| Author | Message | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 805 Registered: 8-2001 |
James: Yes.......it should not be necessary to remove any of the gear house assembly. Actually JRV told me this, however, being the eager beaver that I am, I proceeded before reading his post......should have waited a couple of hours!!!!!! The clutch shaft stays with the bell housing since it is supported by the ring nut and throw-out bearing sleeve. The trans shaft is supported by the other ring nut, whereas the other end slides over the splined main shaft within the trans. If you have the Boxer BB parts book, look at TAV. 18......think of the lower picture as one unit. This all assumes that you have an alignment tool for the clutch......I don't, hence, I will use the clutch shaft, on re-assembly. Now I just have to find that kick starter.....HAHA | ||
| James Selevan (Jselevan)
Member Username: Jselevan Post Number: 586 Registered: 6-2002 |
Henry - did you suggest that you could remove the bell housing without opening up the transfer gear case? This is of interest to me, as I am soon to do my clutch. Thank you. Jim S. | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 804 Registered: 8-2001 |
Thanks guys. Well everything is out.......have to get a puller for the bearing. Note: I had to remove the timing mark clip, so that the flywheel was able to be removed. I re-assembled the clutch on the ground, and now have to decide whether to get a stock clutch, or have a carbon one made by Tilton. Decisions, decisions............. | ||
| James Selevan (Jselevan)
Member Username: Jselevan Post Number: 585 Registered: 6-2002 |
Henry - read previous post. This image is darker and easier to read. Enjoy. Jim S.  | ||
| James Selevan (Jselevan)
Member Username: Jselevan Post Number: 584 Registered: 6-2002 |
Henry - my 365 BB Workshop manual states - "Flywheel-to-crankshaft bolts - 3.1 KG". See below. Jim S.  | ||
| James J. McGee (Dr_ferrari)
Junior Member Username: Dr_ferrari Post Number: 102 Registered: 7-2002 |
Henry, You are right, bearing is worn. A very small slide hammer works great for removing that bearing (special tool but you can get most anywhere). Flywheel bolts can be reused using a very,very small dot of red loctite when installing. will post the torque tomorrow when I get to the shop.(don`t recall exact number) Best regards, Jim | ||
| David Feinberg (Fastradio2)
Junior Member Username: Fastradio2 Post Number: 220 Registered: 4-2002 |
Henry, The clutch pilot bearing comes out very easily with a generic slide hammer, using an inside bearing claw adapter... The flywheel bolts are not of the stretch type..and can be re-used. I don't know the torque spec, as the manuals are at the machine shop. I usually put a dad of locktight "red" of the bolt, just to be safe. Regards, David | ||
| Henryk (Henryk)
Member Username: Henryk Post Number: 803 Registered: 8-2001 |
Just removed the flywheel. The clutch shaft bearing is inside the crank.......it is very notchy when rotating the inside portion......I feel this is not right. How do I get it out.......special tool? Also, are the flywheel bolts of the "stretch" type, where they can't be re-used.......or can I use the same bolts? What should they be torqued to? Thanks |