| Author | Message | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member Username: Magoo Post Number: 2712 Registered: 2-2001 |
God bless you guys. I have never trusted a torqued KO since I had one loosen up on me on my 66 Vette. I will admit it happened just after I bought it and the other guy probably didn't torque it properly. So I pinned mine with brass pins after I knocked them on. Just be sure because that is one scary feeling when that rumble occurs at 80 mph. or whatever. Been there. | ||
| Bruce Warwick (Skyking)
New member Username: Skyking Post Number: 35 Registered: 5-2001 |
I bought a socket from Snap-On that fits my '86 TR just fine for $40.00 Canadian [that's about 25 bucks US or real money as we say up here in Canada]. A used Snap-on torque wrench for trucks does the 325 foot-pounds just fine. Bruce. | ||
| Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
Member Username: Benjet Post Number: 587 Registered: 1-2001 |
SSBC can be found here: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/ -Ben | ||
| F-J'87EuroTR (Ferrarijoe)
Junior Member Username: Ferrarijoe Post Number: 162 Registered: 5-2001 |
Ernest, Have you tried TRutlands in Atlanta? 770 493-8852. Also here is a Torqometer on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1825609678 Joe | ||
| Ernest Riggen (Ernest)
New member Username: Ernest Post Number: 20 Registered: 4-2002 |
Okay, I'm having trouble finding a place to buy the socket. Another WEB site referenced Stainless Steel Brake Co but I have not a number or anything. Any ideas? Thanks. | ||
| F-J'87EuroTR (Ferrarijoe)
Junior Member Username: Ferrarijoe Post Number: 147 Registered: 5-2001 |
I concur Brian. That is why I choose the Snap-On Torque-O-Meter C-352. It reads in both directions for both sides of the car (look closer at photo below). The AV-1522 socket can be bought through either TRutlands or George Evans for around $250.00 and the Snap-On Torque-O-Meter C-352 or 602 which torques up to 600lbs, usually go for $50-$100 on eBay. Check both out: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1823693785&r=0&t=0 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2019951685 Joe | ||
| Brian stewart (Eurocardoc)
Member Username: Eurocardoc Post Number: 275 Registered: 11-2001 |
Remember that any torque wrench will have to work (read or click) in both directions. 3/4 drive two way torque wrenches will run $400 and up depending on quality. Mine cost a little under $600 if I recall! Add the cost of the Ferrari factory socket and I have my mortgage payment. Try Baum tools for cheaper alternatives. | ||
| F-J'87EuroTR (Ferrarijoe)
Junior Member Username: Ferrarijoe Post Number: 130 Registered: 5-2001 |
Here is the setup I made to take care of the TR knock off lug wheels as I stated on the below post.  | ||
| F-J'87EuroTR (Ferrarijoe)
Junior Member Username: Ferrarijoe Post Number: 123 Registered: 5-2001 |
Ernest, I posted this earlier on TR knock offs and thought you might be interested. One of the most important things to keep tabs on when you have a early model TR with single hub nuts is to make sure they stay lubed with loctite copper anti-cease and that they are always checked and re-torqued if necessary often (every 1K miles minimum). If you want, from TRutlands buy the Ferrari tool AV-1522 for the hub nut (it�s �� drive) and get a 350 ft. lb. Snap-On Torque-O-Meter C-352 (it�s �� drive) from eBay for $50-75. It has a cheater bar that inserts into the handle for advantage and brakes down to stow away in the trunk or case the some come with. The whole set will run around $250-300 but that is the cost of 1 hub nut. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1824068410&r=0&t=0 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1823693785&r=0&t=0 Loosen the nuts then jack up one side of the car at a time. Remove the nut and wheel, clean the inside threads and outside hub splines and the outside threads of the nut. Liberally spooge on the loctite on all mating surfaces. Thread on the nut and torque to 325 ft. lbs. I have this setup, it is fantastic, and check/torque the wheels take 5 minutes. | ||
| Craig Dewey (Craigfl)
Member Username: Craigfl Post Number: 362 Registered: 1-2001 |
You should be able to find a multiplier from someplace like Snap-On. See here: http://buy.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?qt=1&INV_ONHAND=&FREIGHT=&qty=1&Item_id=14559&PartNo=YA290PLUS&Price=531.00&ListPrice=531.00&FORMNAME=0&Desc=Torque+Multiplier%2C+Geared+Head%2C+Bar+Reaction%2C+750+ft.+lb.+Output&SUB_Cat_ID=942406&SUB_Cat_NAME=Geared+Head+Multipliers&Cat_ID=941402&Cat_NAME=Torque&group_id=976&group_NAME=Geared+Head+Multipliers&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog The only difficulty you may have is that there is another thing to hold-- the multiplier reaction bar. So then you would have to balance the socket on the k/o nut, hold the torque wrench and brace the reaction bar. This almost becomes a two person job. | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member Username: Magoo Post Number: 2618 Registered: 2-2001 |
My 66 vette has the same type of knock off. A torque multiplier is good but a lead hammer is what I have used and it works great. There is no forgiving with a lead hammer. Once you strike the blow it takes all the shock. No bouncing effect like steel or other types of hammers. It will tighten sufficently. Lead will not damage the KO either. | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member Username: Bretm Post Number: 2446 Registered: 2-2001 |
A pipe would work. Any wrench made to take off the knockoffs could handle the extra length of a pipe or whatever. | ||
| Hubert Otlik (Hugh)
Junior Member Username: Hugh Post Number: 60 Registered: 1-2002 |
Do you mean a breaker bar? In that case, check w/ Harbor Freight tools or your local Sears. | ||
| Ernest Riggen (Ernest)
New member Username: Ernest Post Number: 18 Registered: 4-2002 |
Bill B suggested I get ahold of a torque multiplier for knock off removal as opposed to hammering on the factory wrench. I'm wondering where I might get one or if someone has one for sale? Feel free to email me at [email protected] if you do. THanks. Ernest |