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Dave Helms (Davehelms)
Junior Member
Username: Davehelms

Post Number: 96
Registered: 5-2003
Posted on Monday, August 11, 2003 - 6:11 am:   

High voltage could stem from a lean flowing injector. Swap the plug, and the injector (one at a time)to another cylinder and see which is the cause. Also look closely at the plug extension. With it running with that high of resistance for a time, there may well be carbon tracking on them. I have a TR in the shop now, that had a coil wire that measured 12k. Add to that a lean set on the same bank, and it destroyed every extension on that bank.
David Feinberg (Fastradio2)
Member
Username: Fastradio2

Post Number: 271
Registered: 4-2002
Posted on Sunday, August 10, 2003 - 9:48 pm:   

Hank,

With "these" car, without good tools (diagnostic and hand), you're kind of stuck. A few years back, I owned a full service repair/mechanical restoration shop...Tools for everything, though alot of the serious diagnostic tools were sold with the business. The problems that seem to pop up on these F-cars, though usually simple in the end, can prove to be a bit challenging to diagnose....

And Yes, I do prefer the "best tools...Thank you.

Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member
Username: Henryk

Post Number: 1057
Registered: 8-2001
Posted on Sunday, August 10, 2003 - 9:31 pm:   

Hi David: I bought an OTC brand Spark Plug Voltage Tester, model #3141......I felt it was the best.

It has 3 readings......Min., Max., and Active......for each of the 3 settings. They (the settings) are: Spark KV.....the amount required for initial firing of the plug; Burn KV.....the amount of KV needed to maintain the spark; and, Burn Time mS......the lenght of the spark. Very simple to use.......one clip goes to a ground, and the other over the spark plug wire......I had to squeeze it due to the red cover over the wires on the TR.

I am tuning up my TR now, and this tool works great!!!!!!

I bought it from Toolsource.com company.......about $250.

BTW: I haven't used the vacuum gauge yet.....looking for appropriate connectors, but if I saw them in a store, this is exactly what I would have chosen. It seems that you and I like the best!!!!!!!!!


David Feinberg (Fastradio2)
Member
Username: Fastradio2

Post Number: 270
Registered: 4-2002
Posted on Sunday, August 10, 2003 - 9:09 pm:   

Henry,
Curious as to the type/brand spark plug voltage tester you're using...I'm trying to track down a plug fouling problem on my BB, and I have my doubts as to the quality of the new OE ignition components...

David
Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member
Username: Henryk

Post Number: 1056
Registered: 8-2001
Posted on Sunday, August 10, 2003 - 8:55 pm:   

Steve: I did measure, as you suspected, from the spark plug connector end to the inside of the distributor cap contact point, after cleaning them. Would you think the Ohm reading would increase that much, on EVERY wire, just because the wire is attached to the distributor cap?

I changed all plugs, and the car runs very smooth. However, putting a spark plug volt tester on the wires revealed that most of the plugs 1-12 needed 8K-14K Volts to fire the plug, with the exception of #3, which required 20K-30K Volts. I feel something is amiss in #3.

I did remove one wire to see the maximum coil output......it was 48K Volts.

Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member
Username: Henryk

Post Number: 1054
Registered: 8-2001
Posted on Sunday, August 10, 2003 - 12:34 pm:   

Thanks guys: I will take Steve's advice and re-measure the wire only. I did measure from the plug boot to the distributor cap contact.

With 70K miles I think I better get the new wires, caps and rotors anyway......can always use some spares.
rob guess (Beast)
Junior Member
Username: Beast

Post Number: 155
Registered: 5-2003
Posted on Sunday, August 10, 2003 - 12:16 pm:   

Henry;

If your wires are up at that level, it is time for a change. Eventhough you are not having a misfire with them, it will cause greater stress on the rest of your ignition components.

Rob
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member
Username: 91tr

Post Number: 2009
Registered: 1-2001
Posted on Sunday, August 10, 2003 - 11:50 am:   

Henry -- I've got a new set of TR wires (124171 and 124172) on the shelf and can confirm Dave H.'s results:
wire #12 = 1.728K ohms = 43" long
wire #7 = 915 ohms = 23" long
coil wire = 708 ohms = 18" long
They're all the same "wound-fine-wire" core construction like 308 wires so if you're measuring "dist cap contact -to- spark plug end" resistance you might do a fresh wire piercing at the distributor cap end and remeasure -- just a thought...
Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member
Username: Henryk

Post Number: 1053
Registered: 8-2001
Posted on Sunday, August 10, 2003 - 10:43 am:   

Dave: Isn't this low for resistor wires? Only 2 wires where within your range......the rest where at, or over 10K ohms. The car ran fine, but I decided to replace the plugs......it has been a while. The plugs where worn.
Dave Helms (Davehelms)
Junior Member
Username: Davehelms

Post Number: 95
Registered: 5-2003
Posted on Sunday, August 10, 2003 - 6:10 am:   

1.1K to 1.7K depending on length. Coil is about .6K
Henryk (Henryk)
Intermediate Member
Username: Henryk

Post Number: 1051
Registered: 8-2001
Posted on Saturday, August 09, 2003 - 9:42 pm:   

Does anyone know what the Ohm readings should be on the wires off an 88 TR (US version)? I know these are resistor wires, but what are the actual readings?


Thanks

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