| Author | Message | ||
| Greg_gray (Greg_gray)
New member Username: Greg_gray Post Number: 4 Registered: 7-2003 |
Hi Peter I will send you the photos of the Suzuki throttles this weekend. Please give me some feedback on your thoughts of them. Also thanks to the person who sent me a PM. I got the book for about six dollars. Also I think I may start a new thread on brake upgrades. I just upgraded the brakes on my Porsche, the reason this may be of interest to you all (308 owners) is that the Porsche uses brembos too. I read that the rear brakes are in the too hard basket because of the handbrake mechanisn. Well take a look at my cailpers and discs. The size for the discs is 322mm BTW. It has the handbrake mechanisn in the hat. It's simple and cheap. With the adaptors I had made, the cost of my brake system was $5000 AUD which is about $3200 USD. That includes everything. All we have to work out is how to get that Ferrari logo on them! http://www.momentoffame.com/snapshot.html?id=22343 http://www.momentoffame.com/snapshot.html?id=22344 http://www.momentoffame.com/snapshot.html?id=22342 Cheers Greg. | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Advanced Member Username: Peter Post Number: 2952 Registered: 12-2000 |
Greg: "...Thanks BTW for that tip about the book. Do you know where I can get a copy?" I got mine from Amazon.com. I believe its out of print and the one I got was second-hand (but in perfect shape). Reasonably priced (under $20 US). I'm not familiar with the Suzuki throttle bodies and therefore have no idea what you're talking about (two throttle plates?). Fill me in with the details: [email protected] The rest of your mods sound cool too. | ||
| Greg_gray (Greg_gray)
New member Username: Greg_gray Post Number: 3 Registered: 7-2003 |
Thanks for responding Peter, I'll take on board your comments about the broken valves and do more home work on that one. With respect to throttle bodies, I was going to look at adapting the Suzuki GSX-R individual throttle bodies. Now how these differ is that they have two blades. One is mechanically operated, the other is operated by a stepper motor. The stepper motor would need to be controlled by a E M S. The advantage of this system is that it creates low speed velocity through the ports. So big cammed engines dont bog down. The engine there on produces 150 hp per liter. The throttle body size is 50mm down to 42mm. Some people bore them to 45mm. These are not expensive second hand. I was quoted about $450 USD for a set with the stepper. Also Motec comes from down here in Oz and they have two different pricing strategies, one for you (expensive) and one for us. (cheap) For a system for the Ferrari you would need to spend about $2000 USD, that's not too bad. Piston coatings are quite cheap also, I have spoken with an engineering co in the U.K and they coat the F1 engines, both the pistons and the blocks. I can get the barrels coated here though. $130 USD for the barrels. The piston coatings will not come off as they are bonded at the molecular level and cost about $50 USD each piston. That is done by the F1 people BTW. I also have and I can post the pictures or send them to you, of my variable back pressure exhaust valve. I bought this for my Porsche and will use it when I get the new running gear. As you would be well aware these are used on all the new top end equipment including top end bikes such as the GSX-R. Peter the other thing about the way I mod things is that I try to keep the factory look. I don't like hotrod looking Porsches and Ferraris, so please don't think I'm going out there and trying to reinvent the GT4. Thanks BTW for that tip about the book. Do you know where I can get a copy? Cheers Greg. | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Advanced Member Username: Peter Post Number: 2949 Registered: 12-2000 |
Greg, I imagine you're following the "308 Hi-Comp rebuild" thread elsewhere in this Tech Q&A section. Lots of useful performance upgrade info in there (plus, this discussion has been brought up many times before. Always check the archives using the "Search" button on the bottom of the page). I'd avoid using hollow valves. You may end up suffering from the same syndrome of bent or broken sodium-filled exhaust valves (I was a victim of bent, another F'Chatter was of broken...  . Although he's up and running again  ). It seems that as the guide wears, the valves rock around, either hitting the seats unevenly, or striking the cut-outs on the (stock) pistons. I had the idea of converting to F.I. for my GT4. I noticed DTA in the UK has Jenvey DCNF-style bodies, so I'd use those and SDS EM-4E engine management (local Canadian company). All of it requires big $$$, so I'm not in a hurry... For engine-part coatings, there's this stuff: http://www.keronite.com/ I have no experience using it, but it looks interesting (and $$$). Try to get a copy of Allen Bishop's "Ferrari Guide to Performance" book by Motorbooks Int'l. Has info on cam position and performance affects in it... Sorry, I have no idea of wheel offset for the stock 7 1/2 X 14" wheels. I'm sure that measurment has been posted here before. | ||
| Greg_gray (Greg_gray)
New member Username: Greg_gray Post Number: 2 Registered: 7-2003 |
Hi to all, I was wondering can you put 360 wheels on a 308 GT4? I've seen it on a 308 but not the GT4. I would like to know first is it possible and what is required to implement? Secondly can anyone shed light on the offsets? These can be critical to steering feel and car behaviour. I know, I updated the wheels on my Porsche 928 amongst other things and the scrub radius was reduced. This is great for more steering feel on the track but not so good on rutted Sydney roads. In interested in the GT4 as a project, I like the Bertone styling and think alot could be done to drag more power out of the motor. I was thinking about using a Motec with FI. The other idea I had was to Nicasil the barrels instead of replacing them. Nicasil has a lower friction coefficient, great for high revvers. To rev faster everything needs to be lighter, so I would probably get some JEs. The valve train is lovely and now the best way to lighten that assembly being hollow stem stainless valves. There a treat and cheaper than the originals at about $35 USD. TI retainers would also be implemented. Has anybody ever tried to retard the intake cam? With a engine able to rev more I would have thought that this mode may help top end power. Also the lobe separatio angle would be greater and this would make for a better idle. Just some thoughts, please share with me yours. Cheers Greg. P.S My other car resto, all work undertaken by the owner personally. http://www.momentoffame.com/snapshot.html?id=19141 http://www.momentoffame.com/snapshot.html?id=18813 |