| Author |
Message |
Greg Rodgers (Joechristmas)
Member
Username: Joechristmas
Post Number: 779
Registered: 3-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, July 20, 2003 - 6:14 pm: | |
Here is the procedure I found on FerrariList. Might help you out if that is your problem.
Hi all,
Because I don't want anyone else to take nearly as long as I did
tonight (3.5 hours), I provide you with my clutch cable replacement
procedure with lessons learned.
i) Raise the driver side, front and rear. Please always use jack
stands, and NEVER simply a hydraulic jack to hold the car.
ii) Remove the lower cover in the front center underside of the car
which allows access to the front part of the two coolant pipes
running front to rear of the car. You now have full access to all
segments of the clutch cable.
iii) Go to the clutch bellhousing where the clutch cable connects to
the lever mechanism. Remove the cotter pin and remove the clevis
pin from the clutch cable.
iv) Go to the clutch pedal (inside the car, under the dash). Remove
the cotter pin and remove the clevis pin from the clutch cable.
v) Where the clutch cable enters the footwell, it comes in through a
sheath. The sheath has a threaded end that sticks into the
footwell, and it has a 19mm nut and washer securing it. You must
remove this nut and washer. If you try to simply turn nut, the entire
sheath will move. There is one flat spot on the threads of the
sheath, and you can put a 10mm wrench on this to hold it while
you begin to loosen the nut. Remove this nut.
vi) Where the clevis pin went through here at this end of the clutch
cable is a fork. There is also a nut here. I held the fork with a
channel lock (don't hold tight in such a way that you might
compress the fork), and loosened this nut (11mm). You need to
remove the fork and the nut from the clutch cable. It is
IMPORTANT to count the threads as you remove the fork so when
you put your new cable in you can match it up.
vii) Go under the car where the clutch cable exits the footwell. You
can now pull the clutch cable by the sheath and pull it out of the
footwell. There is a 17mm hex surface on the end of the sheath,
and a washer where the sheath ends and the clutch cable
disappears as it heads back towards the rear of the car. You must
loosen the sheath (you won't be able to fully remove the washer
until you pull the clutch cable through to the front).
viii) Now it is necessary to remove the fork from the end of the
clutch cable that connects to the bell housing linkage. This has an
adjuster here and a nut that are tightened together. You must
loosen the nut by using two 10mm wrenches to break the double
nut effect. Again, as you remove the fork, count the threads it
takes to remove it.
ix) On my car, there are three rubber guides that the cable goes
through. One is at the rear of the car just where the cable appears
in the engine bay. If you follow the expected route of the cable with
your eyes, in the middle of the fiberglass undertray is a big rubber
plug. You can remove the big rubber plug to access two more
rubber guides at a break in the metal tube the clutch cable follows.
You must remove all three of these rubber guides. All of them have
a slit in them so that although they do fully surround the cable, you
can remove them by sliding the cable through their slit.
x) Pull the old cable out from the front. Route the new cable in
from the front (be sure to put the washer back on in the same
fashion you remove it as you finish pulling the old cable out). Once
the cable is all the way through, replace the rubber guides and the
rubber plug.
xi) Most of reinstallation is reverse of removal. Tighten the 17mm
hex face of the sheath. Route the clutch cable back into the
footwell. Put the 19mm nut and washer back on and tighten.
Reinstall the fork and 11mm nut on this end of the clutch cable,
taking care to put it on with the same number of threads as you
removed it. Now connect the fork to the clutch pedal, put the clevis
pin and cotter pin back in to fully secure this end of the clutch
pedal. In order to make it easier to connect the rear part of the
clutch cable, put something under the clutch pedal so it is more
than fully released, thus allowing slack at the rear. I put two UFI
filters in their boxes under the clutch pedal (what better use IS
there for them??? ;-).
xii) Go to the rear of the car and install the fork back on, again
taking care to count threads. Connect the fork to the rear clutch
linkage, install the clevis pin, but do not install the cotter pin yet.
xiii) Remove whatever you put under the clutch pedal and inspect
the pedal height. If it looks correct, go back to the rear, install the
cotter pin, drop the car down and take it for a test drive paying
careful attention to where the clutch engages/disengages.
xiv) If the clutch pedal does not look like it is sitting at the right
height, consider the adjustments necessary to remedy the
problem. If the clutch pedal is too high, then you want the clutch
cable to be longer. Move the pedal slowly to the position where
you think it should be, and as you move it watch the threads on the
clutch cable as it passes some reference mark and count the
threads. I chose to leave the cotter pin off in the rear so that if
necessary I could go back there and make my adjustment without
having to remove the cotter pin first.
THE END.
Now....here are some lessons learned. The cable won't go through
those rubber guides easily as you remove it, and I don't think the
new one would push through the guides even if I'd routed a puller
through as I pulled the old cable out. I hope everyone has a rubber
plug underneath their car like I do. At first I thought I was screwed
because I WAS pulling a guide through when I hit a "snag" which
ended up being one of those rubber guides (which I didn't know
existed). The guide pulled off, and then I couldn't pull the old cable
through without experiencing a lot of resistance (which, of course,
was that rubber guide).
I thought I had counted threads properly, but I was WAAAAY off.
When I finished, the pedal was WAY too high. The adjustment
wasn't too difficult though once I figured out which way I wanted to
go.
Next time for me, this 3.5 hour job will most likely not exceed 1
hour. I urge you all to look at the condition of your clutch cable.
Mine is about 6 strands, and the old one had broken three of the 6
strands.
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Richelson (Richelson)
Member
Username: Richelson
Post Number: 864
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, July 20, 2003 - 4:02 pm: | |
Driving the 308 today, everything was going well. Then I pushed the clutch in and I heard a noise. The pedal felt different. Anyway the pedal is the same height as it was before but not has an inch of free play at the top of it. PLus I have to push the clutch all the way to the floor to get it to disengage now. Seeing how that is my clutch has plenty of life left on it. Just wanted to get some ideas on this. I am thinking it is a slightly broken clutch cable, a few strands seperated or something in the adjustment. The car still shifts and drives ok with no grinding but the pedal has to be right on the floor now for it to disengage, plus the large amount or free play at the top of the pedal. |
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