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Steve Herbert (Zigno)
New member
Username: Zigno

Post Number: 10
Registered: 7-2003
Posted on Monday, August 18, 2003 - 12:28 pm:   

Verell, I tried that first. Went to open the tank to check the coolent level but it was under pressure and completely full. Coolent squirted everywhere! Cleaned up the mess, thought about it , couple days later first bled the rad. to take the pressure off the tank, then opened the tank, then bled the rad. again which released more air and resulted in the proper level being achieved. So yes you are right, I did need to open the tank to do a proper bleed.
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Intermediate Member
Username: Verell

Post Number: 1077
Registered: 5-2001
Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2003 - 10:44 pm:   

Steve,
Did you mean to say "I should have opened the coolant tank & then bled the radiator."
(Which is the proper way as air has to enter the coolant tank in order for fluid to flow thru the system to replace the air being bled out at the bleed points.)

John,
I see you managed to get the clutch disc aligned somehow - GREAT!
John Wise (Jwise)
Junior Member
Username: Jwise

Post Number: 53
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2003 - 10:10 pm:   

Bill- Yes,I was at Limerock. My car was parked in a regular lot- I noticed the group of ferraris later in the day.
The tank has only one line but the level does change slightly depending on the temp of the coolant. Some must flow back while it cools. I have no idea- I never really paid attention.
I think what Steve said is right. The tube goes down to the bottom of the tank and is well sealed through the cap. Hope this helps.
Steve Herbert (Zigno)
New member
Username: Zigno

Post Number: 9
Registered: 7-2003
Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2003 - 2:57 pm:   

It appears that my checking the coolent level for the first time was done backwards. I should have bled the radiator first, then opened the coolent tank. After bleeding the rad. cold, (some air a nd some bubbly coolent) the coolent in the tank went down to the proper level 6cm below the top. The new cap purchased by previous owner is a 0.9 bar 4 ear cap. All seems well. The overflow tank sounds like a great idea and I believe the coolent returns via the same tube from which it exits as long as the end of the tube is near the bottom of the overflow tank.
Bill V (Doc)
Member
Username: Doc

Post Number: 415
Registered: 9-2001
Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2003 - 8:40 am:   

John--your tank looks like it's just a puke tank--ie, that it just catches the spillover from the overflow tube. It doesn't have a return line into the tank somewhere , does it ?

By the way, were you at Lime Rock--I think I saw your car there. I was parked in the VIP lot as well--my car one of the few US spec QV's there.
Steven R. Rochlin (Enjoythemusic)
Member
Username: Enjoythemusic

Post Number: 659
Registered: 4-2002
Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2003 - 7:02 am:   

Bill V,

Forgot to mention, the F caps are known to be problemmatic at times as have read postings on Fchat about them... even new out of wrapper. i'd suggest getting the STANT mentioned below.

Enjoy the Drive,

Steven R. Rochlin
Steven R. Rochlin (Enjoythemusic)
Member
Username: Enjoythemusic

Post Number: 658
Registered: 4-2002
Posted on Saturday, August 16, 2003 - 10:22 pm:   

John,

Thanks for posting the pic! The 85 308GTS QV here does not have that plastic overflow tank. Overflow goes out the usual tube below. As for a proper cap, got a Fiat equiv at VIP Automotive that works great.

STANT 11229 (about $10 or so and handles 13 lbs of pressure).

Hope this helps someone out there.

Enjoy the Drive,

Steven R. Rochlin

John Wise (Jwise)
Junior Member
Username: Jwise

Post Number: 52
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Saturday, August 16, 2003 - 9:22 pm:   

Wow-
After looking at this photo- I realized that tank sure needs a cleaning.
John Wise (Jwise)
Junior Member
Username: Jwise

Post Number: 51
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Saturday, August 16, 2003 - 9:20 pm:   

Bill-
Here is the overflow tank on my 308 QV. Not the best photo, but I was excited to take her for a drive. I had just finished the clutch. Everything works well.Upload
John Wise (Jwise)
New member
Username: Jwise

Post Number: 50
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Friday, August 15, 2003 - 8:46 am:   

Bill,
I'll post a pic here of the overflow tank this weekend or Monday- no problemo. Check back later.
I bled the system a month ago and there was no air in it. Maybe this tank helps that. I never thought about it.
Bill V (Doc)
Member
Username: Doc

Post Number: 414
Registered: 9-2001
Posted on Thursday, August 14, 2003 - 8:19 pm:   

John--could you post a pic of your overflow tank set-up ? It sounds like a good idea.
Bill V (Doc)
Member
Username: Doc

Post Number: 413
Registered: 9-2001
Posted on Thursday, August 14, 2003 - 8:18 pm:   

It's curious that the coolant level is so high that it spills out of f the cap, but not out of the overflow tube. Could this be as simple as a pinched-off or clogged overflow tube? Just a thought.
John Wise (Jwise)
New member
Username: Jwise

Post Number: 49
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Thursday, August 14, 2003 - 2:40 pm:   

My Euro 308 QV has a seperate plastic coolant tank next to the expansion tank for overflow. It's the only one I've seen on a 308.
Steve Herbert (Zigno)
New member
Username: Zigno

Post Number: 7
Registered: 7-2003
Posted on Thursday, August 14, 2003 - 12:12 pm:   

My concern is that it is not puking when I think it should. My new cap has 4 ears and is the right color so I'm thinking it is the upgraded 1.1 bar cap. With the tank full to the top and pressurized when cold and it did not puke after 175 miles on a hot day (Sacramento, Ca to the central coast) upon shutdown, there must be air somewhere compressing when the coolent expands allowing the non-puking situation. If the system was 100% coolent and no air, and if the cap was working correctly, it would puke when the coolent expands...and that is why there needs to be air space in the coolent tank, so that air can compress and not puke out coolent. So, my air is in the wrong place!!!!
Matt Morgan (Kermit)
Junior Member
Username: Kermit

Post Number: 146
Registered: 8-2001
Posted on Thursday, August 14, 2003 - 10:55 am:   

I have found that the addition of a separate small tank, similar to what is commonly required in some forms of racing. On the tracks, these are fondly called "puke tanks", as their function is to catch any overflow, this keeping it off the track surface. By feeding it at the bottom,and thus allowing it to draw the coolant back in on cool down, it allows a bit more capacity, and that can really help the trapped air problem.
dave handa (Davehanda)
Intermediate Member
Username: Davehanda

Post Number: 1584
Registered: 5-2001
Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 7:49 pm:   

The caps are kind of gold or brass colored. The oem "two ears" cap is rated at .9 bar pressure, the later, upgraded cap (four ears)is rated at 1.1 bar. I would use the later cap, as Ferrari upgraded for a reason, I'm sure...

BTW, when cold, the coolant should be 6cm below the filler neck of the expansion tank in the engine compartment. Anything higher is too much and will likely be spit out... (or should be) Usually it will do this shortly after shut down...don't know why...
Steve Herbert (Zigno)
New member
Username: Zigno

Post Number: 6
Registered: 7-2003
Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 2:42 pm:   

Hmmmmmm. I'm going to warm it up, turn on the heat, bleed the radiator, and see what happens.
Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member
Username: 4re_gt4

Post Number: 1665
Registered: 4-2002
Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 2:08 pm:   

Not sure what it *should* look like, as mine seems to have been replaced at some point.

I've heard that the shape is representative of pressure (ie - the 'square' ones are .9 bar, IIRC). Some people replace the low pressure cap with a higher one, as it raises the boiling point. Problem is it also raises pressure, and I not sure that is good.
Steve Herbert (Zigno)
New member
Username: Zigno

Post Number: 5
Registered: 7-2003
Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 12:51 pm:   

Thanks Hans, what does the correct cap look like? Mine is sort of a shiny gold, bronze, copper color with no markings of any kind on top. The book calls for a 12.7lb. cap. Maybe there is air somewhere else in the system that compressed when the coolent expanded.
Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member
Username: 4re_gt4

Post Number: 1664
Registered: 4-2002
Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 12:32 pm:   

Make sure you have the right cap. But this is a little weird, as driven in hot weather should have expanded the coolant (even if it doesn't get to boiling, it will expand some) enough that some should have burped out, leaving at least a bit of headroom when cold.

Even if the radiator was bled previously, it is VERY common that these cars will need it a time or two again. Check the archives for proceedure....it seems everybody has their favorite method!
Steve Herbert (Zigno)
New member
Username: Zigno

Post Number: 4
Registered: 7-2003
Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 12:24 pm:   

Hi everyone. Just got my first Ferrari, a 1978 308 GTS, and upon checking things over noticed the coolent tank is completely full and under pressure. With a completely cold engine, it squirted coolent when I tried to remove the cap. I'm thinking it is too full and has the wrong (new) cap....not releasing pressure through the overflow tube. The radiator was just serviced and supposedly bled correctly prior to my purchase. A 37,500 mile car with most major services up to date. Was driven 175 miles in 95+ temps. in this condition. Lucky I didn't blow a hose or split the radiator?

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