| Author | Message | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 1663 Registered: 4-2002 |
Gee, Peter, you always have to do it the easy way. Takes all the fun out of it. <g> | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Advanced Member Username: Peter Post Number: 3000 Registered: 12-2000 |
I always found those little spacers in the rubber gasket to be a PIA. One day it dawned on me: "Why does the shoulder of the spacer have to face the bottom? If they're flipped over, the shoulder will keep them in the gasket as the air-box is lifted up". from then on, air-box removal for me is a snap and worry-free. I suppose the idea of the shoulder is to distribute the nuts clamping force to the carb top, but I don't see why it should make a difference flipped over in this case. And those Craftsman "Gear-Wrenches" make the job even easier... | ||
| Mitchell Le (Yelcab1)
Member Username: Yelcab1 Post Number: 630 Registered: 11-2001 |
Sears has those stubby nut drivers for this very same application. | ||
| Jerry Fisher (Emtrey)
New member Username: Emtrey Post Number: 14 Registered: 8-2003 |
John..that is similar to what a friend of mine did by cutting off a nut drive and welding a nut to the top that could be turned with a box ratchet. I like yours with the handle..could you give me the correct height dimension so I can make one up that will clear the deck without being too tall. I assume this allows any of the rear velocity stack nuts to be removed with the deck in place. Looks great..thanks | ||
| JohnR. (Rivee)
Member Username: Rivee Post Number: 259 Registered: 1-2002 |
Welded a 8mm 1/4" socket on to a cut off hex head driver.  | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 1659 Registered: 4-2002 |
Yeah, those brass spacers are a booger. They don't want to stay in the rubber gasket, but they don't want to stay on the studs either. As I lift the air cleaner assy off - from the right side, as there is a crankcase hose on the left that causes further irritation - I push, one at a time, the spacers down onto the studs as I gradually extract the A/C assy away. Another case Ferrari's design work to make the mechanic's life easier. | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 2015 Registered: 1-2001 |
Using a socket+extension+ratchet is the hard way IMO -- Hand Nut Driver for me:  Solves the problem Andy F. mentioned as the drive portion is much, much shorter than a socket. A 5/16" is a few thousands nominally smaller than 8mm, but either work OK. If you'll forgive me for stating something obvious -- you can remove the air cleaner element for more room/better access  . On the serious side, if this is your first extraction, there are 16 flanged brass spacers that are (usually) not well-retained in the thick rubber gaskets. They can fall out the bottom of the gaskets as you lift the airbox over the studs so be forwarned (this gets doubly-tricky if you're simultaneous trying to do this with the decklid on -- had to remove the decklid on my ex-'78). And really guys -- the studs should be double-nutted fully into the carb bodies with some small-screw Loctite so they don't come out when you remove the Nylock nuts. | ||
| Jerry Fisher (Emtrey)
New member Username: Emtrey Post Number: 13 Registered: 8-2003 |
Lee-if you did this from the rear of the car, wasn't that setup too high to clear the open deck lid. The red arrow in the attached photo points to one of the 4 rear nuts that I can not seem to get to. I would appreciate a bit more detail if you do not mind. thanks  | ||
| Lee Hamner (Tennlee)
Junior Member Username: Tennlee Post Number: 156 Registered: 2-2002 |
I took mine off using a 4 inch extension on a 1/4" rachet and a long socket. | ||
| Andy Falsetta (Tuttebenne)
Junior Member Username: Tuttebenne Post Number: 232 Registered: 3-2003 |
Just the nuts are supposed to come off, but my car too has studs that tend to come out with the nuts. I have found that the only way to get these out is with an open end wrench. A socket might loosen them a few turns but will soon wedge under the intake trumpet. Take your time, don't have any caffiene the day you do it and leave the bonnet on. This job is easy enough to leave it on. Best wishes | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 1657 Registered: 4-2002 |
I assume you must be talking about a GTB/GTS car. On a GT4, it's a straight foward job. Sears (and others) have closed-end socket wrenches that have a ratchet mechanism, requiring only 5deg of movement to work. You should be able to get one of these on the nuts, assuming that you can't get an ordinary socket on from the top. Loosening/tightening at only 5deg at a time would be a major PITA, however......... Or, you should be able to get an 8mm 1/4" drive socket on the nuts. Then it's a matter of finding a slim head ratchet and the proper length extension. | ||
| Mitchell Le (Yelcab1)
Member Username: Yelcab1 Post Number: 626 Registered: 11-2001 |
Someone suggested a full removal of the rear deck. A two man job with a winch. Those nuts are 8 mm. After the deck is removed, a straight 8 mm driver will work fine. | ||
| Jerry Fisher (Emtrey)
New member Username: Emtrey Post Number: 11 Registered: 8-2003 |
any suggestions as to a tool to remove the rear studs that hold the velocity stacks in place on carb 308s . This assumes the rear deck lid is on the car. Also what size are those nuts. Very little space for socket or wrench. Anyone have a "better mousetrap"???? |