| Author | Message | ||||
| rob guess (Beast)
Junior Member Username: Beast Post Number: 228 Registered: 5-2003 |
I know a few friends that have tried Z-Max and found it to be more advertising hype. A couple of them even had there fuel mileage drop after using it. They have yet to get a refund since they want you to jump thru hoops and stand on your head for a refund. | ||||
| Dr Tommy Cosgrove (Vwalfa4re)
Intermediate Member Username: Vwalfa4re Post Number: 1269 Registered: 5-2001 |
What about Z-MAX? | ||||
| Ali Haas (Aehaas)
Junior Member Username: Aehaas Post Number: 82 Registered: 5-2003 |
These articles sum it up. I have spent years doing oil research and did not comment earlier as I had just too much to say. Also, I have put out numerous tid bits in numerous forums before. The most important thing I can say to all car owners of newer engines (or old engines with low milage or little wear) is use thinner oils to get better lubrication, not thicker ones. If your oil pressure is more than 20 PSI at operating temperature for every 1,000 RPM you are too thick, way too thick. The best range is to get 10 to 15 PSI per 1,000 RPM at the temperature you normally run your engine. Days on the track may require a thicker oil and around town a thinner oil. There is no one oil that is good for both. Racing engines use non detergent oils as described in the longer article. They may use more zinc. But most unknown to us is that they use thin oils like 5 and 10 weight in their high revving , hot engines. The lubrication function of oil is more of a flow function, not a static one -as you feel when you rub that thick 20-50 oil between your fingers. aehaas | ||||
| Dom Vitarella (Dom)
Member Username: Dom Post Number: 409 Registered: 11-2002 |
ALong these same lines, here's an Oil FAQ that I picked up a while ago also.
Again, I can't vouch for the accuracy, but it does seem legit. Dom | ||||
| Dom Vitarella (Dom)
Member Username: Dom Post Number: 407 Registered: 11-2002 |
I found the attached article years ago regarding snake oil additives. Interesting read, supposedly was published in a motorcycle magazine in the early 90's.
Dom | ||||
| Keith Mahan (Gyrokeith)
New member Username: Gyrokeith Post Number: 34 Registered: 4-2003 |
I have tried many types of additives in search of that "magic" mix to make engines last longer. They fall into 2 major types.. Slick-50 and other PTFE particulate type additives are filled with small, powdered teflon (this also goes for moly based and graphite based compounds) granules , less than 10 microns, that act as "ball bearings" to fill micro-sized voids in surfaces and cushion shock loads. They can build up in filters and crevases in the engine. I use this only for higher mileage, "loose" engines. Quiets engine and extends the life, especially if wear is evident like valvetrain noise. Seems to lose it's effectiveness after 3-5 k miles. Dura-lube and other chlorine based additives, like Motor-up and Prolong. The chlorine changes the film strength and makes the oil more "slippery". Also tends to quiet noisy valvetrains. I use this in all my engines and put some in my Ferrari the first day I had it. It doesnt last as long, maybe 1500 miles, so I tend to add a half a quart or so every oil change and put small amounts in every 1000 miles or so to finish off the quart. After 100s of thousands of miles I have determined a few things from these formulas. If they lower the engine temp few will ever know because for the most part we use thermostats which control the engine temperature. I have noticed a small increase in highway milage, maybe 2 MPG or so. And yes, an engine will last longer if you use them. Just remember that there is no way to stop the inevitable wearing out of your engine. Even if your compression never drops a pound in 200k miles (like my 194k geo tracker) the valves will start to burn and you will need a rebuild. Just remember that if you were to change your regular dyno oil every 1200-1500 miles you would get the same effect. Those oil engineers are smart people, too. They do good lubricants. I have found that at a minimum you should warm your engine every cold start. Just a minute or so goes a long way to fighting that engine rebuild off. If you have fresh seals then use Mobil one or maybe those terrific Red line products. They hold their film strength to extreme temps and last several times longer than the dyno oils. Many oils contain zinc dithiophosphate, commonly known as STP oil treatment. I add half a jar of that, too. Don't fall for the hype either way. I've personally never seen an engine failure as a result of too thick or viscus oil or too cool running of an engine. It does help and rarely can cause any damage to improve your oil. Just don't look for a miracle cause it isn't in a small can! | ||||
| rob guess (Beast)
Junior Member Username: Beast Post Number: 216 Registered: 5-2003 |
My last 2 vehicles Have used nothing but Mobil 1 ofter break in with great results. My Ford E-150 had 432,000 + miles on it when i sold it. My F-150 4X4 had 118,000 + when i traded it in. In both motors they had never been opened up for repair, compression was still with in standard spec. Not once did they ever have slick-50, Lucas, or any other oil additives added to them. Rob | ||||
| Al Johnson (Bigal)
Junior Member Username: Bigal Post Number: 143 Registered: 3-2002 |
I have used a metal condioner product called "Militec" (http://www.militec-1.com) in my Triumph, Pantera and Ford Ranger and have seen excellent results. Engines are quieter and the trannies all shift much smoother. Haven't seen any gas mileage increases that are claimed. Will soon add to the 308. I was turned on to it by a Porsche guy who said he had rough 1-2 shifts until he put some in his tanny. He said a number of Porsche owners use it. I have been curious about another metal condioner, zMax. Might give it a try. | ||||
| Bill Bode (Rollinghillbill)
New member Username: Rollinghillbill Post Number: 1 Registered: 8-2003 |
The discussion about Slick-50 and other PTFE/teflon particulate oil additives caused me to recall that the TEXACO Company marketed a motor oil in the late 1960's and early 1970's that consisted of their standard weight motor oils with the addition of micro-particulate graphite. As TEXACO is a major international oil company, I was positive that they had tested their product extensively and felt that it was an improvement upon their regular motor oils. TEXACO claimed that the graphite particles would not be removed by passage through an oil filter. I used their graphited motor oil in my 69 Mustang without problems. The car now has over 350,000 miles on the odometer and the engine has never been opened, but this is probably due to the "bullet-proof" reputation of Ford's cast iron 302 V-8 and my frequent oil & filter changes. TEXACO's graphited motor oil was discontinued due to poor sales to the general public due to its pitch-black color, which probably reminded people of old unchanged contaminated oil. | ||||
| Robert W. Garven Jr. (Robertgarven)
Member Username: Robertgarven Post Number: 255 Registered: 2-2002 |
I also use the marvels mystery oil to in my gas about twice a year, I was told it was good for the fuel pump. | ||||
| Dr Tommy Cosgrove (Vwalfa4re)
Intermediate Member Username: Vwalfa4re Post Number: 1267 Registered: 5-2001 |
Something is a bad product because it was invented by a truck driver and his wife in his kitchen? I need a better arguement then that. How does the Slick-50 clog up an oil filter? Maybe the reason I have never had a problem is because I change the oil/filter often and it never gets a chance. | ||||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 2046 Registered: 1-2001 |
I've been using Marvell Mystery Oil (which is a non-particulate lightish "oil") at ~5% by volume in the engine oil. | ||||
| Matt Morgan (Kermit)
Junior Member Username: Kermit Post Number: 147 Registered: 8-2001 |
I have long looked at the additive issue, with very little success as to REAL effects. Going down the additive isle in any parts store and reading the cans is a study in "Blue Sky" promises too often. Some of them are amusing if one does not take offense at our intelligence being insulted. I haven't tried the Lucas product though sounds like a possible real help. On thing I would share from my research in that arena is many use Clorene as a part of the blend. Oddly enough it does help reduce friction, but the corrosion issue concerns me. Hope that sheds a bit of light. Enjoy! | ||||
| Robert W. Garven Jr. (Robertgarven)
Member Username: Robertgarven Post Number: 254 Registered: 2-2002 |
Allot of people on the f-list made fun of me for using it, as supposedly the inventor and his truck driving wife concocted it in their kitchen. Stranger things have happened I guess. There is the guy that invented the stuff in his basement that is completelt fire retardent for builing materials. The lucas stuff seems to bind with the oil making it stick to all the parts, I can attest to it being real hard to clean up!!! It also is supposed to lessen gear noise and slow down leaks, etc. It doesn't taste that bad either!! Rob | ||||
| Mitch Alsup (Mitch_alsup)
Member Username: Mitch_alsup Post Number: 987 Registered: 4-2002 |
Slick 50 and friends are known to clog up oil filters. Notice that every major oil company and every auto manufacture specifies the use of (SG) oil WIHTOUT these kinds of additives! I am only picking of the products with PTFE and teflon particulates. | ||||
| Newman (Newman)
Intermediate Member Username: Newman Post Number: 1280 Registered: 12-2001 |
Thanks Mike. | ||||
| Mike Charness (Mcharness)
Member Username: Mcharness Post Number: 921 Registered: 8-2002 |
Newman, their website is www.lucasoil.com  I also use their fuel injection additive (though I used to use Chevron Techron, which is also certainly good) | ||||
| Newman (Newman)
Intermediate Member Username: Newman Post Number: 1278 Registered: 12-2001 |
Never heard of Lucas oil additive, may be an american thing but Ill look into it. I wouldnt mind a little something extra in there. | ||||
| Robert W. Garven Jr. (Robertgarven)
Member Username: Robertgarven Post Number: 252 Registered: 2-2002 |
I am using Lucas oil additive. I am running castrol 20/50. the first time I used it I spilled some on the floor and could not get the stuff off, i was impressed. I have heard some builders use it for assembly lube. I am not sure it works but in the manual it says to add some moly additive. Unlike slick 50 etc the lucas is an oil product and will not be filtered out.I heard of it from my brother in law who builds parts for top fuel dragsters. Rob | ||||
| Mike Charness (Mcharness)
Member Username: Mcharness Post Number: 917 Registered: 8-2002 |
I do use Lucas Oil additive to supplement my Castrol 20/50 or Valvoline Racing oil. Got interested by that gear crank display at Autozone. Then checked out the company and they have been very involved in racing. And they also are a sponsor/contributor to the Ferrari Club in our region. I figure it can't hurt. Hey, we put in additives to clean the fuel injectors... why don't all gasolines have them already there, or is it really just Chevron and Texaco that do (or are they just the only ones that choose to highlight it in their marketing). Anyway, I do use LucasOil additive in my Ferrari. Does it really help? I don't know for sure, but I think it probably does improves the "dry start" metal-to-metal issue. | ||||
| Dr Tommy Cosgrove (Vwalfa4re)
Intermediate Member Username: Vwalfa4re Post Number: 1264 Registered: 5-2001 |
I have used them in all my cars, including the 308, with no ill effects so far (except to my wallet I guess). The 308 has nearly 86,000 miles and runs very, very strong. I have used it in my 1980 Scirocco for at least 10 years and close to 300,000 miles. I guess that is proof that it WON'T hurt, at least, a VW engine | ||||
| dave handa (Davehanda)
Intermediate Member Username: Davehanda Post Number: 1692 Registered: 5-2001 |
Personally, I don't believe in them, as there seems to be a real shortage of verifiable testing done; it all seems to ride on heresay. I stick with using a high quality synthetic and not worry about it. Shoot, why is it my Honda has 165k on it, changing the Mobil 1 oil every 6k miles and it runs like a top...yet a Ferrari I change it every 3k miles and can expect a rebuild in 60 to 80k miles? | ||||
| jeff ryerson (Atheyg)
Member Username: Atheyg Post Number: 389 Registered: 8-2002 |
Its crap,Prolong Slick 50, and another they sell at Napa I can't think of the name May work for a while but since it coats the parts and doesn't drain out with oil changes it will turn to a varnish when it gets old The best oil brands have additives which protect engines during start up | ||||
| Newman (Newman)
Intermediate Member Username: Newman Post Number: 1277 Registered: 12-2001 |
Just wondered if anyone is using such additives in their engines. im considering slick50 to help with those dry starts where oil pressure isnt instant after sitting. I dont feel like adding a preoiler system although it would be best. |
Upload