| Author | Message | ||
| Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member Username: Pupz308 Post Number: 492 Registered: 10-2002 |
I got Bussmann GBC glass fuses from here: http://doitbest.com/shop/product.asp?mscssid=EPLEWRK47Q218JBVCVJEXACAC1UVCJ1D&mbrid=4724&dept%5Fid=4663&sku=570710 SKU 570656, glass tube fuse assortment. You want the GBC ones for "german" cars, #KG-5. Place is called Aubuchon Hardware, under the domain name doitbest.com. I found their service to be excellent, and their online shopping/checkout software was very mature. Shipped really fast. Here's the details from my order: SKU Qty Description Cost ------------------------------------------------------- 570656 12 Fuse Assortments: For German $14.28 ----------- Subtotal: $14.28 (USPS Priority Mail) Shipping: $5.50 Tax: $0.00 Total: $19.78 | ||
| Gerrit Visser (Gerritv)
Junior Member Username: Gerritv Post Number: 208 Registered: 6-2001 |
Tazio Give me a call, I will show you what to get (Will bring it to work with me. Time we had lunch anyway :-) | ||
| Tazio Nuvolari (Nuvolari)
Member Username: Nuvolari Post Number: 270 Registered: 9-2002 |
Problem Found: The fuse block was melted causing the 2 fuses that power the 2 fans to not get any juice. The fuse block melted because the horn/clock/ligher fuse worked its way loose causing a short. This solves my intermittent clock problem (it keeps good time but tended to start and stop from time to time) and is the source of the fan problem. Everything else checks out. Well I am off to glass fuses and will replace my whole fuse block for an aftermarket one. Off to the archives!!! | ||
| Stephen E. Schroeder (Seschroeder)
Junior Member Username: Seschroeder Post Number: 76 Registered: 4-2002 |
If the fans are working you might wish to consider a Hayden fan controller. If you search FChat under Hayden fan controller I believe you will find to "links". The unit has worked well for me on both the Ferrari and Corvette. In addition, I believe that it offers some advantages over the stock control. | ||
| Carl Jones (Carl888)
New member Username: Carl888 Post Number: 4 Registered: 7-2003 |
Gee, I'm famous, funny to see that text from Robert's 308 GTB website ;) make sure you also check the electrical system/fusebox. Most 308 electrical problems stem from that horrid riveted fusebox. Read the section on the electrical system too as that is also relevant to the fans. Good luck, Carl. | ||
| Robert W. Garven Jr. (Robertgarven)
Junior Member Username: Robertgarven Post Number: 240 Registered: 2-2002 |
Rob, here is a picture of the ground wire and my new motor. Mikes info is right on BTW  Rob | ||
| Mike Procopio (Pupz308)
Member Username: Pupz308 Post Number: 489 Registered: 10-2002 |
Reference... http://www.r-design.net/308/techtip3.htm ...for some excellent information about the cooling system (and other good technical information for our carb 308s). Here's one relevant paragraph from the above link about checking the operation of the radiator fans: For this next check, I suggest you remove the fuse for the fuel pump. It will stop your carburettors being primed with fuel unnecessarily. With the motor not running and cold, but with the ignition in the "run" position, switch on the air conditioning. The right hand electric fan should come on. Now remove the two wires that fit on to the temperature sender at the base of the radiator. (figure 37) With the air conditioning still on, short out these two wires. The left hand fan should run. Now switch off the air conditioning but keep the two wires shorted. Both fans should still be running. If not, this is why your car will run hot when at a standstill. If the fans worked when the wiring was shorted but don't come on when the car is hot, then suspect the sender in the radiator. Remove it and check the continuity when the unit is placed in boiling water. It should close circuit at 84 degrees c. and open at 75 degrees c. If the sender is OK it may just be a case of having a dirty connection. --Mike 78 308 GTS #23785 | ||
| Robert W. Garven Jr. (Robertgarven)
Junior Member Username: Robertgarven Post Number: 239 Registered: 2-2002 |
Rob, I just went trough all of this, If neither fan is working when you jump the switch, it could be the ground on the fans, also check the fuses and the relays. I had a bad fan brush. Like the nut I am I replaced both fans with OEM lucas fans. It is usually 75 degrees all year long where I live so I decided against the uprgraded QV fans. Both fans should come on when you jump the switch, the right drivers side (i think) come on at a certain temp, the left one comes on any time you turn on the AC or when the temps come up. Rob | ||
| dave handa (Davehanda)
Intermediate Member Username: Davehanda Post Number: 1605 Registered: 5-2001 |
Rob, You are pretty technical, so not sure if I can add much, but I would make sure you did the test with the ignition "on". Then go to the damn fuse blocks and check all the connections there, and make sure you have power there. You might try running power right off the battery just to make sure in the off chance that both motors decided to die at the same time.... | ||
| Tazio Nuvolari (Nuvolari)
Member Username: Nuvolari Post Number: 268 Registered: 9-2002 |
Well 2400 miles into ownership and I have developed my first little glitch; my cooling fans are not working. I know this has been discussed in the past but of course when I need it I can't find it (I searched A LOT). How do I diagnose where the problem lies? and what are some common problem areas to keep my eyes open for? So far I have only just manually jumped the 2 cables that go to the rad thermal switch and the fans did not start so I assume it is something else. At least I don't have to drain the cooling system. Well guys what do you all think? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Rob 1977 308 GTB #20783 |