight ahead. If the car veers to one side, your brake calipers and/or rotors need attention. Also, a tendency for one wheel to lock up under hard braking can indicate an issue with "floating" calipers not floating. Like most things on Italian cars, brake problems tend to show up first in their performance. These cars do talk to you. You just need to learn their language. ;) (I'm sure the experts will jump in to refine and or correct my responses. I've been driving Italians for 25 years, but only four of them in a Ferrari.) | ||
| Jens Haller (Jh280774)
Member Username: Jh280774 Post Number: 722 Registered: 9-2001 |
What is the minimum tire profile you should have to drive safely and how do I measure it? Another question: How do I see that the brake pads and/or the discs have to be replaced? What do I have to look for to see? Pretty stupid questions I agree but I really don�t know exactly!  Con saluti cordialissimi, Jens Haller |