| Author | Message | ||
| Frank Parker (Parkerfe)
Advanced Member Username: Parkerfe Post Number: 2612 Registered: 9-2001 |
P.Thomas, I believe marine engines rotate in the opposite direction from auto engines. | ||
| Ali Haas (Aehaas)
New member Username: Aehaas Post Number: 42 Registered: 5-2003 |
What makes Baldwins the best oil filter? aehaas | ||
| Martin - Cavallino Motors (Miami348ts)
Advanced Member Username: Miami348ts Post Number: 4985 Registered: 5-2001 |
Rob, did not read through the whole thing so hope this is not double info: Carefull when you do the pan screw. There is one that look slike the right one but it is NOT. It is not the screw on the bottom of the pan but the one that sits forward on the side of the pan. If you unscrew the other you will open the regulator and the spring and washers will come at you. If you loose the washers/spacers your oil pressure regulator will not work right!!!! VERY CAREFUL HERE!!!! | ||
| Ali Haas (Aehaas)
New member Username: Aehaas Post Number: 39 Registered: 5-2003 |
It is important to point out that a 2W oil at 290 F has a vs of 1 and a 50W oil has a vs of 5. The difference is 4 Centistokes. It is not to say the 50W is 5 times thicker, false. It is only 4 cs thicker, not much in real life. aehaas | ||
| Ali Haas (Aehaas)
New member Username: Aehaas Post Number: 38 Registered: 5-2003 |
Mitch, I do not have my SAE documents at hand so I am guessing. Remember that we are only dealing with the second number. When the engine is hot a 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30 or straight 30W oil have the same viscosity. The only hot data is at 212 F -- 2W is 3 5W is 4 - 5 10W is 5 - 6 20W is 8 - 9 30W is 10 - 11 40W is 13 - 15 50W is 18 - 20 60W is 23 - 24 They are not tested but at 2 temperatures, 104 and 212 F. Any other viscosity relation to a temperature would have to be an educated guess. At 290 F I would guess the viscosities are -- 2W 1 5W 1.5 10W 2 20W 3 30W 3.5 40W 4 50W 5 Note that a viscosity of 0 is relative and not actually zero. It is a function of the scale and method used for measurement. Another example is the F and C scales of temperature. At zero degrees there is no absence of energy. The real and absolute temperature at zero C is actually 273 degrees Kelvin. At zero K there is no molecular movement. On the Celsius scale it is -273 degrees C, -460 F. As I said before, the viscosity differences are minimal at higher temperatures. They are substancial at lower temperatures where most wear and tear occurs. This is why they are using 2W, 5W, 10W and the like in high RPM and high heat formula engines. I hope this helps. aehaas | ||
| Mitch Alsup (Mitch_alsup)
Member Username: Mitch_alsup Post Number: 816 Registered: 4-2002 |
Ali: what would be the viscosities of the following oils be at 290 dF? ..0W30 Mobil 1 ..0W40 Mobil 1 15W50 Mobil 1 | ||
| Ali Haas (Aehaas)
New member Username: Aehaas Post Number: 37 Registered: 5-2003 |
There is only one reason to use a multi viscosity oil, otherwise we can use a single weight oil for everything. Most wear and tear occurs when the oil is cold (104 F). Little wear occurs when hot (212 F). A straight 30W has a viscosity of 100 when cold (104 F) and a viscosity of 10 or 11 when hot (212 F). A mineral multi viscosity oil such as 10W-30 has a vs of 10 when hot and 70 when cold. A synthetic 0-30 Mobil1 product will have a vs of 10 when hot and 50 when cold. Note that the vs is always 10 when hot but the multi oils are much thinner when cold. This minimizes wear and tear when it happens most, when the engine is cold. The purpose of multi viscosity oils is to minimizes wear when the oil is cold (104 F). Also there is easier starting, better power, better fuel economy with a thinner cold engine oil than a thicker one. I will repeat that most synthetic oils are in fact a single weight oil. They are not multi viscosity oils derived with the use of VI improvers. They are single weight oils that act as if they were mineral multi viscosity oils. You CAN have your cake and eat it too. aehaas | ||
| P. Thomas (Ferrari_fanatic)
Member Username: Ferrari_fanatic Post Number: 449 Registered: 4-2003 |
A 5.7 marine gasoline Mercruiser or Volvo Penta is small block Chevy based. They are no different then the street application. "Marine" oils fight the corrosivness of the exposure to water. Automotive oils do not have the same protection. However the load factor is the same as if not harder then tracking your car. Again, just curious, why not a single grade such as in the marine application??? | ||
| P. Thomas (Ferrari_fanatic)
Member Username: Ferrari_fanatic Post Number: 448 Registered: 4-2003 |
I think that is what some are alluding to: Why wouldn't you use a single viscosity then for track use?? | ||
| P. Thomas (Ferrari_fanatic)
Member Username: Ferrari_fanatic Post Number: 447 Registered: 4-2003 |
Aviation (ie, single engine Piper, Cessena, etc) actually run at low RPMs (around 2500 tp 3000). Marine single gasoline engines are propped to max out around 5000 RPMs. | ||
| Ali Haas (Aehaas)
New member Username: Aehaas Post Number: 36 Registered: 5-2003 |
P., I have no specific knowledge about marine, diesel and aviation oils. There is one big difference in marine and aviation engine use. These engines are generally thought to be always on, at full blast or off. The engines run at one temperature, HOT. Due to full loads from the onset they warm up quickly. Single weight mineral oils as 30W will maintain viscosity over time better than the multi weight mineral oils. The additives are consumed with usage and thus are the oils properties. aehaas | ||
| Ali Haas (Aehaas)
New member Username: Aehaas Post Number: 35 Registered: 5-2003 |
Mitch, There are a lot of possibilities. I would not worry about it. I would guess there is thinning from blow by dilution and some wear and tear. Is this synthetic oil? In general, mineral oils have viscosity index improvers and thin over the first few thousand miles then thicken over time. They start out 30W, then go to 20W, then up to 40W about the time it should be replaced. In general, fully synthetic oils do not have any VI improvers. They are a single weight oil. Their properties however, are that of mineral oils with VI mixed in there. The synthetic oils maintain a single viscosity over time. There was a thread somewhere by somebody who analyzed their engine oil ever 1,000 miles in a Camaro. Does anyone know that link. The guy was up to 10,000 miles with essentially no change in viscosity. aehaas | ||
| P. Thomas (Ferrari_fanatic)
Member Username: Ferrari_fanatic Post Number: 446 Registered: 4-2003 |
Ali, >>>At 212 degrees the 0-30 and 10-3- have the same vs, 10, that of a straight 30W in a hot engine.>>> Why is it then that in a marine gasoline engine application they NEVER EVER recommend using a multi-viscosity oil. They always recommend a straight 30W automotive oil (if a marine oil is not available). They never recommend a multi-vs. | ||
| Mitch Alsup (Mitch_alsup)
Member Username: Mitch_alsup Post Number: 800 Registered: 4-2002 |
Ali: I will consider this experiment the next time I change oil (about 3-4 weeks from now). Since you are well informed with respect to oils; can I ask another long winded question: After a new oil and filter change, driving to the track I get 100 PSI at 70 MPH cruise (170 dF oil temp). After a day at the track, driving back home under the same conditions I only get 95 PSI. I have followed this senario many times, and each time day at the track I loose 4-7 PSI of oil pressure (70 MPH cruise 170 dF temp). The oil tends to stay at this reduced pressure until a) another day at the track (when it goes down farther), or b) new oil replaces old oil (and it goes back up). I can put thousands of miles on the street and the oil stays within 1 PSI or so. Then one day at the track with 285+ dF oil temps and the oil never recovers its original presure. Is this normal? Is this a symptom of the filter loading up, or of the oil loosing viscosity? Does this indicate that I should replace the oil more often? e.g. before/after each track event? Does this simply indicate that I am paranoid? | ||
| Ali Haas (Aehaas)
New member Username: Aehaas Post Number: 33 Registered: 5-2003 |
Mitch, Ideally you should use different oils for the track and routine street driving. If you are getting 90 PSI at 4,000 RPM when the temp is 285 F at the track, then you can probably go to the next thinner oil for the track. If you are using xW-50 then go to xW-40. Because their differences are less at higher temperatures you may be able to go to xW-30. X should always be the lowest number possible. 20W-50 is not as good as 10W-50 is not as good as 0W-50, never. You always want the cold oil thickness to be as thin as possible. I will not go into the reasons but use fully synthetics oils always, in high performance engines. This is not because synthetics are better at the same temperature and thickness, false. Mitch, put 0W-30 Mobil 1 in there and give me the pressure at 2,000 and at 4,000 RPM at track temperatures. If the oil is too thin I will let you know and pay you $50 for your trouble. This is inexpensive research. aehaas | ||
| Mitch Alsup (Mitch_alsup)
Member Username: Mitch_alsup Post Number: 798 Registered: 4-2002 |
Ali: I reread both your posts several times. I don't think you addressed the actual question I posed. I am not in any way disagreeing with what you said, but trying to complete my understanding of the whole issue (and especially as it relates to the typical driving cycle of my car.) Senario: Get up at 5:30, drive to race track; arrive at 8:30, drive on track all day; Leave track at 5:00 and drive home. Aparently, the oil that would be perfect for road use is too thin for track use, and the oil that is perfect for track use is too thick for road use. Yes? Well then, with this driving senario, and the previous temps and pressures, what oil would you use? Thinner, or thicker? Or is there no perfect oil for this senario? If there is not 'best' oil for this senario, would you err on the side of too thick or too thin? | ||
| Ali Haas (Aehaas)
New member Username: Aehaas Post Number: 32 Registered: 5-2003 |
Mitch, you made me write more. I will try to simplify my discourse, round/ballpark numbers for eg., biochemists, forgive me. I will use the example of Mobil 1 oil, the 0W-30 (0-30) and the Mobil Drive Clean mineral based oil, the 10W-30 (10-30). Oil viscosity is rated at 2 temperatures, 40 C and 100 C, that is 104 and 212 F. At this point I will only discuss things at degrees F as you have done. In the industry we refer to hot and cold engines. We are only talking about ratings at 104 as cold and 212 as hot. At temperatures like 32 or a comfortable 70, oil is I believe, too thick to measure accurately by the current ASTM method. At 104 degrees the 0-30 has a viscosity ( abbreviated now as - vs ) of 55 and the 10-30 a vs of 70. At 212 degrees the 0-30 and 10-30 have the same vs, 10, that of a straight 30W oil in a hot engine. Ideally oils should only have a single and stable vs, such as 10 at all temperatures. Then we would never have to warm up our engines. We could just get in and go full RPM. A vs of 10 is what the engine needs to operate regardless of the engine temperature. It would always give us the SAME pressure at a given RPM, at ANY temperature. But the world is not perfect! Oil vs changes with temperature. The next breakthrough in engine oil will be the negative (-) 10W-30 or -10W-30. It should have a vs of 30 at 104 degrees and 10 at 212. Note, Mitch, that in theory the lower number is not what is important to a hot engine, just the higher number, the 30. Maybe the day will come when a hot 30W oil is the same when cold. We would call it the -30W-30. The perfect oil with a constant vs of 10 at all temperatures. Let me make this more complicated for you. Let me add Mobil1 0W-20 into the discussion. At 104 degrees the vs is 40 and at 212 it is 8.5. Remember that the other two oils have a vs of 10 at 212 degrees. Let us warm all of these oils to 250 degrees. I estimate the 0-30 and 10-30 to have a vs of 5 at this temperature and the 0-20 to have a vs of 4.5. As you can see the vs difference at very high temperatures is minimal between different oils weights. At lower temperatures the difference is substantial. That is why they say there is so much engine wear at low (104) temperature ranges. Incidentally, Formula and high revving stock car engines are running 2W, 5W, 10W oils, not 50W, 60W and 70W oils as many claim is best for their engines on this and other threads. The basic requirement for gasoline engines is 10 PSI for every 1000 RPM, read my first post again. You do not want more or less. It does not matter where you live or what the outside temperature is. The altitude does not matter. The only consideration is the correct pressure under those conditions you drive. Change the oil to meet the condition. One oil for the track and one for around town. Use the vs that gives you the right pressure. It may be 10W, 20W, 50W or some mutiviscosity type since you are trying to stretch out varying conditions. Conclusion. I am using 0W-30 Mobil 1 in my new 575 Maranello and getting 70-80 PSI at 2,000 RPM while driving around town and the next oil change, soon, will be the 0W-20 Mobil 1. There will be little difference in the pressure but it will at least be a little less. Less pressure translates to more cooling and more lubrication due to more oil flow. There will be easier starting, less battery strain, cooler engine compartment et cetera. All of this is my opinion. This is very superficial. aehaas | ||
| J Haller (Jh355)
New member Username: Jh355 Post Number: 14 Registered: 6-2003 |
Dave, Your wealth of knowledge never ceases to amaze me. You my friend are a walking enclosed. Thanks for the post JH | ||
| Mitch Alsup (Mitch_alsup)
Member Username: Mitch_alsup Post Number: 793 Registered: 4-2002 |
Let me add one more data points and then revist the question: Durring a run on the track, oil temperature goes up towards 285 dF, and oil pressure stabilizes at 85-90 PSI (RPMs between 4,000 and 8,500). On the road oil temp is generally 200 dF at 45 MPH and below, 190 dF at 60 MPH, 175 dF at 80 MPH, with 95-105 PSI above 3,000 RPMs. At the end of a session on the track, I shift into 6th gear for the cool off lap, running 2,x00 RPMs the oil pressure is 45 PSI; while the normal road pressure on that same oil at the same RPMs is 80-85 PSI. Idle after a cool down lap (oil temp 240 dF) oil pressure is 30-35 PSI, while it is 60 PSI after a run down the road (i.e. fully warnmed up). Is this oil too thick, or not thick enough? | ||
| david handa (Davehanda)
Intermediate Member Username: Davehanda Post Number: 1047 Registered: 5-2001 |
John Haller, Valvoline also makes a 5w-40 synthetic thay may be what you are looking for. I have also used this in my 308 and my current 328. Basically, I only use sythetics, and buy whatever is on sale, in the appropriate weight. I have little brand loyalty, and shop basically on price, figuring that all the major brands synthetic products are so far and away superior to dino oil, that it is hard to make a bad choice. | ||
| david handa (Davehanda)
Intermediate Member Username: Davehanda Post Number: 1046 Registered: 5-2001 |
BTW, the Rotella T products are designed for truck applications (hence the T diesel and gas. But they note on the bottle it exceeds all gasoline specification to API SL, and is fine for passenger cars. | ||
| david handa (Davehanda)
Intermediate Member Username: Davehanda Post Number: 1045 Registered: 5-2001 |
Guys, I was the poster on the Shell Rotella T sythetic comment. They ARE different products, and if you surf the Shell websites, you'll see the specs are slightly different. BUT, three years ago FNA had difficulty with adequate supplies of Shell Helix and I KNOW many 355 and 360 owners where getting the Rotella T synthetic product put in their cars at FNA dealers. So the difference may not be a huge deal... Just rememberm there are two different Rotella T products, one is dino oil, the other is synthetic.d But the risk is entirely yours, I make no claims to compatibility. I know many owners on Ferrarilist use Mobil 1 in their 355/360's. | ||
| J Haller (Jh355)
New member Username: Jh355 Post Number: 13 Registered: 6-2003 |
J, I wonder how it compares to Helix. Helix could just be a marketing ploy to suck $ from us big dollar car guys (they know we will pay if it�s packaged right). Could take a sample of both to the oil testing place and have a chemical makeup and performance brake down test performed. NC Machine will do this for $30.00 a bottle. Might be surprised with the results? | ||
| Jonathan Garrett Donner (Jgd)
Junior Member Username: Jgd Post Number: 91 Registered: 2-2003 |
Yep J, I agree, I love Ferrari Chat. By the way I found this in another thread "Right now, you can get one gallon (four quarts)jugs of Shell Rotella T full synthetic oil in 5w-40 on sale for $12.89 each at Walmart ($3.25 quart). Just changed my oil with it tonight for the 2nd consecutive time (3k change intervals), with no problems, works fine." | ||
| J Haller (Jh355)
New member Username: Jh355 Post Number: 12 Registered: 6-2003 |
J, Two states to the North average temp is 55ish. Highs in the summer are never over 85 for no more than 3 days in August. It sounds like we are both right for our different situations. That�s why this forum is so great. We can get honest real world opinions from guys who have been there done that. Best JH | ||
| Jonathan Garrett Donner (Jgd)
Junior Member Username: Jgd Post Number: 89 Registered: 2-2003 |
J, Totaly understand you position, If you do not track the car at all I agree with Ali, Go with the 0-40 Mobil 1, For me it was just a little to thin as It gets pretty hot here in So Cal and I drive my car reasonably hard (but safely) on the street as well as the track. | ||
| J Haller (Jh355)
New member Username: Jh355 Post Number: 11 Registered: 6-2003 |
Thanks Jonathan and Ali What the manufacture states and what works in practice (USA) are two very different things concerning this issue. It gives me satisfaction to know you guys have street / track success with the Mobil 1 brand. I still feel uncomfortable with the 15 weight as our climate is a bit colder then perhaps yours is, I will search for lighter weight oil for the next oil change mostly for my comfort. Tom, Ferrari knows what�s best for the car? I believe what�s best for the car is who sponsors Ferrari�s F1 team (SHELL). Who really sponsors their team, guys who pay $17.00 per quart for a $3.00 per quart oil? THAT�S HOW IT WORKS. No competition = monopoly. Monopoly = big money. | ||
| Tom Bakowsky (Tbakowsky)
Member Username: Tbakowsky Post Number: 444 Registered: 9-2002 |
Well I guess you could go to the next grade that is available. Maybe a 10w/50 or even maybe a 5w/50. I'm not attacking you so don't get offended. Your are running deisel grade oil in your car. Deisel engines need the thicker oil for varoius reasons one being detergent to clean a dirty running engine. You need a thicker oil in 2 stroke engines and Lawn mowers etc. Your Ferrari will run better and be faster with a thinner grade oil than what your are putting in. Like Ali said in his post. You could be doing more harm than good by running that oil. Just MHO. | ||
| Mitch Alsup (Mitch_alsup)
Member Username: Mitch_alsup Post Number: 784 Registered: 4-2002 |
"Whats wrong with sticking to the manufactuers suggested oil grade?" OK, then pray tell, where does one buy 10W40 synthetic today? While I basically agree that xW50 may be too heavy for the street, and 0Wxx may be too thin for the track; what is one to do when 20% of the cars millage is accumulating on the track, but none of the cold starts is anywhere near the track? | ||
| Tom Bakowsky (Tbakowsky)
Member Username: Tbakowsky Post Number: 440 Registered: 9-2002 |
Whats wrong with sticking to the manufactuers suggested oil grade? I think Ferrari, or anyother manufacturer knows whats best for their cars in all around conditions. IMHO think 15-50 is to heavy, and could lead to excessive engine wear on cold starts, and could possiably lead to premature gasket and seal failure due to the extra amount of pressure the heavier oil will cause until it has warmed up enough. I have stuck with the manufactures oil specs in all my cars and have never had a problem. My M-benz has almost 400,000km on the clock and the engine has never been apart. I never put anything in then what M-benz recommends, and it has paid off. | ||
| Jonathan Garrett Donner (Jgd)
Junior Member Username: Jgd Post Number: 88 Registered: 2-2003 |
JHaller,Everything you have said is correct, Allow the car a little extra warm up time,(I start mine and leave it sit running until the water and oil temp guages come up) and pressure will be up. I run the 15-50 on street and track and love it. | ||
| Ali Haas (Aehaas)
New member Username: Aehaas Post Number: 31 Registered: 5-2003 |
There are many oil misconceptions outstanding. The biggest one is that thicker oil is better. False. Higher speed turbines use thinner oil. Lubrication is not what you feel rubbing that oil between your fingers. Lubrication in engines is oil FLOW between moving parts. The general saying that 90 percent of engine wear and tear occurs in cold engines is close to the truth. The most basic viscosity needs are defined by a pressure of 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM at operating temperature. My 575 M manual states the target pressure is 74 PSI at 6,000 RPM. The oil supplied with the car gives me about 80 PSI at 2,000 RPM, way too high. This is with around the town driving. I am sure that on the racetrack at full power and a hotter engine this thicker oil is fine. For my usual driving however, the thicker oil is causing more engine wear. The manual of my old 550 Maranello gave only Shell Helix Ultra 5-40 for all uses. Oils are not that versatile. For around town use a thin oil, for the track use a thicker one. The new 575 manual states that the oil should be 15-50 for racing and 0-40 for around town. They are finally making more sense. Oils are getting thinner. Ford now supplies most cars with 5 - 20 oil, previously it was 5 - 30. If you test different oils in your engine you will notice the engine oil temperature decreasing with thinner oils. At some point the next thinner oil will result in the engine temperature starting to go back up. This lowest temperature point is that with the least friction. A friend recently changed from Mobil 1 15-50 in his big SUV to Pennzoil 5-20 and went from 10 to 13 MPG around town. There was a slight decrease in engine oil temperature. The savings was also in cost for oil. His biggest enjoyment was the increase in get up and go power. For time trials all Indy and Stock cars use thinner oils to get more power. These oils will not stay thick enough for a long hot race but around the town driving is nothing like racing. The last misconception I will tell you about is that those oil viscosity numbers on that oil can are not what you think at all. For example, Pennzoil 100W EP gear oil is almost the exact same thickness as straight 30W engine oil. The additives are different. 10-30 Mobil 1 is thicker with a cold engine than 0-30 Mobil 1 but the 0-30 is actually thicker than the 10-30 with a hot engine. If you need a thicker oil with your hot engine the 0-30 is better than the 10-30 Mobil 1. I am using 5-20 Pennzoil in my V12 Mercedes sedan and V12 SL coupe. I use it in my Expedition as well. When I get to 1,000 miles on the 575 M I will change the oil to a thinner one and work my way down. I used 5-20 in my 550 Maranello around town. By the oil pressures I could have gone thinner yet. The recommended 5-40 for that car was only good for high speed racing in summer heat at Orlando Florida. Otherwise it was way too thick, increased engine wear, decreased power and gas mileage. All Mobil 1 oil viscosities are lower than other brands with the same rating such as 10W-30. The oil is thinner and I think this contributes to the engine longevity they are claiming. Also, a thinner oil will make starting easier, the starter motor works less, lasts longer. Same for the battery. The lower temp under the hood increases the life of rubber and plastic parts. The list goes on. Mr Willis said that the shear ratings were higher for synthetic lubes. I cannot find any data to support this. The high temperature shear ratings for Pennzoil mineral oil 5W30 is 3.1 and the Synthetic Pennzoil 5W-30 is 3.05. For Castrol the numbers are 3.1 for the GTX mineral and 2.92 for the full Syntec. These numbers indicate that mineral based oils have better shear protection than the synthetic. The above is my opinion based on years of research and data collection, speaking with people at SAE and individual oil companies chemists to mention a few. aehaas | ||
| J Haller (Jh355)
New member Username: Jh355 Post Number: 9 Registered: 6-2003 |
Jonathan The oil was changed 2 week ago in my 355. I was a little hesitant to use the 15-50 Mobile products because of the high 15 number, but couldn�t find anything lower at the time, and wasn�t willing to fork out $17.00 for Shell. I have also heard the only difference between the Mobil synthetic products is the packaging. The only noticeable difference is the oil pressure runs maybe 15psi higher than before. I therefore let the car warm up for a little longer than previously. What is your experience with the Mobil 15-50 product and have you experienced similar results? Could you shed some light on track vs. street use of this product? Thanks in advance. JH | ||
| Jonathan Garrett Donner (Jgd)
Junior Member Username: Jgd Post Number: 86 Registered: 2-2003 |
15-50 Mobile 1 I run it in My 355, I track my car 3x per month and change the oil after every 2 track days. | ||
| J R K (Kenyon)
Member Username: Kenyon Post Number: 397 Registered: 10-2002 |
Shell Helix Ultra 10W-60 can be purchased from any Ferrari dealer or, failing that, if you call 0800 683 683 you will be put through to the nearest Shell Direct distributor to your geographical area. If we can be of further assistance please contact us by reply. Best regards, James Halligan Business & Technical Assistance Shell U.K. Oil Products Limited Rowlandsway House, Rowlandsway, Manchester M22 5SB, United Kingdom Tel: +44 8708 500151 Fax: +44 8708 500932 Email: [email protected] Internet: http://www.shell.com/uk | ||
| J R K (Kenyon)
Member Username: Kenyon Post Number: 372 Registered: 10-2002 |
Where can you by Shell Helix Ultra Racing 10w-60 in the United Kingdom ? I know the new Enzo uses this oil. | ||
| J R K (Kenyon)
Member Username: Kenyon Post Number: 371 Registered: 10-2002 |
Where can you by Shell Helix Ultra Racing 10x-60 in the United Kingdom ? I know the new Enzo uses this oil. | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 1858 Registered: 1-2001 |
Rob -- Try checking a 355 OM. I'm not sure the 355 OMs are the same, but in both the 308 and TR OMs they list the "prescribed/recommended" oil filter brand/part numbers in the "engine lubrication" section. | ||
| Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Board Administrator Username: Rob328gts Post Number: 5233 Registered: 12-2000 |
The 355 filter Norwoods had were the Purflex, it says they are made for Ferrari, so are these the OEM filters? | ||
| "The Don" (Mlemus)
Senior Member Username: Mlemus Post Number: 5194 Registered: 8-2002 |
Baldwins are the Best | ||
| Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Board Administrator Username: Rob328gts Post Number: 5222 Registered: 12-2000 |
What's the stock dealer filter? Would a Baldwin be OK? Norwoods says they're a really good oil filter. | ||
| "The Don" (Mlemus)
Senior Member Username: Mlemus Post Number: 5120 Registered: 8-2002 |
Rob, It's better to remove the panels so you can get a good look under the car. M | ||
| "The Don" (Mlemus)
Senior Member Username: Mlemus Post Number: 5119 Registered: 8-2002 |
FYI - Bill's 355 is the only one that does not have the 12mm drain plug.  ALL FERRARI'S HAVE A 12MM ALLAN KEY ENGINE BLOCK DRAIN PLUG. THe stump uses a socket but I forgot what size. | ||
| Frank K Lipinski (Kaz)
Member Username: Kaz Post Number: 319 Registered: 11-2002 |
 Hey Rob - Yeah, that's from my post on my first oil change. My car (97) is 12mm...for sure... Used Rhino Ramps, worked great. Switched from Helix 5-30 to Mobil-1 15-50 Filter - from dealer. BTW-I used a normal hex wrench, but was at a local independent and saw him use a socket hex and becuase the socket is smaller in overall dims, he was able to drain the oil without pulling the diffusers / panels. I still prefer to pull them.. | ||
| Dave (Maranelloman)
Intermediate Member Username: Maranelloman Post Number: 1769 Registered: 1-2002 |
Rob, My $0.02 is that, with summer Texas temperatures upon us, I would go with 20-50. Come fall, perhaps go to 15-50 or 10-60, if you envision driving in really cool weather. | ||
| Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Board Administrator Username: Rob328gts Post Number: 5153 Registered: 12-2000 |
So should I just go with Mobil One 20w-50 or should I do 15w-50 or even find a 10w-60? | ||
| Mitch Alsup (Mitch_alsup)
Member Username: Mitch_alsup Post Number: 726 Registered: 4-2002 |
B) just get in there and undo a bunch of bolts and try not to loose any of the washers. Remove diffusers first, then the engine bay pannel. You may have some reear brake cooling piping on a challenge car to deal with. C) the oil tank is where most of the oil is kept, the oil sump has the rest of it. Opening both allows the entire batch to drain away. Be sure to have the car warm/hot to speed the oils drain period. D) as far as oil goes, as long as you stay synthetic, and have a high enough hot viscosity to maintain hot pressure, and low enough cold viscosity so that the thing starts, almost any oil will do. This goes especially well considering the 1/2 weekends per change a challenge car gets. I like Mobil 1, RedLine and AMSoil. The smaller the spread between cold viscosity and hot viscosity, the less polymers have been added, and the more stable the oil is at high pressures/loads. | ||
| P. Thomas (Ferrari_fanatic)
Member Username: Ferrari_fanatic Post Number: 338 Registered: 4-2003 |
Rob, in one of the threads several weeks ago, someone posted that they knew where to get Shell Helix (other than the dealer). I directly asked him where, and he never responded. Another F-Chat memebr asked as well and he did not respond. My conclusion: That was bad info. and to the very best of everyone's knowledge it is Dealer only. | ||
| Dave (Maranelloman)
Intermediate Member Username: Maranelloman Post Number: 1762 Registered: 1-2002 |
Rob, I am pretty sure you can use some other oil besides Helix 10-60, eh? What about Mobil 1 20-50 or Royal Purple 15-50? | ||
| Rob Lay (Rob328gts)
Board Administrator Username: Rob328gts Post Number: 5146 Registered: 12-2000 |
I know we have done this before, but still want to be 100% sure. Here's the best info I got from the archives that Tom Bakowsky posted...
Now for my remaining questions... A) The oil plug is 12 MM? There was a big debate, but I believe the answer from Don is it's 12 MM. B) Anything tricky about removing the diffusers and panel to access the oil pan? Special tools? C) 22 mm nut the best way to drain the oil tank? So there's two places to drain because it's a dry sump or why? D) Anyone know where I can buy Shell Helix 10w-60 besides the dealer? Couldn't find anywhere on the internet. E) Good source for 355 filters? Anyone know the stock brand and part number? Thanks, Rob "355 Rookie" Lay |