|Henry D. Chin (Hanknum)
Post Number: 179
|Posted on Saturday, June 28, 2003 - 1:36 am: |
Thanks for the offer Matt...if I run into a snag, I'll give you a call.
Steve...as usual thanks for the info.
|Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Post Number: 1926
|Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 9:20 am: |
There are mechanical pad adjustments on both the inboard and outboard sides of each 308 rear caliper (see steps 9-13).
This is Ric Rainbolt's 308 handbrake adjustment instructions:
1) Jack the car up and place it on jack stands.
2) Remove both rear wheels and release the parking brake.
3) On US-spec cars and some others, you have to remove a flat metal underpanel to gain complete access to the parking brake cable. This panel is held on by four 10mm bolts.
4) Find the cable that runs between the calipers. We'll call this cable "A". It should route through low friction "eyes" (or cable guides on early 308's), mounted on each side of the car, on it's way to the calipers. The eyes are either nylon or brass, depending on production at the time (or in some cars, a simple metal tube). Refer to the parts book if uncertain.
5) Note that in the middle of the undercarriage, cable A runs through a two-wheeled lever mechanism. It's quite common for the cable to jump off a wheel and/or become severely frayed at this point. Clean this assembly VERY thoroughly and lubricate with a cable lube or synthetic grease. I usually remove the assembly so I can check the operation of the wheels.
6) Locate the buckle on cable A. It should be between the two-wheeled lever and the right side caliper. Two open end wrenches are required to operate the buckle (10mm?? I forget). Loosen the stop nut and the cable adjustment is made by turning the long part of the buckle.
7) At this point, loosen the buckle until it begins to "slack up". That is, until the caliper levers quit pulling, but not so much that the cable falls off the calipers!
8) Inspect the condition of all four rear brake pads. If necessary, remove the pads from the calipers. You'll get the best parking brake effect from a new set of pads. Also, make sure the rotors are not warped.
9) With the pads installed in the calipers, it is necessary to set the take-up adjustment within the caliper. This is accomplished by removing the two covers over the adjusting ports. On the outside of the caliper, normally, there is a plastic cap covering an adjuster. On the inside, there is a cap head plug, just under the parking brake lever along with a copper gasket. If it's the original ATE plug, it can be a ••••• to get out. What I've done to get the inner cap off is actually use a punch to "drift" the cap in the counterclockwise direction. I use a stainless steel cap to replace it when done. If a significant amount of fluid is released when the inner cap is removed, the calipers need to be rebuilt.
10) The outer adjustment is kind of tricky. You must loosen the locking nut (12 or 13mm, I think) to turn the adjustment (4mm hex wrench). Place a .004 inch (0.1mm) feeler gauge between the pad and the rotor and adjust the take-up until the feeler just slips out. It should not drag significantly. Check that the feeler feels about the same at the top and bottom of the pad area. If its drastically different, either the pads are tapered, the rotor is warped, or the caliper is not true.
11) Once the outer pad spacing is set, tighten the locking nut. The problem here, however, is that tightening the locking nut has the effect of altering the adjustment. You have to play with it a little bit to figure out what's going on. After a bit you'll develop a feel for it and you should be able to lock it right at the right point (.004 inch clearance). After everything is tight, double check with the feeler.
12) The inner adjustment is easier because there is only an allen head adjuster (up inside the hole that the cap plug covered, 4mm I think). Using this adjuster, set the inner pad to the same spacing as the outer (again, .004 inch). If the adjuster feels "crusty", shoot some WD40 up in there and turn it back and forth to break loose any corrosion or dried lubricant.
13) After setting the adjustment, replace the inner cap and copper gasket.
14) Tighten the buckle on Cable A until the levers on the caliper *just begin to move*. Any more than this can cause the brake pads to drag, causing premature pad and/or rotor failure (not to mention stinky smoke!). If in doubt, check the pad clearance afterwards and re-adjust.
15) Check the lever "feel" in the car. It should only click 3-4 times before becoming fully firm. If not, have someone help you while you observe the 2-wheeled lever under the car. The 2-wheeled lever should begin to pivot just as the parking brake handle is pulled. If not, there's excess slack in the cable that runs from the handle to the lever. The slack can be adjusted in the cockpit by opening the zipper on the leather shroud. Looking in with a flashlight, to the right side (passenger side on US cars) of the lever there's a nut that can be turned to adjust cable slack.
16) Reassemble the car (underpanel, wheels, etc.).
|"The Don" (The_don)
Post Number: 5547
|Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 7:44 am: |
there is a adjustment screw on the backside of the caliper. If you want I can come over this weekend and give you a hand
|Henry D. Chin (Hanknum)
Post Number: 178
|Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 1:48 am: |
Can someone please post the procedure to adjust the parking brake (at the pads not the cable). I noticed the drivers side does not clamp at all because there is a pin next to the lever on the caliper that is limiting the rotation.