| Author |
Message |
Dr. George Petito (Doc18015)
| | Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2001 - 1:05 pm: | |
It was 53 degrees in Bethlehem, Penna. , so I decided to tackle the engine/compartment wash. I started with Simple Green in conc. form, sprayed everything that was heavily coated: followed up with a diluted version on all wiring, etc. Did it all on a cold engine with the electronics wrapped in aluminum foil. I waited about 10 minutes, then sprayed the entire area with a garden hose. Dried everything off with compressed air (about 45 # at the nozzle ). The red Testarossa fired -up immediately and off I went for a "dry-out" run. GREAT!!! The engine looks great with only some small areas to hand detail. Bring on the shows! |
John A Arends (Jarends)
| | Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2001 - 7:23 am: | |
1989 328, I knew after I posted the comments on the compressor that the spray comment was vague. Sorry.
If you have a very dirty engine, you have to scrape, use a cleaner like GUNK, brush off, and use a finish cleaner. I've done that when rebuilding (in my much younger days.)
To maintain that "never been driven look" these show cars have, you only need to spray with water, that gets all the dust off. The compessor drys it off nicely, bringing back the shine. |
Modified348ts (Modman)
| | Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2001 - 2:18 am: | |
Compressor is an excellent way to get most of the water out of wells and wiring and drying faster. I've used this method drying out condensated headlight housing on other cars... |
1989 328 GTS (Vilamoura2002)
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 19, 2001 - 11:58 am: | |
John, do you use that spray and dry it?
Don't you give some water before drying? |
John A Arends (Jarends)
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 19, 2001 - 8:20 am: | |
The engine rusting is never the problem. Fuel lines and fitting, brake lines, where the master cylinder is in the engine compartment, bolts and other accessary items are sometimes of a material that will rust and detract from the appearance.
This tip on the air compressor was given to me by a shop that competes in car and tractor shows, It was the best answer to keeping the car's mechanics clean I'd come across. |
Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2001 - 6:59 pm: | |
Just a note to say that TR engines surely can be cleaned with a rag/towel/etc. and they are made of aluminum, and won't have much issuse with rust.
-Ben |
Frank Parker (Parkerfe)
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2001 - 10:29 am: | |
I have always cleaned the engines on my Ferraris and BMWs at the high pressure car wash. You just need to be careful around electrical parts and hold the wane back when cleaning any painted surfaces of the engine. It has always worked for me and I have never had any problems whatsoever with the car starting or running afterwards. |
Dr. George Petito (Doc18015)
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2001 - 7:15 am: | |
Thank you all for your suggestions.....and , even better, your experience! |
John A Arends (Jarends)
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2001 - 7:04 am: | |
Just a thought, I have a 1978 TransAm show car, I drive it and asked how to clean off the engine from dust that will get on it. (Same thing goes for my wife's 328 GTS)
I was told to use a spray on the engine, (a strong mist) and then use a compessor to dry the engine immediately. Start the car and let the engine completely dry. This stops rust as well as stops water spots. I purchased a very nice compessor for about $250.
You simply can't clean an engine with a rag.
John |
Modified348ts (Modman)
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2001 - 1:42 am: | |
My suggestion is to put lithuim grease in all contact molex plugs and you won't have to worry about spraying in the electrical areas. There usually is some grease in the plugs but depending on the age of your car I would check them anyway. Just to be safe you can release the ground wire of the battery. You shouldn't have problems steam cleaning or spraying since this is what detailers do and I never heard of any problems doing so... |
Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
| | Posted on Monday, December 17, 2001 - 4:55 pm: | |
Wet rags? even spray bottles might be ok, just use minimal amounts of water where ever things are questionable.
-Ben |
Dr. George Petito (Doc18015)
| | Posted on Monday, December 17, 2001 - 4:25 pm: | |
I am preparing my '87 for upcoming shows in the spring. There seems to be quite a bit of dust/dirt under the rear panels on both sides of the engine compartment. Any suggestions for cleaning that area? Many thanks! |
Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
| | Posted on Monday, December 17, 2001 - 10:35 am: | |
I do mine all the time, no steam just garden hose, the connections to be careful of are the ones between the clutch housing and the exhaust (wrap them) and the computer connections right under the body panels, over the wheel wells( just don't spray there).
Also the belts will squeak/squeal when wet.
-Ben |
Dr. George Petito (Doc18015)
| | Posted on Monday, December 17, 2001 - 7:52 am: | |
Has anyone washed/steam cleaned the entire engine bay area on a TR? I have some concerns regarding the electronics,etc. |