| Author | Message | ||
| david handa (Davehanda)
Intermediate Member Username: Davehanda Post Number: 1181 Registered: 5-2001 |
I don't think it matters, and you are really at the mercy of what is readily available. I don't know anyone that lists Fiamm horn kits by model numbers and specifications. You just get the dual or triple trumpet versions. Some have metal trumpets, some plastic. Doesn't really matter, just go to the local auto parts shop and see what is on the shelf. Expect to pay between $25 and $30 for the entire kit; compressor, relay, tubing, trumpets and y-connector for hose. The compressor will fit into the existing bracket. | ||
| Lee Pierce (Leepierce)
Junior Member Username: Leepierce Post Number: 160 Registered: 1-2003 |
Anybody know which model FIAMM horn is a good replacement for this one? | ||
| Erik R. K. Jonsson (Gamester)
Member Username: Gamester Post Number: 354 Registered: 11-2000 |
Harbor freight has them for ~16. Often the horns won't make decent noise even with them being driven with an airhose... the reed or vibrating disc gets dirty or tweaked and stops making a nice sound. Then all that needs replaced is the horns and you can use your old compressor. | ||
| Lee Pierce (Leepierce)
Junior Member Username: Leepierce Post Number: 159 Registered: 1-2003 |
I'll end up replacing the compressor, agreeing with what Verell said. JC Whitney doesn't have a good Fiamm match right now, so I'll look around and get an identical replacement somewhere. Thanks, everyone! | ||
| TomD (Tifosi)
Advanced Member Username: Tifosi Post Number: 4067 Registered: 9-2001 |
someone also mentioned using air compressor oil instead of 3in1 | ||
| Matt Boyd (Mattboyd)
Junior Member Username: Mattboyd Post Number: 77 Registered: 1-2002 |
I bought the FIAMM kit from JC Whitney a year or so ago. Included all hardware, double horn, hoses, etc...identical motor. $19.95. I just used the motor (compressor). -matt | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member Username: Verell Post Number: 924 Registered: 5-2001 |
re: brushes source Hmm, I'd start with my local TrueValue HW store. Their HW dept has an assortment of brushes. Might have to find something 'close' then file it down to the correct dimensions. On the other hand, the FIAMM horn sets are pretty cheap from JC Whitney, eBAY, etc. (Didn't someone say Pep Boys?) about $50. Real quickly the hassle of trying to stretch the life of something that's pretty well worn out will exceed that. | ||
| Jonathan (Birdman)
Junior Member Username: Birdman Post Number: 54 Registered: 6-2003 |
Lee, Sounds like the brushes in the motor might be worn so it's not putting out enough ooomph. Hey Verell....how do you get brushes to rebuild that motor? Jonathan | ||
| Lee Pierce (Leepierce)
Junior Member Username: Leepierce Post Number: 158 Registered: 1-2003 |
Another update: After sitting overnight, the horn works today! It's not as loud or strong as it should be; it's a little hesitant, but it's 100% better than it has been since I've had the car (1/03). I know the compressor isn't blowing as strong as it should, and it's loud as hell without the horn attached (it's as loud as the horn with it attached!). I know the motor is gone or something. I will lube it again; if it continues I'll just replace. I'm not a concourse guy, anyway, probably pretty obvious from the pics. | ||
| Lee Pierce (Leepierce)
Junior Member Username: Leepierce Post Number: 157 Registered: 1-2003 |
No, the vanes aren't stuck; they were still gummy but I cleaned all that, and they almost fell out when I put the little paddle wheel back in. I didn't lube the motor...sounds a lot like that might do the trick. More later....thanks. | ||
| Jonathan (Birdman)
Junior Member Username: Birdman Post Number: 51 Registered: 6-2003 |
Lee, it sounds like your horn may be clogged or the hose from the pump to the horn is leaking. You can test the pump most easily with a set of alligator clip wires directly to the battery so you can stand there and hold it in your hand while you test it. If it's working, it's obvious. That sucker blows some serious air with no horn attached. Did you also lube the motor through the two tiny holes on the other side of the blower from the pump? In your #3 picture below, it looks like the vanes in the pump are stuck in the rotor. They should slide outward when the rotor rotates and make contact against the wall of the pump. Did you remove/clean/lube them so they can slide outward under power? Jonathan | ||
| david handa (Davehanda)
Intermediate Member Username: Davehanda Post Number: 1148 Registered: 5-2001 |
Check all the hose fittings, and ensure they are not leaking. After all these years, they can go bad too. Replacement Italian made tooters are available at most automotive stores for $30 or so. And the replacements are the higher pitched type like the 328 series... :-) Not concours correct, but sound much better IMO. | ||
| Lee Pierce (Leepierce)
Junior Member Username: Leepierce Post Number: 156 Registered: 1-2003 |
Oh, and the horn still doesn't work. The compressor makes quite a loud sound, like a loud "uuuhhhhh". Is that normal? I didn't have a partner, so wasn't able to test the air coming out. Tomorrow I will test to see that it's putting out air, then just change the horn itself if it is. Does this sound logical? Thanks so much, Verell and Jonathan. I know I'll get to the bottom of it. | ||
| Lee Pierce (Leepierce)
Junior Member Username: Leepierce Post Number: 155 Registered: 1-2003 |
I performed this little rebuild late Saturday night. I took a few shots. Here's one of the position of the compressor. Its' the little gold-topped "can" right about in the middle of the pic. (yes, I know my spare tire trunk is nasty)  Here's the compressor out, whole.  Here's the compressor with the top off  Here's the compressor with the little metal paddle wheel out, on the ground, ready to be cleaned.  | ||
| Jonathan (Birdman)
New member Username: Birdman Post Number: 45 Registered: 6-2003 |
Lee, 3 in 1 is fine. When you take the thing apart, it's really just a little 4-vaned "paddle wheel" pump that looks more like it is designed to move liquid than air. If it's gummy, just clean the parts in a degreaser and put it back together with some 3 in 1 lube and it ought to work fine. Don't forget that it needs periodic lubing to stay operating properly. The only trick is that the little "vanes" end up becoming worn in a pattern that will be matched by the surfaces in which they slide against. You want to reassemble the vanes the same way they came apart or the parts will no longer make a good seal against the wall of the pump. Mine went from completely non-functional to deafening in about 30 minutes (with Verell doing most of the work of course!) If you test it before reassembly (receommended) be sure to keep the air nipple pointed away from your face because it will blow oil mist all over you! Jonathan | ||
| Lee Pierce (Leepierce)
Junior Member Username: Leepierce Post Number: 154 Registered: 1-2003 |
Thanks, Verell, and no, I haven't. I will take a closer look this weekend...Any particular oil? I tend to use 3-in-1 for about everything. | ||
| Jonathan (Birdman)
New member Username: Birdman Post Number: 44 Registered: 6-2003 |
There is no doubt. Verell is the MAN. Saved my bacon today big time!! Jonathan | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member Username: Verell Post Number: 916 Registered: 5-2001 |
LOL, Truly,it's a bit too much. Now not only my hat doesn't fit, but next thing you know I'll be replying in earth-shaking deep bass notes:"YES, MY SON..." | ||
| Ron Shirley (Easy_rider)
Member Username: Easy_rider Post Number: 557 Registered: 12-2002 |
Jonathan, here is what I think of Verell.  | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member Username: Verell Post Number: 912 Registered: 5-2001 |
Lee, You have oiled your horn air compressor recently haven't you? - See the owner's manual If not, or if oiling isn't enough, the compressor is a soda can sized cylinder under the hood on the passenger side under the fibreglass. Remove it, then remove the 3 screws on the end w/the air hose nipple. Clean & oil with a light machine oil. Do NOT use engine oil, it'll gum it up big time. The little fiber vanes MUST go back in the same orientation they were in to ensure they'll seal properly. Drop a few drops of oil into the two small holes by the motor shaft on the other end. Jonathan, you were right, we should have taken photos & written this up. | ||
| Lee Pierce (Leepierce)
Junior Member Username: Leepierce Post Number: 142 Registered: 1-2003 |
Hello! I am much in need of horn advice. I've considered the $30 Pep Boys/Ebay replacement horns, but tell me about the rebuild....sounds more up my alley. I've been dreading having to attach something that may not fit exactly. I prefer to work with what's already there. BTW, my horn draws power and kind of makes a faint buzz, but no shrill squawk. '78 3088 GTS. Main question: how do I get to it? I haven't studied this much yet but some early advice would be appreciated. Thanks. [email protected] | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member Username: Verell Post Number: 898 Registered: 5-2001 |
Damn Jonathan, After reading your post I'm going to need a larger sized hat (Hah!-LOL). Glad to help, & tnx for helping drill those holes in my COVER-IT posts for the 2nd level. BTW, got all but the last 1 done tonite before the bugs & darkness drove me inside... | ||
| Jonathan Bird (Birdman)
New member Username: Birdman Post Number: 22 Registered: 6-2003 |
Hi Everyone, I had my first real-life meeting with an FChatter today. Verell was kind enough to invite me over to step me through rebuilding the blower for the horn on my '77 GTB and also welding a broken seat locking bracket. After a few hours getting the damned seat out of the car due to some lodged roller bearings, I was able to get the seat out and took it over to Verell's place, about 45 minutes away (the car isn't registered yet...hopefully this week). It was a great pleasure meeting someone I have known on-line and who has been so helpful to me with advice! We planned on taking pictures of the rebuild of the blower, but forgot once we got started. Needless to say, Verell was right when he said that they are generally easy to clean, lube and rebuild. My horn is back in business and if you need advice on this, Verell is an expert. The seat latch was a bit more involved (anything involving welding generally is) but now functions as good as new (hey, I can reach the pedals!) I look forward to meeting more FChatters in the future, maybe on a drive someplace. Thanks Verell! Jonathan |