| Author |
Message |
Anders J Lamberth (Andersjl)
New member
Username: Andersjl
Post Number: 41
Registered: 4-2001
| | Posted on Monday, June 30, 2003 - 2:20 am: | |
Thanks for all the inputs.
-Does anyone know where to pick up a Workshop Manual / Technical Repair Handbook ?
I know about a few links: for example http://ferrari.jenkins.org/books/
but none has a complete set showing how to repait, disassemble etc. |
Anders J Lamberth (Andersjl)
New member
Username: Andersjl
Post Number: 40
Registered: 4-2001
| | Posted on Monday, June 30, 2003 - 2:08 am: | |
Thanks for all the inputs.
-Does anyone know where to pick up a Workshop Manual / Technical Repair Handbook ?
I know about a few links: for example http://ferrari.jenkins.org/books/
but none has a complete set showing how to repait, disassemble etc. |
Andrew A. Illes (Andyilles)
Junior Member
Username: Andyilles
Post Number: 143
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, June 28, 2003 - 7:28 pm: | |
Verell,
Stop messing with an old man's head.. that's over 10 years ago. I got most of my parts, including all clutch/driveline parts, from either FAF (now Ferrari of Atlanta), Lyle Tanner's, or Algar. Rutland was still working out of his garage back then and was hit or miss, though he's the best now. As I recall, I was paying around $300 for a 308 B&B disc.. if that's what you mean by "aftermarket". No idea what they go for now, but a reasonable guess would be more, huh? I did try some ceramic-button setups that ran around $600, but can't remember who made them.. nor were they worth it... but they came from Competition Components Corp. in Ft. Lauderdale.
Am I even close to answering your question? |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 890
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, June 28, 2003 - 1:25 pm: | |
Andy,
So how much are we talking abuot for an aftermarket friction disc specificly for the 308?
Also do you know of a supplier? |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 888
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, June 28, 2003 - 1:13 pm: | |
EMERGENCY FIRST AID FOR OIL SOAKED CLUTCH
-----------------------------------------
Ric Rainbolt gave me this tip years ago. He sheepishly admitted to dumping almost a full oil filter's worth down the access hole for the timing marks & managed to save the clutch!
It's simmilar to what Andy recommends, but the initial steps are different.
If you dump oil on the clutch, DO NOT ACTUATE IT!!! The oil will only be on the friction disc's rim & some may be in the disc's grooves. However, it won't have penetrated the main friction surface because the surface is clamped firmly between the pressure plate & the flywheel.
To save the clutch, you want to get the oil off before it can work it's way inward to the main friction contact area.
Spray as much brake or electric motor cleaner as you can thru the pressure plate holes to flush the oil off.
Shift the car into neutral w/o actuating the clutch, start the engine up & spray lots more onto the disc thru the pressure plate holes. Luckily the rotation will tend to sling the oil off & outwards.
Once you think you've got as much off as you can, & w/o stopping the engine, start cycling the clutch & spraying some more as Andy described. This is to flush out any oil that started seeping in around the edges of the friction contact area.
At this point it's pretty likely you've successfully saved the friction disc.
If you're really worried, then pull the bell housing so you have better access to the pressure plate & spray, wipe, etc.
This should have headed off any problems. If not, then you need to replace the friction disc.
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Andrew A. Illes (Andyilles)
Junior Member
Username: Andyilles
Post Number: 138
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 7:10 pm: | |
Verell... there are actually several disks what "will fit".. but won't necessarily survive 7-8000 RPM shifts. Though I could frankly never tell the difference by observing or measuring, back in the mid '80s a B&B rep who called on my shop now and then claimed that the stuff they make for known high-rev applications (i.e., F, Lotus, Lambo, etc.) were made using quite different springs, rivets, formulations of liner material, etc. Sales pitch? Who knows, but a do-over costs customer satisfaction and money.. so I stayed with the "correct" stuff.
Best regards,
Andy |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 859
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 25, 2003 - 12:15 am: | |
A while back someone mentioned that they'd discovered that a disc for a ??? fit the 3x8s.
They'd wandered thru the inventory at an auto parts dealer until they found one where the splines & diameter matched.
I can't find the thread. Anyone remember what that disc was used on? |
Andrew A. Illes (Andyilles)
Junior Member
Username: Andyilles
Post Number: 130
Registered: 10-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2003 - 8:18 pm: | |
Anders.... CUTE co-piloti!!!!! First, as has been noted, check your free-play (the distance the clutch pedal moves before you feel disengagement), that's easily adjustable. Second, yes, it's totally possible to soak the clutch with oil changing a filter. If that appears to be the case, get a few spray cans of BRAKE cleaner (NOT carb & choke) and spray them into the clutch while the engine is running (in neutral, of course), with someone activating the cluch in and out. If adjusting the free-play and spraying with cleaner don't work, it's clutch replacement time. Happy lutefisk!!
Best regards,
Andy |
BobD (Bobd)
Intermediate Member
Username: Bobd
Post Number: 1302
Registered: 3-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2003 - 4:56 pm: | |
Didn't I once hear don't let your clutch slip because it causes heat and can ruin the flywheel? This means bigger $$$ for repair. |
John A (Jarends)
Member
Username: Jarends
Post Number: 262
Registered: 7-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2003 - 1:58 pm: | |
I had the clutch replaced in my wife's 328 (86). The clutch pedal was low and I understood that was part of an automatic adjuster built into the linkage, it self adjusts until it has no more to work with. Then a low pedal indicates a worn plate. If the clutch is high and it slips, that would indicate the pressure plate is shot. Anyway, when doing the job, you should replace the pressure and the clutch plate. I'm glad I did, really improved the drivability.
J |
Kurt Kjelgaard (Kurtk328)
Junior Member
Username: Kurtk328
Post Number: 205
Registered: 3-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2003 - 11:17 am: | |
Right, Steve - the clutch can be checked from
above - remove the inspection plate and look at the driven plate.
Thickness of a new plate under pressure is 8.25 mm
with a wear limit of 1.65 mm. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr
Post Number: 1905
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Monday, June 23, 2003 - 9:21 am: | |
Isn't there an inspection port on top of the 308/328 bellhousing where you can judge the remaining clutch disk lining thickness? I believe the OMs suggest "inspecting" the mechanical adjustments of the cable-actuated clutch mechanisms something like every 7,500 miles (but if you're a rational user I think you'd be making an actual tweak more like every 15K miles). If the disk area isn't horribly/obviously contaminated and the remaining lining thickness looks reasonable why not check the adjustment as a first corrective step? |
"The Don" (The_don)
Senior Member
Username: The_don
Post Number: 5440
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Monday, June 23, 2003 - 9:17 am: | |
If it's slipping, there is a good chance it need to be replaced. |
DGS (Dgs)
Junior Member
Username: Dgs
Post Number: 89
Registered: 5-2003
| | Posted on Monday, June 23, 2003 - 7:58 am: | |
Do you have any freeplay in the clutch pedal, or does the clutch disengage at the first touch?
It's just barely possible that the mechanical clutch linkage is adjusted wrong, and the clutch isn't fully engaging. There are two adjustments on the clutch linkage, one for the cable to adjust pedal freeplay, and one on the linkage at the clutch to adjust the bellcrank.
But it's also possible that the clutch friction plate is worn out. Different driving styles will wear out clutches at different rates. I've also heard that a sloppy removal of the oil filter can drench the clutch with engine oil, shortening the life of the friction plate.
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Anders J Lamberth (Andersjl)
New member
Username: Andersjl
Post Number: 39
Registered: 4-2001
| | Posted on Monday, June 23, 2003 - 7:43 am: | |
I have a 328 GTS -87, 35.000 km (22.000 miles) and now the clutch is beginning to slip. Example: I put it in 4th gear, at 3000 rpm and give full throttle -the engine reves up and falls back a little and then the speed begins to pick up.
Is the clutch already worn out ? -Can it be adjusted ? If yes, -how ?
If not, how do I change the clutch ? Part numbers ? Any hints & tips / do�s and don�t s...?
Anders |