| Author |
Message |
Bill V (Doc)
Member
Username: Doc
Post Number: 346
Registered: 9-2001
| | Posted on Monday, June 02, 2003 - 6:54 am: | |
Ken, as you may recall, I had a similar problem with my car about a year ago, although it wasn't related to engine temp. In attempting to find out what bank wasn't getting spark, I too dc'd a coil wire at a time--and the car should run on one bank only. Until the problem was solved, my car did quite a bit of idling on one bank while trying to dx the problem. In my case, it was a pick-up sensor and ignition wires. |
Craig Nelson (Monza456)
New member
Username: Monza456
Post Number: 16
Registered: 2-2003
| | Posted on Monday, June 02, 2003 - 12:23 am: | |
Ken, Russ is incorrect in saying the car will run rough with a coil not working. A 8 cyl. ferrari (or 12 for that matter) will run perfectly smooth but idle a bit lower when running on one bank. It will rev up perfectly smooth just a little slower. It sounds to me like one of the crank sensors might be bad. If you un-plug the Yellow or green wires to the coils one at a time while the engine is running you can determine if that bank is running. |
Russ Gould (Russ)
New member
Username: Russ
Post Number: 34
Registered: 2-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2003 - 11:28 pm: | |
If the coil was not working the car would be running VERY rough and would probably not idle at all. Also, can't think of a theory why the coil would not work with a cold engine. If you look thru the little holes in the distributor cap (better in the dark) you can see the spark jumping between the rotor and terminals. Spark means coil is working, obviously. Or you could pull one of the plug terminals and see if you have a spark on that bank. Hold it with a proper insulated plug wire tong. If you have rough running for the first ten minutes, that is probably the carbs (or injection system), not the spark. |
Ken Ross (Kdross)
Member
Username: Kdross
Post Number: 366
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2003 - 4:21 pm: | |
OK, I got a reading of 2600-3000 on one coil and 3000-3200 on the other coil when I first started the car and experience low rpm at idle. After 10 minutes or so, the idle returns to normal (1,000 rpm) and both coils read about 4200. Is this normal? Also, is there a common signal shared by both the coils?
Finally, I accidently pull one of the coil wires off when the car was running at idle (the big red one) and the car died. Should the car be able to idle with one of the coil wires disconnected?
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JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member
Username: Jrvall
Post Number: 1655
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2003 - 10:04 am: | |
You can use either one of the coils +plus leads, yellow wires..(not a bad idea to turn on the key and verify with a test light) or like I do, just sit a small motorcycle battery by the tire and use it as + & -...and just hook the pick-up to the coil to cap wire (best for what you're doing) or a plug wire . |
Ken Ross (Kdross)
Member
Username: Kdross
Post Number: 365
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2003 - 9:35 am: | |
I have a Snap-On timing light, but I do not know how to use it. I need to check the coils on my 308QV to see if they are working. I think that one of my coils is not working for the first 10 minutes upon starting the car cold. Where do I attach the red lead for a power source? Thanks. |