| Author | Message | ||
| Neville Pugh (Nev_Pugh)
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Hey, I've got that mouse pad. But in green. (sorry ;-) | ||
| Peter Boray (Gts308qv)
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Often there is a dry joint problem with one of the FI sensors causing rough idleing and surging. There are 4 different sensors for the QV injection. Under header tank,air flometer,next to thermostat etc. Locate each one, seperate and spray the contacts with a electrical contact cleaner spray available from most electronic hobby shops.Also remove each of the wires to the coils (one at a time so as not to get them mixed up) and spray those as well. It cured my problem and worth a try ! | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
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Hey Dave, Don't feel bad, I find myself reading the threads and when I answer them, sometimes I have lost my train of thought. Magoo | ||
| david schirmer (David)
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Hey Peter, thanks for being so nice in pointing out that I wasn't paying attention. ...uhh maybe it was the rare carburated QV... doh! | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
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Possibly the coil for that bank is weak and is not hot enough to adequately fire them. I would replace it before I got into splitting hairs with the FI. | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
|
Donny mentions he has an '84 QV, so it's fuel injected and therefore requires a whole different procedure to adjust (which for me is way over my head, so I haven't a clue as to how to do it). I have a much easier time getting to the front bank screws on my carbs than the rear. They are wedged so close to the valve cover, I can only use my fingers to reach (thank God that once they're set, they're SET and you don't have to touch them again) Herbert, FI man, where are you? | ||
| david schirmer (David)
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It is possible that whoever last had a screwdriver on your carbs just adjusted the rear set and didn't bother with the front set. You can get at the screws for the rear set easily, the front set is a bit more work. | ||
| Donny Bridges (Wildcatfans)
|
Magoo, thanks for the tip, I think that may do the trick. I installed a wide SS hose clamp around the loose shield and the tight one next to it. I'll take it out tomorrow and verify it doesn't rattle. Sound like a good excuse to spend the day driving. My next question is, how can one bank of cylinders run leaner that the other bank, and how can they be adjusted independantly. I am assuming this is an issue since all the plugs on the front bank were WHITE in comparison with the rear bank. Thanks again | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
|
Donny, check the heat shields on the exhaust manifolds. They would give a metallic sound and as they heat up they could be getting closer to the manifold, vibrating, causing a louder noise. You can check them by using a wooden stick, like a broom stick, or a short piece of a 1" by 2" wooden stud and apply pressure on the shield as the engine is running and heating up. | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
|
That's okay Donny, the colours of the plugs is what is to be read. Those insulators should be a little more grey/tan/brown colour, not white. Since you say the sound is coming from that side of the engine and you mentioned one rotor is wider than the other, is it striking the contacts in the cap? Is it damaged/rounded corners/scraped? Its a long shot... | ||
| Donny Bridges (Wildcatfans)
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Nice clear shot of the mouse pad hu? | ||
| Donny Bridges (Wildcatfans)
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By rotor side I was refering to the side of the engine the rotors are on, the drivers side. Sorry! I'm gonna try to post two pix of the plugs. I'll cross my fingers.  | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
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Issue #1 sounds bad to me. FI cars should run smoothly, no misses. Issue #4 could be a bearing (Timing belt tensioner, A/C belt tensioner, etc...). If valve clearances were out, you'd have clacking noises at start-up and as it warms, tolerances get tighter and noise decreases. Not a bad idea to adjust valves, but they can go for a long time. Could you be more specific about the noise location: Rotor side? | ||
| Doug Meredith (Doug308)
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Chances are that your injectors are original, which means 17-18 yrs old. Get new ones installed, they are only $30 each. I'm sure new injectors with a good tune will solve some problems | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
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I can answer #3 at least, don't worry about it. If you go underneath you can see that the design of the exhaust makes the passenger side inherently more forceful than the driver's. Or at least on mine and a couple other Qvs I've seen this has been the case where the passengers noticeably more pressurized. | ||
| Donny Bridges (Wildcatfans)
|
I have an 84 308 QV that I purchased about 3 weeks ago in Colorado. I had an earlier posting, asking about the Slowdown light that came on while driving it back to Baton Rouge (Thanks for the advice!). I changed out all the plugs looking for one that might not be firing thus causing excess fuel in the cat and the light. None of the plugs looked fouled, however there was a difference in all front bank plugs vs. the rear ones. It wasn't a dramatic difference, but the front plug's ceramic was whiter and the electrode was a little cleaner. Also the glass body was browner at the base than the rear plugs. (I'll try to post a photo). I also checked the resistance of the plug wires. There was a difference of about 300-400 ohms on the same length wire, front vs. back, but all were relatively close. I also pulled the rotors and inspected/cleaned them. One had obviously been replaced since the conductor was much wider than the other rotor. Anyhow, I have driven the car for 300-400 miles (not all at once) but no Slowdown light. I hope this has corrected the original problem. Now I would like to ask a few more questions about what is normal with a 308. Issue #1 The car idles a little rough. I can hear a distinct miss every second or so, and I hear it under very light acceleration (puttering through the subdivision). (I warned you this was a wordy one). While driving at 65 or so, not accelerating, I also hear the occasional miss. If I am actually accelerating hard, it sound sweet! (maybe I should just do that all the time) Issue #2 I smell a strong gas odor from the exhaust on startup, it goes away after 4-5 minutes. Issue #3 There is much more air flow from the passenger side exhaust than the driver side. (there is one cat and one muffler) Issue #4 Upon startup the engine is relatively quiet. As it begins to warm I can hear a metallic sound like a loose bracket. It gets louder as the engine warms up. When I bought the car I thought it was the grill above the engine rattling. It sound like it is coming from the rotor side of the engine. My initial thought is it's time to adjust the valve clearances. I don't have a record of this service. Thanks for any advice on the above topics. Don't mean to sound like an idiot, but my Ferrari is the first one I have ever been around and have no idea what is normal with these cars. I'd like to take the time to repair any issues with the car before they become bigger problems. PS Since I bought the car, I log onto this site almost nightly. Hopefully, someday I'll actually be able to contribute some info. |