| Author | Message | ||
| Andrew-Phillip Goalen (Andrewg)
Junior Member Username: Andrewg Post Number: 71 Registered: 9-2002 |
James try croftgate in rochdale, they supply MB BMW and Bentley Jaguar etc, have used their kits to do my 400 and can't fault it, not affiliated but have tried both Leatherique and croftage and found croftgate far far better, www.croftgate.com | ||
| Mike Charness (Mcharness)
Member Username: Mcharness Post Number: 645 Registered: 8-2002 |
James, yes. Go to www.Leatherique.com and they'll have info about product in Europe... apparently their distributor there is www.leathermotive.com | ||
| James Shand (Jrs)
New member Username: Jrs Post Number: 2 Registered: 6-2003 |
Hi - I am new to the board. Is there a UK or Euro source for Leatherique products ? | ||
| bernie dennison (Bernied)
New member Username: Bernied Post Number: 27 Registered: 6-2001 |
Steve, I have used Color-Plus. I did the interior in a 328. The people at Color-Plus were very nice to work with and if you ask they will send a technique guide. Their color matched the tan of the 328 very well. I'm satisfied. bernie | ||
| mike 308 (Concorde)
Junior Member Username: Concorde Post Number: 229 Registered: 8-2002 |
With all the positives about Leatherique, and the fact that they support the Ferrari club members with product discounts, why mess with anything else? Not that Color-Plus might not be just fine... And there's more to Leatherique than just the dye. There's also the Rejuvinator Oil and their Prestine Clean. | ||
| Stephen E. Schroeder (Seschroeder)
Junior Member Username: Seschroeder Post Number: 53 Registered: 4-2002 |
Thsi may be a wee bit off the subject but there is a company by the name of Color-Plus (www.Color-Plus.com in Milford, PA) that produces dyes similiar to Leatherique. I curious if any one has tried their products. Seemed very nice on the phone when I rang them up. Steve Schroeder | ||
| Collin Hays (Chaysintexas)
Junior Member Username: Chaysintexas Post Number: 131 Registered: 4-2002 |
Wade, be sure and let me know the results that you have from the bare hand approach. I did one seat in about 45 minutes and I swear it's a perfect as can be. And I'm particular. I will be curious to know how it works out for you. | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member Username: Verell Post Number: 847 Registered: 5-2001 |
Wade, Take a look at the close-up of my seat in this earlier thread. Then seriously consider using a staining pad instead of your hands. It holds just enough dye to put on a nice smooth coat. http://www.ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/256120/134850.html In it is a pointer to Mike Charness's excellent how-to-redye-your-ferrari's-leather-seats article that is strongly recommended reading before you start... Several of us were doing redyes at the same time, so the thread ended up witn lots of fine tips that got noted while things were fresh in our minds from doing them. In particular Kelly joined-in as he was redoing his seats shortly after I finished mine. | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 1512 Registered: 4-2002 |
Slightly O/T: Has anyone else noticed a difference in the shade of black on the seats and door panels? Or is this just a GT4 thing? I have touched up spots on both my seats and door panels. Seats gave a perfect match, but the spot on the door was an off shade. You can't tell that the doors and seats are different just by looking, so the difference is real subtle. The black Leatherique dye looked reddish on the doors. Tandy Leather black looked bluish. And, no, I don't think I can send them a sample, as there is no extra inside the panels to trim off. Ideas? | ||
| Robert Davis (H2oquick)
Junior Member Username: H2oquick Post Number: 241 Registered: 8-2001 |
I am just finishing mine up...I used a touch-up gun...reduced the leatherique a little more than suggested. Covered it in 2 to 3 light coats (do not over dye, too much dye makes it scratch easier and has a rougher texture) It came out perfect...gave it about 3 days buffed and then used the pristine clean...door panels and console are slick and even...look as new. | ||
| Wade Nunez(FortuneMotors) (308nut)
Junior Member Username: 308nut Post Number: 236 Registered: 7-2002 |
Colin I just finished a redye on an 83 with tan, and used my hands for the prepping agent and the pristine clean, but used a small acrylic brush for appling the dye it came out awsomme , however it took 2 days to apply the dye because the only brush that would work was a 1/4 inch brush. I am beginning to start an 84 also and will try using my hands for the application, it has got to be quicker than that 1/4 inch brush. All in all the re dye looks great but anyway to make it easier I am all for. I usually do about 1 every two months and really try to follow the original craftsmens methods but sometimes seems difficult. Wade www.fortunemotors.com www.308qvregister.com | ||
| Collin Hays (Chaysintexas)
Junior Member Username: Chaysintexas Post Number: 129 Registered: 4-2002 |
I'm telling you guys, use your BARE HAND. You can't duplicate the results - I've tried already. | ||
| Vasilis K. (Goyal99)
New member Username: Goyal99 Post Number: 22 Registered: 3-2002 |
I used a bottled black leather-dye, which comes with an sponge applicator tip, from K-Mart for $3...It's mainly to re-dye leather shoes but it works great for anything leather! It's not a polish - it's a leather dye! It can be used right out of the bottle with the applicator tip (no mess) and it spreads evenly...It dries fast...I used 2-3 thin layers on my leather seats and they look as good as new. VK | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member Username: Verell Post Number: 844 Registered: 5-2001 |
Brad, Unlike a regular sponge, a 'staining sponge' does not leave any 'brush' marks. You want to get it to where it's completely damp with the dye, but not soaking. Just wipe it over the surface. It will leave a very uniform, very thin translucent layer of dye. It will take 2-3 layers before there's enough dye build-up for the color to become distinct & start looking opaque. Another 2-3 layers & you're done. This sounds like it takes a long time, but it really doesn't. Because the layers are thin, they flash dry very quickly. By the time you've finished with the 2nd seat, the 1st seat is dry enough for the next coat. The dye goes a long ways. I put about 4 oz of dye in a plastic 'touch-up' bottle, & whenever my sponge started to feel dry, I just tipped the bottle upside down against the sponge a couple of times, then squeezed the sponge to distribute it within the sponge. I think I refilled the bottle once. When I'd finished both seats, I still had about an ounce of dye in the bottle. My main dye bottle is still 2/3 full! | ||
| Brad Smith (Smithbb)
New member Username: Smithbb Post Number: 34 Registered: 1-2003 |
Question? Would using a chamois to apply the die make sense? Seems the skin should offer a "brushless" effect while allowing a uniform color application. Any feedback? | ||
| V.Z. (Ama328)
Junior Member Username: Ama328 Post Number: 153 Registered: 11-2002 |
i would think that instead of using bare hands with a funky color(wild red, for instance, that would *really* make your hands look nifty), that maybe sumpin' like thin latex surgical gloves might do the trick - smooth, sensitive, fit tightly, but no coloring of your hands. Hope your interior isn't colored glow-in-the-dark orange  | ||
| James J. McGee (Dr_ferrari)
Junior Member Username: Dr_ferrari Post Number: 107 Registered: 7-2002 |
FYI... Another way to apply dye for smaller areas is by patting the dye on with a sponge. believe it or not, it works and blends in well. Also, the air brush works well in larger areas. Use a heat gun on low to dry. Best regards, Jim | ||
| Eric Eiland (Eric308gtsiqv)
Member Username: Eric308gtsiqv Post Number: 883 Registered: 11-2001 |
Lloyd...same here...I used a hobby airbrush as well and it worked great. Used a white cotton T-shirt to apply the dye in hard to reach areas, and used foam women's "make-up" wedges to trim out the edges. | ||
| Lloyd (Lloyd)
Junior Member Username: Lloyd Post Number: 102 Registered: 8-2001 |
I recently did a leather Ferrari sport seat using a rag to apply Leatherique dye and had to be very careful to avoid streaking. When I decided to repair a scratch on my door panel, I decided to do the entire door panel. I removed the panel and cleaned off the old dye. I bought a $20.00 Testors airbrush and $6.00 can of propellant from Hobby Lobby. I did not want to buy an expensive rig as I was not sure whether it would work. I had never used an airbrush before and had no training or instructions on its use other than the minimal instructions that came with the airbrush. This was the cheapest airbrush I could find and it worked great. Loaded up dye into airbrush jar and diluted with about 1/4 of water. I used a large cardboard box to test the spray pattern and get familiar with the adjustments. You can adjust the spray pattern which also adjusts the amount of dye that is applied. I adjusted it to come out very thin at the beginning to become comfortable with the procedure. It left no streaks and was easy to do. I suggest you give it a shot as there is not much $$ to lose and if you don't like the results you can redo. The only caveat is that I would remove anything I was painting from the car prior to spraying so as to avoid any potential overspray issues. | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member Username: Verell Post Number: 840 Registered: 5-2001 |
When I redyed, I used a terry cloth covered sponge from TrueValue. It's called a 'staining pad' & is sold for applying wood stain, wax, etc. I started using a 1/4" wide hobby/artist's camel's hair brush to do the rolled trim & get down into the seams. A brush is hard to beat for the trim. Once I had the trim done, I put about 3 oz of dye in a plastic 'touch-up' bottle, and worked dye into the sponge until it was good & moist. Then just spread away. I was working in 95 degree weather w/a mild breeze & almost no humidity. The dye wanted to dry almost as soon as I'd spread a thin film on. I kept a spray bottle with me, & anytime something didn't go right, I'd give it a thin mist of water & smooth it out again with the sponge. Really went quick & easy. By the time I'd gone over the back & bottom of one of the seats, the other seat was dry & ready for the next coat. So far the dye is holding up fine. Scuffed it in a couple of places with a cardboard box. Just a bit of dye on a sponge & it was back to new! I used nitrile gloves, so clean-up was just peeling them off. | ||
| Stephen E. Schroeder (Seschroeder)
Junior Member Username: Seschroeder Post Number: 52 Registered: 4-2002 |
I agree - I had NO SUCCESS with Leatherique and a brush. Hand rubbed with a diaper dripped in the Leatherique thined with a wee bit of hot water. Great results then. | ||
| Tazio Nuvolari (Nuvolari)
Junior Member Username: Nuvolari Post Number: 234 Registered: 9-2002 |
I recently Leatheriqued my 77 308 seats. The black inserts (I have tan seats) were masked off using 'easy release' masking tape. You can get this at any paint shop or home improvement place. Just ask for masking tape that you can use on painted walls. The black stripes on the seats are stiched about 2-3mm from their edge. There is plenty of room here to wrap the tape around the edge of the stripe and tuck it underneath. Use plastic or wood tools here to avoid damaging anything. A plastic non-toothed knife works really well for this job. BTW the black stripes are made of vinyl and not leather so there is no risk of 'peeling' off their colour with tape. | ||
| Collin Hays (Chaysintexas)
Junior Member Username: Chaysintexas Post Number: 124 Registered: 4-2002 |
Don: THAT'S going to be a challenge. Masking is going to be very tricky at best. Plus, I've found that the adhesive from tape takes dye right off. I actually used some tape to "pull" dye off my seats in stubborn places. I'm sure you get where I'm going with this. Honestly, I'm befuddled as to how to skin this cat. Hope other posters have ideas. | ||
| Collin Hays (Chaysintexas)
Junior Member Username: Chaysintexas Post Number: 123 Registered: 4-2002 |
Weather that is safe? Explain a little further... | ||
| Don Norton (Litig8r)
Junior Member Username: Litig8r Post Number: 165 Registered: 6-2001 |
I'm in the renewal stage of the leatherique process and will probably re-dye over the winter. My question is how do you guys deal with the contrasting inserts on the 308 seats? Collin's might not have had these, but the cars around my year (1978) do. I have tan leather seats with black leather inserts. How do you avoid getting the tan dye on the inserts? Masking? Thanks. | ||
| Barney Guzzo (Trinacria)
Member Username: Trinacria Post Number: 279 Registered: 8-2002 |
I am doing this in a few weeks myself. My only concern is weather that is safe. Anyone? | ||
| Eric Eiland (Eric308gtsiqv)
Member Username: Eric308gtsiqv Post Number: 880 Registered: 11-2001 |
Wow, Collin, thanks for that interesting tip...will have to try that next time! I do know that it's easiest to apply the rejuv. oil & cleaner with your bare hands. | ||
| Collin Hays (Chaysintexas)
Junior Member Username: Chaysintexas Post Number: 122 Registered: 4-2002 |
I know this horse has been beaten dead many times over on this site, but I do have a NEW tip that I think might really help someone out who is attempting to re-dye leather seats using the Leatherique products. The tip is this: Apply the dye BY HAND. That's right. Your bare hand. I re-dyed mine first using a cloth. Wasn't happy with results because I could see "wipe marks". Then I stripped the dye and re-tryed using a brush method per Leatherique's instructions. Wasn't happy with that because you CANNOT avoid brush stroke marks. NO WAY, NO HOW. So...I stripped the seats again, and this time, I applied by my bare hand. I simply would apply a few drops at a time with my hand, rubbing into the other, with NO MARKS OR SWIRLS. It looks totally awesome, as you can actually SEE THE GRAIN OF THE LEATHER rather than the cheesy brush strokes. I'm telling you, take the time to do this with your bare and and you won't regret it. Clean up is easy, too. Soap and water take the dye right off your hand, although underneath your nails is a bit more challenging. Good luck! |