| Author | Message | ||
| TomD (Tifosi)
|
as tight as you can get it | ||
| Gene B. Radcliffe - 308 GTS (Brcbank)
|
What's the proper torque on those A, B, C and D plugs for draining and filling the oil and differential? | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
|
Ooops! Drain tap on rad - bottom left corner on mine (I forgot already where it was!) | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
|
It isn't difficult, but it can be messy. I found when draining my car, the drain taps on the bottom of the radiator and on the engine block weren't enough. Disconnecting the hoses on the bottom pipes at the front of the car and letting the car down a bit (if it was placed on four jack-stands, the front two lowered a bit) helped drain the rest of the system. Also, unconnecting the small hose on the bottom for the heater system will drain most out as well. The only pictures I have related to this are of my radiator (when I removed it to flush it out and paint it). The drain tap is on the bottom right corner (but could be up front for your 328. I'm not sure).   The drain tap for the engine block, could be under the rear bank of cylinders, just above and to the right of the differential, or in front, above the starter. Either of these two websites have good procedures for cooling system flushing (not sure about pictures though): http://www.expensivecar.com http://home.att.net/~ferrari/index.htm | ||
| 1989 328 GTS (Vilamoura2002)
|
Tks very much for your help.Now I understand how it works. Owner's Manual is not very clear about this. There is another step I would like to do myself but I will not take that risk - drain cooling system and refill. I have read about this and I think it is difficult, specially draining the engine cooling system. If you know a link that explains this procedure easily,(specially with pictures) please let me know. I never do anything in the car before I am sure I am able to do it. The biggest problem is that I enjoy doing it and sometimes I get to much enthousiasm :-) and do several things at the same time. | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
|
Making sure the car is level before you drain. Just a added precaution. | ||
| Christian Kienle (Christiank)
|
I agree with Steve. I would also open plug D for better flow of the oil and let it drain through hole A. I would let it sit like that for about 1 hour. | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
|
E.S. -- Herbert's method is simpliest, but since you filled up the main reservoir thru cap A first and then added 1,5 litres thru cap D you are overfilled (the excess oil you put thru cap D will overflow into the cap A reservoir) -- just remove cap A and let the extra oil drain out then all should be OK. Check the "Lubricants and Liquids" section of your Owner's Manual -- it should have a drawing showing the relative fluid levels in each reservoir. | ||
| Herbert Edward Gault (Irfgt)
|
The easiest way is to make sure the car is level, then remove plug A and fill the entire unit through plug D until oil flows from the hole at plug a. This will ensure the transfer case is properly filled and there is no measuring. Simple. | ||
| 1989 328 GTS (Vilamoura2002)
|
Quantity of oil on the clutch housing cap? I have just replaced the oil at the Gear-box and the differencial. I let out the used oil from plug B underneath the gear box and from plug C underneath the clutch.   I re-filled through cap A up to the hole lower edge. Now my question is. How much oil do I have to put through the cap D on the clutch house?  I did put around 1,5 litres but I think it does not need to be filled up. The manual says 100 gr. of oil.( That means about 0.12 litres) Is this enough? Do I have to take out the oil I put too much? I didn't drive the car yet because I am afraid I am doing something very wrong. Will you please advise me? | ||
| Christian Kienle (Christiank)
|
I feel better with the two circuits. Wonder why they changed it. Definetely not a safety improvement. | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
|
Christian -- our TRs must be different in this respect as I can confirm that my '91/US TR has just a single reservoir supplying the brake master cylinder directly and supplying the clutch master cylinder via a tube from the same reservoir. | ||
| Christian Kienle (Christiank)
|
Steve: No, that's what drove me crazy in the beginning because the manual says so. The clutch reservoir is beside the brake fluid reservoirs hidden under the carpet in the trunk. It's closer to the middle of the car. Have fun opening the lid, the stuff was 14 years old in my case, you only deal with 10. Christian | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
|
Pauli, I would stick with the same Castrol Syn. oil that the car has been used to running on. Since your weather is warmer and you want to go with a diferrent viscosity, 10-50 or 20-50 I don't see any problem there but I would stick with the Castrol Syn. oil. | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
|
Christian -- don't the clutch and the brakes on a TR share the same fluid reservoir? | ||
| Pauli Salmu (Psalmu)
|
I didn't need to know much about oils with my previous "car", so now I'm trying to educate myself and found this site that looks pretty good (has also info on the additive scams): http://www.geocities.com/chrislonghurst/engineoil_bible.html It links to this site http://rconcepts.com/beard/dragnet/drag/oilinfo.html which states that you should always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter because it's not good to have more than necessary of the additive polymers in the oil. Question: my 328 has now Castrol Synthetic 5W50 (by the previous owner). Owner's manual recommends 10W50 and the temperature range here in Hawaii is really narrow. Would it be better to continue using 5W50 or to change to a "lesser" oil? I've seen some rumors that "downgrading" from the previous oil isn't good either. | ||
| Christian Kienle (Christiank)
|
I put DOT 5 in my TR's clutch instead of DOT 4. Guess how I figured out? Luckily I did not use it in the brake system. Now i know how to install a clutch and seals  . | ||
| 1989 328 GTS (Vilamoura2002)
|
I was almost making a big mistake.  My manual says DOT4, but a stupid guy on the shop convinced me to buy Lockheed Supreme DOT 5.1, explaining me that is not corrosive and does NOT absorb water, like DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid. ....water in DOT 3/4 fluid lowers its boiling point.... ...and is a non-silicone DOT 5.1 fluid, compatible with DOT 3/4 Anyway I'll put DOT4 ... I am not opened to new experiences unless they end very well. Tks very much for your help. | ||
| TomD (Tifosi)
|
valvoline makes a hp one compatible with DOT 3 and 4 | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
|
I use Ford DOT 3 in my car. Its a high performance type of DOT 3 with a higher boiling temp of 550°F (most DOT 3's only can go to 450°F). This is what is avaliable here in North America (I don't know if Euro Fords would use the same). | ||
| Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
|
If DOT 5 is silicone, then yes it should be NOT compatable with DOT 3 SYSTEMS. There are silicone specific brake systems, all others should be using the DOT spec that is stated on the brake master cylinder or in the manual. Changing from one to another could be DANGEROUS. -Ben | ||
| 1989 328 GTS (Vilamoura2002)
|
My intention is to put ALL new oils and NOT to refill. Are there any incompatibilities? | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
|
Yeah I remember something like that too from a previous post. I just use DOT3 in my car. | ||
| Timothy J. Dressel (Tjd)
|
I have some recollection of being told that DOT 5 is silicone based and is very incompatible with the DOT 3 & 4 fluid and systems. Definitely verify it's OK before using the DOT 5. --tim d | ||
| Christian Kienle (Christiank)
|
I would not use DOT 5 if the manual recommends DOT 3 | ||
| TomD (Tifosi)
|
I think in the US most guys are using the Baldwin 253 filter instead of UFI. I think most use mobil synthetic in the tranny, not sure about the brake though DOT5.1 should be good. For engine oil Mobil 1 is fine but I am curious why you would use 0-40. Unless it gets really cold in portugal then you can get away with 20-50 or 15-50. In the winter here in the northern part of the US I use 5w-50. Just my opinion | ||
| 1989 328 GTS (Vilamoura2002)
|
Forgot about the oil filter.  The filter I found compatible with the 328 is Crosland 637 Is this the correct one? Tks | ||
| 1989 328 GTS (Vilamoura2002)
|
Need advise I can not find AGIP over here. What is your opinion on using: Engine -> Mobil 1 - 100% syntetic - 0W-40 Transmission -> Mobil 1 - SAE 75W-90 Brake -> Lockheed Supreme DOT 5.1 My 328 is 23000 Km Tks in advance |