| Author |
Message |
DGS (Dgs)
New member
Username: Dgs
Post Number: 19
Registered: 5-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, June 07, 2003 - 10:22 am: | |
The "down/up" syndrome is common when the door's sensor thinks the door isn't closed.
My 88 (pre 88.5) has bi-directional door locking (either door locks both) by key.
The passenger door keeps thinking it's open after a drive over "the roadway formerly known as paved". ;^)
I sometimes have to open and close the door to get the lock to stay locked. In winter, I often have to push on the door near the latch to get the sensor to register.
I presume that some kind of adjustment or contact cleaning would fix this, but I haven't gotten around to fiddling with it, and the shops that did the services on the car never got 'round tuit' either.
VZ: I've had problems with the latch fully engaging on my driver's door when it gets really cold out (below freezing). I've found that lubricating the mechanism with graphite lock lube fixes the issue for about a year.
Graphite lube has been fairly handy on most of my Italian cars over the last 30 years. It comes as graphite in an alcohol base to aid in application -- and it's getting hard to find, lately. Autozone doesn't have any, but you might try Ace Hardware. Be sure to have plenty of kleenex or paper towels to wipe up the run-off. ;^)
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V.Z. (Ama328)
Junior Member
Username: Ama328
Post Number: 139
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, June 07, 2003 - 9:28 am: | |
in my late 328 the locking mechanism is pretty flaky, too. Occasionally, it does the up/down routine; usually, another try with key in door does it.
Also have a problem if much water gets inside the driver's door(typically from washing the car); couple hours later, the mechanism changes and the door latch won't engage fully when closing the door. Have to let it dry out, then it's fine. SO, if washing the car, i put some tape along the outside bottom portion of the window sill and a chunk of tape over the rectangular door handle, and that does the trick.
WAY over complicated door mechanism on these things, kinda wish they'd stayed away from electric locks, etc. and just made it simple, but reliable. |
Kurt Kjelgaard (Kurtk328)
Junior Member
Username: Kurtk328
Post Number: 201
Registered: 3-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2003 - 4:24 am: | |
As the car originally had no alarm, it must have been retrofitted.
Which make of alarm, and what year car?
Later cars have a biderectional communicating locking system, whereas on earlier (pre 88� I believe) cars, only the drivers door can lock the other not and not the opposite.
Apparently the locking system is working properly, it is the alarm part of it not functioning.
Are the original actuators still in the car or have they been replaced with alarm specific ones?
Or are the original actuators still there and supplemented with alarm specific ones?
Anyway, locking actuators that can't decide where to go can usually be fixed by adjusting the rod between the actuator and lock.
This requires you to take off the doorliner.
Provided you have the required tools, this is a quite easy task.
Keep us informed. |
lee randle (Leer)
New member
Username: Leer
Post Number: 4
Registered: 5-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2003 - 2:55 am: | |
The doors on my 328 are not locking after I press the alarm remote control for the central locking. I assume it could be either the motor or actuater not working properly ? It seems the door knobs get pulled down by the motor but will not stay down, and then keep going back up and down until i hit thre remote control button again. Therefore at the moment I have to lock the doors using the key and then alarm the car.
Can anyone please advise on best course of action and the cost of parts and whether its an easy DIY job ?
Any advice would be appreciated.
regards,
Lee |
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