| Author |
Message |
Bill Sebestyen (Bill308)
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 7:11 pm: | |
Neville,
I elected to try ATE Super Blue DOT4/DOT3 rated brake fluid. It has a dry boiling point of 536 F and more importantly a wet boiling point of 392 F, pretty respectible IMHO. The beauty is that it's available in 2-colors, blue and gold. The idea is to alternate refills with the 2-colors. When a different color fluid comes out, the old fluid is purged. I've seen this stuff priced at over $20/liter (1-liter is enough to flush and fill a 308 system) but I was able to mail order 4-liters (2 of each color) for $8.50 each plus $6.95 UPS = $40.95, from 928 Specialists at:
http://www.928gt.com/
tel: 828-766-9280
I don't know about the master cylinder, but the calipers are made by ATE, so I don't think there is a compatibility problem.
Bill |
TomD (Tifosi)
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 12:49 pm: | |
how does bleeding the brake system effect the clutch, aren't they sharing the same fluid? Also where on the calibers are the bleed valves? from the various posting this is the procedure I have arrived at abesent a vacuum or pressurizer
1) Use Turkey baster to remove most of fluid from resevoir - give baster back to your wife
2) fill reservoir with new fluid
3) Open bled valve on wheel furthest from reservoir
4) let fluid run until new fluid appears watching reservoir level
5) repeat for other wheels and top off reservoir
Did I miss anything? |
1989 328 GTS (Vilamoura2002)
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 11:07 am: | |
Neville, I myself renewed all the brake system fluid too.
If your car is a 308 just use DOT 3. Do not try anything else.
That's very easy to do but it takes around 45 minutes.Buy 2 cans of DOT 3 just in case...
You will know when the old DOT is coming out. Color is darker.
Be careful with a drop of it on paint.
Protect your wheels and around the reservoir where you are going to refill it.
I would suggest to read
http://209.196.179.161/discus/messages/112/823.html
...as well.
Did you change the transmition oil already?
I did it by myself too, but I had to come here to Ferrari chat before it was completly done.
Same problem with clutch/transmission
Good luck |
BretM (Bretm)
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 10:08 am: | |
You're probably got DOT3 in it. DOT5 would require the entire brake system to be converted over and I doubt anyone did that.
Yeah the diff does use the same oil as the gearbox/transfer case (they're all connected). Just get a synthetic that is limited slip compatible (Mobil 1, Redline, Amsoil) in 75 or 80w-90. |
Neville Pugh (Nev_Pugh)
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 7:00 am: | |
Hi guys, thanks for answering, and sorry if I've asked something that's already been covered ! (doh)
Thanks for the heads up about filling through the upper transfer box .... I'd got that the wrong way round. And thanks for the info on the bleeding too, I'll do it front to back :-)
Two more questions / thoughts from this :
1) Does the diff use the same oil as the gearbox and transfer box, then ?
2) I have no idea whether my car has DOT3/4 or DOT5 (synthetic) brake fluid currently in it .... as they dont mix, how do I tell ? And/or if I'm bleeding, how do I know that I've got absolutely every little drop and trace of the old stuff out of the system ? (apart fromt the obvious, i.e. keep bleeding, bleeding, bleeding !)
Thanks again !
Nev |
1989 328 GTS (Vilamoura2002)
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 12:44 am: | |
Neville, I have already posted oil service with pictures, have a look at
Technical Q&A /328 Oils and filter /
About the bleeding... I have read a long time ago an article by a Ferrari specialist that we should start from the wheel/calipers farthest away from the reservoir.....and I made that way.
No problem occur. Can someone tell me which is the most correct way? And why? |
Scott Anderson (Srandrsn)
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 13, 2001 - 5:10 pm: | |
Thanks, Peter. |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 13, 2001 - 2:14 pm: | |
My GT4 WSM says to bleed the fronts first, then the rears (and this WSM is applicable to '76-'79 308 GTB/S models). |
Scott Anderson (Srandrsn)
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 13, 2001 - 12:46 pm: | |
When I bleed the brakes on my mid 60,s corvettes I always start from the wheel/caliper farthest away from the resivior and work to the closest. Will follow this same procedure on the 308 unless someone tells me otherwise. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 13, 2001 - 12:04 pm: | |
Neville,
1) Many previous posts on this subject (use Keyword Search) -- I think you've got the right idea, but you should have said: "if you fill the transfer box slowly thru the upper transfer box fill plug, the overflow will eventually fill the main gearbox -- so keep adding oil until it starts to come out the main gearbox fill plug opening" (I resisted using the letter labels for the various fill/drain plugs because they are not consistent model to model.)
2) I've never seen anything in my F OMs and/or WSMs saying there's a proper bleeding order, but here's a reference:
http://www.weekendmechanicsclub.com/Features/Feature-Mityvac.htm |
Neville Pugh (Nev_Pugh)
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 13, 2001 - 7:36 am: | |
I'm just about to do my first ever service on my 308 carb, got a couple of techy questions first !
1) When refilling the transfer box and gearbox, in the service manual it says to fill one first, then the other. I've read however that there's a passageway between the two, and if you fill the gearbox slowly, the transfer box will auto fill to the right level .... is this true ?
2) When bleeding brakes on more mundane cars :-) there's usually a "correct" order in which to bleed each wheel in turn, for example front left then rear right then front right .... and so on. Is there such an order for 308's ? Is there anything else I should be aware of when bleed the brakes ?
Thanks !
Neville |
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