| Author |
Message |
Mark Foley (Sparky)
Junior Member
Username: Sparky
Post Number: 70
Registered: 3-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 06, 2003 - 2:26 pm: | |
I just did my 328 and I have a tip:
It appears as though the front bleeder screw was frozen and somebody taped a hole and put a 6mm bolt in. The bolt was frozen too, but PB Blaster freed it up.
Anyhow, I drilled out a couple of threaded studs and put a clear vinyl hose on each bleeder. This way you can run it for a while with the bleeders open and capture the fluid into a canister. The hoses were clamped-off and periodically released.
An after thought is that a brake bleeder screw could probably be used to attach the hoses to. It appears that the thread is 8mm fine thread.
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Gary Reed (Gary_reed)
Junior Member
Username: Gary_reed
Post Number: 145
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 06, 2003 - 12:29 pm: | |
Just a friendly reminder, when working with coolant, make sure any spills are cleaned up immediately. Coolant smells and tastes "sweet" to pets and toddlers, and it is extremely toxic. As little as a teaspoon will kill an animal. |
John Ottino (Tables)
New member
Username: Tables
Post Number: 4
Registered: 12-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 05, 2003 - 9:18 pm: | |
You might want to take the bleed screw out of the thermosat housing. If you get a lot of air in there it will not bleed out.You can do this when the engine is cold.In fact you could take both bleeders out make and you should have fluid coming out of both. Ther run the car until the thermosat is open. Then bleed the the rad. |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Intermediate Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 1027
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, August 03, 2003 - 7:53 pm: | |
(It's mostly already been said in this thread.)
1)BEFORE REFILLING/TOPPING OFF THE SYSTEM: Set the vent temp. levers to HOT, & open the radiator bleed valve. This ensures you bleed the two heater cores out thru the radiator as you fill the system. If you don't do this, you'll have a couple of quarts of air in the system.
If the system is pretty full, let it bleed until the air & foam are gone & only coolant is coming out, then close the valve until step 3.
2) Remove the coolant tank cap,
2a.check tank level & fill if below spec
3) Bleed the radiator until no foam, only coolant flows.
3a.Check tank level & fill if below spec
4) Bleed the thermostat until no foam, only coolant flows.
4a.check tank level & fill if below spec
6. Repeat 3 & 4 until only coolant comes out of the bleed valves.
7. Start up the engine, let it run until warm.
(NOTE: The coolant tank cap is still OFF so the system won't pressurise.
8. Repeat steps 3-6.
9. Replace coolant tank cap.
10. Drive it until good & hot (should NOT overheat) while still keeping the temp levers on HOT.
11. Let it cool down & repeat steps 3-6.
12. Adj the temp levers to suit yourself.
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"The Don" (The_don)
Senior Member
Username: The_don
Post Number: 6216
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, August 02, 2003 - 10:53 pm: | |
Also,
Make sure you wash off the spilled coolant with water to prevent possible damage to the body,paint.
Also, dried coolant is flamable. |
Phil Hughes (Ferrarifixer)
New member
Username: Ferrarifixer
Post Number: 26
Registered: 7-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, August 02, 2003 - 7:24 pm: | |
The correct way on most is engine off, car level or get the bleed screw high relative to tank.
Fill tank to near top to create head of coolant to push through system. Bleed until a bit more water than spit comes out. It may be necessary to push the water through by air pressure...either pressure tester or you can just blow it through with a bit of effort yourself.
With the engine running, the pump aeriates the water and although you can get it done, it simply takes much much longer.
A bleed followed by a short drive and another engine off bleed will see you right for months or 1000's miles....if the system is healthy.
Some models but mainly TR's tend to get sludge or corrosion in their bleeds, so complete removal and a clean out will normally get them going again. Put some anti seize on the threads when you put them back in again.
When filling an empty car, I fill as much as it will take, then push it through with tester and fill again. Sometimes it sets up a self filling syphon action and if your're quick and ready with all coolant on standby you can fill it in one go. |
JRV (Jrvall)
Intermediate Member
Username: Jrvall
Post Number: 2106
Registered: 11-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, August 02, 2003 - 10:50 am: | |
Leave the cap off, fill the tank, start the engine and idle with the bleeder open until you get a steady stream of liquid. Takes several minutes sometimes.
In the shop I often spend 20-30 minutes, bleeding, checking fans and re-bleeding to absolutely get all the trapped air out.. However I don't reccomend any novice playing with hot engines and potentialy scalding hot liquids. |
Jerry H (Jerry)
Junior Member
Username: Jerry
Post Number: 166
Registered: 3-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, August 02, 2003 - 10:22 am: | |
The level is good. Right where it should be. |
Philip Airey (Pma1010)
Member
Username: Pma1010
Post Number: 336
Registered: 7-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, August 02, 2003 - 10:10 am: | |
Jerry
You should get a hiss of air when the system is properly pressurized/coolant header tank is filled appropriately. How's the level of the coolant in the header tank? |
Jerry H (Jerry)
Junior Member
Username: Jerry
Post Number: 165
Registered: 3-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, August 02, 2003 - 9:55 am: | |
Running a little hot so I opened the thumb screw on the radiator with the engine running in hopes of purging any air in the coolant system. No bled at all. That is to say I got no coolant out of the valve. ???? is my 308 coolant system that different than a "regular" car? |