| Author | Message | ||
| Paul Newman (Newman)
Junior Member Username: Newman Post Number: 150 Registered: 12-2001 |
Sorry to come up with a different suggestion. If you install the shaft 90% then torque the nut, you would have to mount the cover somehow other than on the engine to torque the nuts. If you use the drive gear to support the inner race and use a press to install the shaft until it bottoms out, you install the cover then install the nuts and torque them, using the engine as the mounting fixture for the cover. It seems pretty straight forward. I dont see the advantage to the 90% method. It has no effect on preload because there isnt any, no matter how you do it, unless its done wrong of course. No offense, it just seems like a complicated way to do a simple job. | ||
| Ric Rainbolt (Ricrain)
Junior Member Username: Ricrain Post Number: 68 Registered: 2-2002 |
Now you've got it!  | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Junior Member Username: Verell Post Number: 104 Registered: 5-2001 |
Ric- In my preceding post I meant the outer bearing. (short in headset). Anyway, I think I understand now. I was erroneously visualizing what you were implying by:"What I do is press the gears in 90% of the way, and then let the torque of the front nut (on the drive pulley) pull it in the rest of the way." The pulley is already in the timing cover (Since It's retained by clips I'm assuming it isn't a press fit.) The gear's shaft is pressed ~90% of the way into the bearing's inner race. When the ringnut is tightened it draws the shaft into the pulley. during the tightening, process, the pulley's hub must press the race the rest of the way onto the shaft. (Do I have it now?) Sorry if I seem dense, Somehow I didn't think the pulley's hub actually contacted the bearing. I don't have that nice figure in your qvs directory available for reference. | ||
| Ric Rainbolt (Ricrain)
Junior Member Username: Ricrain Post Number: 65 Registered: 2-2002 |
Verell, The inner bearing is in the block and is not adjustable in any way. The outer bearing (the one in the timing cover) is part of a "stack" created by the drive gear, the I.D. of the outer bearing, and the outer pulley. Tigtening the nut on the pulley only applies force to the the stack and does not affect the axial load on the bearing at all. The only axial load is that imposed by the helical cut of the drive gear, pushing in or out on the drive gear and thus the pulley and I.D. of the outer bearing. The outer bearing is kept in place by a retaining clip that is on the O.D. | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Junior Member Username: Verell Post Number: 103 Registered: 5-2001 |
Ric - BTW, Your method leaves the inner bearing pre-loaded with a indeterminate amount of axial pressure from the ring-nut. Is this good,bad, or a don't care? I can see how a small amount of pre-load could be good as it would stabilize the shaft. | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Junior Member Username: Verell Post Number: 102 Registered: 5-2001 |
CRANK OIL SEAL NUMBERS?? Mitchell- Could you look at the crankshaft oil seal you got for your timing cover & post the numbers from it? Also let me know the number of sealing lips it has (probably 1). Given the numbers & #of lips I should be able to get an off-the shelf replacement from my local bearing supply co. I've been quoted $75 for the seal & just can't believe the price. BTW, did you say the timing ring nuts cost you $37 each?? I bought a pair from TRutlands for $12.50 each. | ||
| Ric Rainbolt (Ricrain)
Junior Member Username: Ricrain Post Number: 59 Registered: 2-2002 |
What I do is press the gears in 90% of the way, and then let the torque of the front nut (on the drive pulley) pull it in the rest of the way. This way you don't risk damaging the housing with the press. | ||
| Mitchell Minh Le (Yelcab1)
Junior Member Username: Yelcab1 Post Number: 135 Registered: 11-2001 |
So, If I press the drive gears into the bearing from behind all the way until they go no further, then I am set? That is my question. Or is there a distance that the gear surface has to protrude above the timing case cover measured without gasket? | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Junior Member Username: Verell Post Number: 97 Registered: 5-2001 |
Ric, My (admittedly limited) experience has been that once the cam pulley positions have been set up using the cam-cam pulley pins, changing the belt does't require re-doing this adjustment. 1) Does this match your experience, Or is there enough belt-belt dimenstional variation to require redoing this adjustment? 2) Will replacing the timing bearings require re-doing the cam-cam pulley alignment? | ||
| Ric Rainbolt (Ricrain)
Junior Member Username: Ricrain Post Number: 57 Registered: 2-2002 |
The drive gear "depth" is set by the thickness of the gasket and the components in the timing case. Once the front ring nuts are fully torqued, the "depth" is set. There is no adjustment. The holes in the pulley and shaft are used for "fine" adjustment (sub-tooth). The interference of the holes on the camshaft and those on the pulley allow for something like a 1-degree adjustment. | ||
| Mitchell Minh Le (Yelcab1)
Junior Member Username: Yelcab1 Post Number: 134 Registered: 11-2001 |
I am reassembling the timing case cover with the 2 timing drive pulleys (and the oil pump drive gear) together as one unit. I have several questions: 1. Is there a specified depth to which the drive gear should fit with respect to the case cover and / or the bearing? 2. When the whole thing goes back together, do you use the allignment holes (between the camshaft and the cam-timing pulley to finalize and tweak the timing of the belt to the rest of the gears? If so, is that just an iterative process? ML |