| Author |
Message |
Ken Ross (Kdross)
Member
Username: Kdross
Post Number: 387
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 9:52 pm: | |
Thanks JRV. I will check this out later in the week. Too bad you are not closer to NJ.
Ken
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JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member
Username: Jrvall
Post Number: 1868
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 7:56 pm: | |
1% is fine, the .02% shouldn't make a difference.
Are you certian Fuel Distrib Plate Hieght is correctly set?
Frequency Valve is working?
Fuel Press. is 3.4 Bar instantly with Key On?
Have you tried leaving the Fuel Pump Saftey Switch unplugged?
Has the Thermal Time Sw. been checked/replaced?
At 1% the engine should fire up instantly hot.
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Ken Ross (Kdross)
Member
Username: Kdross
Post Number: 386
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 7:35 pm: | |
Thanks for all the help - you guys are great. JRV, my co setting is at 1.0% and I do not have a cat. Should I change it to 0.8%? Would the 0.2% make that big of a difference?
In addition, my car has all brand new injectors and a new fuel distributor. My mechanic has tuned my car several times (we had some minor bugs that we worked out - this is the last one!) And just last month we installed a new check valve for the fuel, a new fuel accumulator, and and two new coils.
Finally, I do drive my car hard once it is warmed up. I normally shift at 5K or higher. I do not baby the car because 308's run poorly when you do.
Ken
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Jeff B. (Miltonian)
Member
Username: Miltonian
Post Number: 418
Registered: 12-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 4:29 pm: | |
Outsider's viewpoint: Is there a ballast resistor for the coils? I have read that the coils are different for standard and electronic ignitions - perhaps you have the wrong ones? Perhaps the primary ignition wire is broken down? |
JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member
Username: Jrvall
Post Number: 1867
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 1:36 pm: | |
>>The lambda system doesn't work when cold (open loop). <<
True to a degree, however, the Frequency Valve is always working to adjust the FP hot or cold .
What are the CO readings ?
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Tom Bakowsky (Tbakowsky)
Member
Username: Tbakowsky
Post Number: 457
Registered: 9-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 1:02 pm: | |
Quick question for ya Ken...When trying to diagnose this problem did anybody play around with the airflow meter adjustment screw? If the adjustment is way out this could be your problem. Try to set it back to the way it was when the car did not have this problem. It could be to "tight" and the plate is not moving down far enough to allow the propper amount of air into the engine when it is warm. But if knowbody adjusted this, then we know this is not the problem. |
Jeff Edison (Euro308guy)
Member
Username: Euro308guy
Post Number: 383
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 10:43 am: | |
Ken,
Check all your electrical connections associated with this system also. Double check the fuse connection for the fuel pump. These connectors are known to corrode and the additional resistence can show itself when hot and under load. Verify all current reaching it's intended desination prior to doing anything else. Then, it's the same old Fuel, Air or Spark theory.
Best of luck.
Jeff |
jeff ryerson (Atheyg)
Member
Username: Atheyg
Post Number: 301
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 7:02 pm: | |
You'll need a fuel pressure test gauge to check your rest pressure
it could be a defective check valve, leaking cold start injector, defective fuel distributor, or faulty system pressure regulator
Also improperly adj airflow sensor plate, a fuel distributor plunger problem, leaking injectors, leaking cold start injector or shorted thermotime switch or incorrect control pressure
Barnes and Noble sells a book "How to Tune and Modify Bosch Fuel Injection" by Ben Watson for $20 it gives good troubleshooting and repair procedures you may consider it
Good Luck |
stephen r chong (Ethans_dad)
Member
Username: Ethans_dad
Post Number: 341
Registered: 3-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 6:43 pm: | |
Ken,
I feel your pain. If you search the archives, you'll find a bunch of threads I started on the same issue.
Perhaps you could first give us some more information on the nature of the warm start problem:
What exact start up symptoms are you having?
What are your typical drive durations?
Do you run the car gentle, moderate, hard?
What fuel grade/brand are you running?
My car has cleared itself of the issue without any mechanical fix, but rather my driving habits. I used to drive the car very gently to and thru warm-up. I then gave it a few more revs, but never above 4K. The drive durations seemed to be around 20-30 mins before initial shut down. The car would then require me to really work the starter motor to get it to catch. Sometimes 2-3 tries with gas pedal to the floor.
Then, I started to drive the car more freely, and ran the engine speed up to 5-6K range per shift after warm up. Guess what... No more warm start issues. Period. I have increased my typical drives to 45-60mins and have not experienced the problems since. I have also made the occasional dash out to the local market, etc. and again had no issues. I run the car on a consistant premium which has the Techron additive.
I'm not suggesting that this is the solution, but it is free to try, and it worked for my car.
Best of luck in sorting this out.
Steve |
Henryk (Henryk)
Member
Username: Henryk
Post Number: 854
Registered: 8-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 5:15 pm: | |
The lambda system doesn't work when cold (open loop). It only works when the engine is warm, hence, a possibility for your problem. It can be the O2 sensor, lambda valve, or control unit. |
Henryk (Henryk)
Member
Username: Henryk
Post Number: 853
Registered: 8-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 5:10 pm: | |
Could it have something to do with the lambda control unit not functioning properly. If everything else checks out.......I assume he checked all fuel pressures.
The 308 has K-Jetronic with lambda (O2 sensor) and an electronic control unit for the sensor.
Try disconnecting the lambda valve electrical leads, when the car is warm......then try to start it. |
MarkM (Zan)
Junior Member
Username: Zan
Post Number: 67
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 5:10 pm: | |
Have you checked the fuel pressure after shutdown.
It should hold pressure for a least an hour. New part could be bad, I installed a new O2 sensor last month, bad out of the box. |
Ken Ross (Kdross)
Member
Username: Kdross
Post Number: 385
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 4:47 pm: | |
My 308QV is still having a hot start problem. I have replaced both coils, the fuel check valve, and the accumulator. In fact, the problem is worse than before. What is my problem? In addition, the car just had a 30K mile service last year and my mechanic has double checked all of the settings and swears they are fine. I am very frustrated at this point. Any input would be appreciated.
Ken |