| Author | Message | ||
| Charles Barton (Airbarton)
Member Username: Airbarton Post Number: 657 Registered: 11-2002 |
Eugene, the plane is actually not an R/C plane. It is a pedal plane I built for my son. I got the updated bearing at Maranello Auto Parts in Tucker Ga. (800)233-7820. It cost $825. I also converted to the single disc clutch while I had it all apart. What a difference it makes. The clutch feels way smoother and has more of a normal release than the dual disc. The difference is striking to say the least. | ||
| Vincent (Vincent348)
Member Username: Vincent348 Post Number: 685 Registered: 4-2003 |
Eugene, Also smell the fluid. Gear oil and Brake fluid do not smell the same at all. Vincent. | ||
| Eugene Angelo (Eangelo)
New member Username: Eangelo Post Number: 28 Registered: 8-2001 |
Rob, I read some of your articles in the "Parts and Service" section. That is some great info. I hope someday I can understand all of it. | ||
| Eugene Angelo (Eangelo)
New member Username: Eangelo Post Number: 27 Registered: 8-2001 |
Vincent, I will check the color of my fluid tonight. I don't know when the fluid was lasted changed. As what Rob said, I'm sure it will be discolored. Charles, Thanks for your info. BTW, Nice RC plane in your garage. I used fly RC helicopters for a few years. Lots of fun, but expensive to crash. Where did you buy you upgraded 355 bearing. Cost? Thanks!!!! | ||
| Charles Barton (Airbarton)
Member Username: Airbarton Post Number: 654 Registered: 11-2002 |
Eugene, I think Vince might be right about the shaft seals. There are three little seals on the input shaft that goes into the flywheel. They fit into grooves in the shaft. You can pull that shaft out just by giving it a good tug. If the seals leak they will eventually damage the flywheel & clutch. If you already have this whole thing apart you should change them. Vince is also correct about needing a special tool to do this. The reason is because the seals are all the same size. In order to get the back two in place you need to be able to get them over the first two grooves. The tool covers each of the grooves allowing you to slide the seals in place. I borrowed this tool from my local dealer and did the job myself in about ten minutes. The seals are cheap and replacing them could save you a much bigger problem down the road. There is also an updated slave unit and throwout bearing available which is superior to the old unit. It is much like the one in the 355. It has teflon seals and a better t/o bearing. I relaced mine in about 1/2 an hour. | ||
| Rob Schermerhorn (Rexrcr)
Member Username: Rexrcr Post Number: 691 Registered: 11-2002 |
As brake / clutch system hydraulic fluid ages, it typically turns dark, and may be perceived as deep red. Some brake fluids are dyed (Ate). Most brake fluid has no color when fresh. Replacing the slave cylinder seals is very easy. Seals are available at your dealer, you must specify each individual seal, there is no "rebuild kit". These two seals wear in the dusty environment quickly if the car is not regularly driven. Storage for long periods seams to 'harden' the friction material dust, and then when the clutch is cycled in-out, this drags the seals across the abrasive material causing a leak of system pressure, and eventual or sudden failure results. I've seen 200 mile F40's that were only one year old have this failure. The answer to this problem, as with many typical Ferrari maintenance issues, is to drive the sum-bi*ch regularly.  Search for 348 clutch threads, I've posted the part numbers before. | ||
| Vincent (Vincent348)
Member Username: Vincent348 Post Number: 682 Registered: 4-2003 |
Eugene, What color is the fluid in your brake fluid reservoir? This is the same fluid that activates your clutch. Vincent. | ||
| Vincent (Vincent348)
Member Username: Vincent348 Post Number: 681 Registered: 4-2003 |
Eugene, If the fluid is not clear it may be gear oil leaking between the transmisson and drive shaft. I had those seal replaced by a mechanic. To do it you need a special tool, you can make one I have heard. Replacing this seal solved the leak, I too had only a few drops after a drive. I am not sure why the slave cylinder would need rebuilding, as I am not familiar with its inner workings. Though it is possible that you would get brake fluid slipping past the throwoutbearing and mixing with carbon dust from the clutch thus discoloring it. Repacking the FW seems to have stopped my hot start problem. Three hot starts today, no problem. I did not rebuild my throwout bearing, it spun by hand fine and they are expensive. It does have two seals, a rear and front seal. I don't know if those can be replaced independtly or if you have to buy the new throwout bearing. The bearing itself is an SKF # and should be available at a bearing or auto shop, but I'm not sure if you can get it out of the housing and replaced without messing up the casting of the TO housing. Because of the color of your leak, I'm thinking that your seals between the trans. shaft and drive shaft may be leaking. I had this done by a mechanic for a reasonable price. Vincent. | ||
| Eugene Angelo (Eangelo)
New member Username: Eangelo Post Number: 26 Registered: 8-2001 |
Vincent, The fluid is a dark red color. Alot like automatic transmission fluid. When I bought the car about a year ago, an older ex-ferrari mechanic told me the slave cylinder needed to be rebuilt. It has a small leak, about 3 or 4 drops of fluid after I drive it. Did you replace these three seals yourself? While I've got the clutch out, I would like to replace any and all gaskets that I can get my hands on. BTW, Did you your clutch back in today? And did it solve your hot start problem??? Also, I don't remember, did you have your throw-out bearing rebuilt? | ||
| Vincent (Vincent348)
Member Username: Vincent348 Post Number: 666 Registered: 4-2003 |
Eugene, No problem on the picture. The Trowout bearing sildes off, it's a pretty good fit because of the seals but you should be able to pull it off by hand. I had fluid leaking out of the ventilated cover, and it turned out to be the seals between the drive and gear shaft. There are three seals between the shafts. What color is the fluid? Vincent. | ||
| Eugene Angelo (Eangelo)
New member Username: Eangelo Post Number: 25 Registered: 8-2001 |
Vincent, I have not taken the clutch apart yet. But I know it has to be the slave cylinder because I have brake/clutch fluid leaking out of the rectangular grate at the bottom of the clutch housing. BTW, I hope you don't mind that I used one of your pictures. JRV, Thanks for the info. Will the thrust bearing just slide off the end of the shaft, or do I have to use a puller of some type? | ||
| Vincent (Vincent348)
Member Username: Vincent348 Post Number: 665 Registered: 4-2003 |
Eugene, Where do you see the leak coming from? | ||
| JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member Username: Jrvall Post Number: 1769 Registered: 11-2002 |
You remove the retaing bolts on the TO limiting bracket (just behind the TO in pic) and pull it apart. | ||
| Eugene Angelo (Eangelo)
New member Username: Eangelo Post Number: 24 Registered: 8-2001 |
My clutch slave cylinder is leaking and needs to be rebuilt on my 1993 348. I borrowed this picture from one of Vincent's posts. Once you have removed the clutch, how do you remove the thrust bearing assembly, and how do you replace the gaskets and o rings for the slave cylinder? Do I need remove the bolts on the flange behind the thrust bearing? Thanks for any help!  |