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TomD (Tifosi)
Advanced Member
Username: Tifosi

Post Number: 4138
Registered: 9-2001
Posted on Friday, July 11, 2003 - 7:27 am:   

no problem, I figured you did already but always worth dragging them out
Mike Florio (Mike_in_nevada)
New member
Username: Mike_in_nevada

Post Number: 12
Registered: 6-2003
Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 11:23 pm:   

I'm not a TR owner (yet) but I remember watching the techs at Ferrari of Mill Valley drop a TR engine and subframe in about an hour. They put the car up on a lift, rolled a steel table under the motor, dropped the car until it just kissed the table, undid some bolts, lifted the car and slid the subframe/motor out. Pretty slick. But you need a lift and a proper size rolling table.

Now looking at all the money you'll save doing this maint yourself, $2k for a Bend-Pack asymmetrical lift might be a worthwhile investment. That's how I justified mine... but don't ask about the new 4-car garage with 13' ceilings required to house it!
Jeff Green (Carguy)
Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 366
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 4:16 pm:   

Thanks Tom....I already have those threads saved on my computer for future reference. I appreciate you taking the time to look for them and post them, as others will also find it informative.
TomD (Tifosi)
Advanced Member
Username: Tifosi

Post Number: 4137
Registered: 9-2001
Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 3:37 pm:   

http://www.ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/112/43613.html

http://www.ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/256120/45099.html
Douglas A Hunt (Boxercrazy)
New member
Username: Boxercrazy

Post Number: 36
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 3:28 pm:   

I thought that on the TR's the whole rear subframe came out from the rear....engine/transaxle/wheels as one unit


doug(who has to learn all this stuff,cause if i ever manage to get one,theres NO one around here where i live that i would let touch it!!!)
Jeff Green (Carguy)
Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 360
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 9:19 pm:   

Thank You Henryk...you are correct about the matchbook being too thick. I have been adviced to use a piece of paper folded over one time. But I do like your idea of vice grips, I may just do that.

Luigi...I believe both left and right gas tanks must come out, as well as the oil tank. At least that's how it looks on my '87 TR. I've been thinking about this for a week solid, and have concluded that while it can be done by removing all the tanks, it will yield better results by pulling the motor out. So many more things can be serviced, without strain or cramps. I believe the quality will be better, at least for me. I have heard that some service shops do the belts with the engine in the car as you are thinking.
Luigi Nicoletti (2mmuch)
Junior Member
Username: 2mmuch

Post Number: 72
Registered: 9-2002
Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 9:45 am:   

Jeff
Sorry I can't help you on this but I will be checking in every now and then because I'm thinking of doing my belts this winter. I bought my car at an auction and have no service records of the last time they where replace. Better safe then sorry. Can the belts be done with only removing the gas tank, or does the engine have to come out?
Henryk (Henryk)
Member
Username: Henryk

Post Number: 898
Registered: 8-2001
Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 11:14 pm:   

Jeff: TDC is on the compression stroke of #1....on any engine.

I don't like the idea of slipping a match book cover in the cam journal to hold it in place. There are stories where the journal cracked....why risk it? I changed belts on a 328 years ago, and used a vise grip to hold and rotate the cam a little......grabbed it just behind the cam bearing.

Once all the alignment marks are lined up, the belt should go on without any problem. I rotated the engine by hand to make sure the alignment marks where right on after several rotations.

Good luck on the major!!!!!!

Jeff Green (Carguy)
Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 356
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 7:35 pm:   

I have reached the decision to do the major on my TR, it'll be a pain, but not rocket science. I have some questions on installing the cam drive belts. Is topdead center on the compression stroke of #1 cylinder? Is the method of slipping a match book cover over the cam journal and then tightening down the cap a good way of keeping the cam stationary? When installing belts, do I keep the crank-to-cam side of the belt taught and slip it onto the teeth, and then let the tensioner take up the slack on the other side? Thank You for your assistance.

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