| Author | Message | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Intermediate Member Username: Verell Post Number: 1039 Registered: 5-2001 |
Andy, You've been sniffin gas fumes too long. It's a genuine Panama Jack 'Gambler'. It doesn't even look like any Shady Brady I've ever seen. It's a tropical hat from a tropical island. When I want a good western hat, I wear my custom Resistol with the factory installed Stetson band. Otherwise, my old Miller Brothers does just fine. (Heheheh) | ||
| Andrew A. Illes (Andyilles)
Junior Member Username: Andyilles Post Number: 178 Registered: 10-2002 |
Oh... it's a PR knock-off... NOT a genuine Shady Brady?? Well... then it's DEFINITELY the hat!!!  | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Intermediate Member Username: Verell Post Number: 1021 Registered: 5-2001 |
Naaah, Can't be the hat. That's a souvenir from a free trip to Puerto Rico. Lets air flow thru so my head doesn't over heat from thinking(LOL).. | ||
| Andrew A. Illes (Andyilles)
Junior Member Username: Andyilles Post Number: 172 Registered: 10-2002 |
Verell... it's the hat... )) | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Intermediate Member Username: Verell Post Number: 1015 Registered: 5-2001 |
Phil, Thanks for correcting me!! Now I remember. When I was doing it the 1st time I thought I had to take the slack out in the reverse direction, then when I put tension on the bolts the engine rotated fwd & surprised me! Early Alzheimers creeping up on me I guess(LOL).. MY POST BELOW IS WRONG, YOU DON'T TAKE THE SLACK OUT IN THE REVERSE DIRECTION TO REMOVE THE CAM BOLTS. My apologies for missleading you. Just take the slack out by rotating then engine forward until it's on PM1-4 as I described a bit further on in the TIP. | ||
| Phil Hughes (Ferrarifixer)
New member Username: Ferrarifixer Post Number: 11 Registered: 7-2003 |
Remember Verrel, that the cams counter rotate compared to crank direction.... | ||
| Tuco Ramirez (Tuco)
New member Username: Tuco Post Number: 5 Registered: 5-2003 |
Yeah, I didn't think that far ahead --- I've got the plastic cogs (308 2-valve), and the old belts already off --- replacing the seals was an afterthought. Guess I'll pull the cams and put 'em in a bench vise to crack the bolts. thanks again for all the good suggestions! Next time...! | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Intermediate Member Username: Verell Post Number: 1012 Registered: 5-2001 |
BTW, what engine do you have a 2-valve 3x8 or a QV? Your profile doesn't say. With the old belts in place & before you loosen the tensioners, put the tranny in 5th, rotate the wheels backwards to take all of the slack out of the drive train & lock the parking brake. Now the engine cannot rotate backwards. (5th gear gives the parking brake maximum leverage against the engine.) The locked-up drive train will hold the cam gears against the bolt's break-away torque. I've broken it loose with a 1/2" breaker bar(hard to do & if the socket slips off of the bolt you can break your thumb!), or with a good 1/2" drive air wrench(much easier). The air wrench is greatly preferable as inertia is working for you. TIP: (takes at least 2 people) Once the cam bolts are broken loose, & before loosening the tensioners, rotate the engine forward until you've taken all of the slack out of the drive train (ie: the engine won't turn). Now have someone press the clutch in, & slowly rotate the engine forward until the flywheel is on PM1-4. Let out the clutch. Try to turn the engine. The drive train should keep it locked so it won't go past PM1-4! May take a couple of trys to get it spot on. Now, you can back the engine up a bit to get some slack to slip the belts on, then rotate it fwd & it'll still stop on PM1-4. Same thing w/tranny & parking brake locked up for torqueing the bolts. Get the new belts in place, line everything up, & lock the tensioners down. Then do the final torqueing of the cam gear bolts. | ||
| Mitchell Le (Yelcab1)
Member Username: Yelcab1 Post Number: 604 Registered: 11-2001 |
Peter That is NOT crazy at all. Hell that is exactly the tool I used during installation of the pulley and belts. I had to adjust the timing pulley eccentric holes (fine tuning) and for torquing it to spec, I had a second person hold the cam pulley with a plumber's wrench while I torqued it down. My engine was on a stand so at least I never attempted to break the window ... Phil. | ||
| Phil Hughes (Ferrarifixer)
New member Username: Ferrarifixer Post Number: 6 Registered: 7-2003 |
The better way to be sure of no nasty slips, is to loosen the bolts while the old belt is still installed and connected/timed correctly. You don't need to hold anything, as the impact gun action will not turn it much, if at all. Even if it does, it'll all turn together as long as there's plenty of belt tension. When the bolts are cracked off half a turn, re-align every thing clockwise properly and she'll be sweet! Remember though, removing the bolt will allow a gush of oil esp from the exhaust cams. And also remember that to do them up you MUST torque them, but again, just do it with the old belt. Footnote to all this......you really should use the opportunity to check and adjust for perfect cam timing, and the only way to do this is with the covers off...also, the cam seals tend to not seat correctly if you try to do it this way. It's much better to squeeze them in the sandwich between the covers with a clean surface and fresh silicon sealer. Another note, is to be careful when re-tightening not to slip and smash the rear window or dent the roof!...dont ask.... | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Advanced Member Username: Peter Post Number: 2958 Registered: 12-2000 |
Tuco, go ahead and replace the seals, you've come this far, might as well do it. I removed the pulleys when the cams were still on the engine, so you can too. Okay, here's how I held my cams:
You see, the old timing belt protects the pulley from the chain. The rubber belt provides a better grip too. This type of Vise-Grip has a strong hold and it never slipped on me. The impact has alot of force so brace the Vise-Grip properly. Keep in mind, my GT4 uses cast-iron pulleys and they feel stout enough to handle the loads of the Vise-Grip and the impact action/force. I wouldn't know if this method would work with later 308 plastic pulleys... Mitchell, I do take pictures of everything, but for this procedure, I had both my hands full (holding Vise-Grip and impact), so no pics of this process. I hope my description helps. See, I told you it was crazy... Using plumbing tools on a Ferrari engine... What next?!?  | ||
| Tuco Ramirez (Tuco)
New member Username: Tuco Post Number: 4 Registered: 5-2003 |
Thanks guys --- unfortunately my cams are still in the engine which is still in the car. I was attempting to replace the shaft seals during my timing belt replacement. But, based on what you all are reporting about how difficult yours were to free --- I think I better just forget, and wait for the next major service when there is some reason to have the cams out of the heads. thanks. | ||
| Mitchell Le (Yelcab1)
Member Username: Yelcab1 Post Number: 602 Registered: 11-2001 |
Peter We know you are crazy, what with welding your own engine removal apparatus in your garage, taking pictures of everything at every step of the way. You also happen to be one of the most respected member of the site whose opinions are level-headed and most helpful. Post the method, so what if the other self-proclaimed experts professional mechanics with $100,000 worth of special tools lifts and 5 shop cronies think it is crazy. We home mechanics need tricks that work, we want to see your tricks. I did not have a trick for this task. I just put it in a big vise with some cloth for protecting the surfaces and used an air impact wrench. | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Advanced Member Username: Peter Post Number: 2953 Registered: 12-2000 |
Tuco, use an impact wrench to remove the bolt. Obviously, fold-open the securing lock-tab tang on the hex of the bolt. CAREFULLY hold the cam somehow (best at/on the pulley), to keep it from spinning from the impact wrench (I won't suggest a method, as the one I used, most people would think its crazy...). The bolts are supposed to be torqued to 80 ft-lbs, so they'll require as much or more to break free. | ||
| Mitchell Le (Yelcab1)
Member Username: Yelcab1 Post Number: 601 Registered: 11-2001 |
Normal right handed thread. Clockwise to tighten, counter clockwise to loosen. Are the cam shafts off the car? In a vise? | ||
| Tuco Ramirez (Tuco)
New member Username: Tuco Post Number: 3 Registered: 5-2003 |
Does anyone know definitively whether the bolts attaching the sprockets to the cams are right-hand (normal) or left-hand (reverse) thread? Mine are tight as hell (probably staked with lock-tite). I want to know which way I need to turn to bust'em loose ---- I'm gonna have to gronk for all I'm worth, and I don't want to ruin my whole day by turning the wrong way! Thanks for the help! |