Author |
Message |
Brian stewart (Eurocardoc)
| Posted on Friday, December 28, 2001 - 2:10 pm: | |
You can buy the correct pliers for those clips at major tool suppliers, still a bear but they work well. |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
| Posted on Wednesday, December 26, 2001 - 4:50 pm: | |
Jeff -- I would replace the rear main seal once you're in that deep labor-wise (especially if yours is the original seal). Also, CFD has come a long way in the last 25 years so the "new" rear main seal will incorporate extra features in the sealing area that, with the rotation, help pump any oil that gets under the seal back towards the reservoir side (rather than just being a "mechanical" lip seal like the old one). The only thing that surprised me was that the flywheel was not "pinned" to the crankshaft and there was some slop in the bolt holes so I made a TDC gage to put down the #1 spark plug hole to reverify the #1 TDC mark on the flywheel was lining up correctly with the fixed mark on the engine. (The updated rear main seal PN was 136527 circa late '97/early '98.) |
Jeff 77 GTB (Jbk)
| Posted on Wednesday, December 26, 2001 - 4:33 pm: | |
Peter, it actually stayed intact and is still straight. Took over an hour, but once I finally got a shim between the ring and shaft near each end, it popped right off when I pulled the housing back. You're probably right, though, better to just replace it. Sure wish I knew why they made the hole smaller than the ring OD. Another question in the same vein for anyone with more experience than I - is it worth it to replace the rear main seal now that I've gotten this far? Or a case of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" and better to leave it alone? |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
| Posted on Wednesday, December 26, 2001 - 1:08 pm: | |
I'm more surprised that you got yours off in one piece! Taking it off is much harder than putting it on, you'll see. Even if you got it off in one piece, I'd replace it with a new one (just a couple of bucks, if that). Mine severly deformed when popping it off. |
Jeff 77 GTB (Jbk)
| Posted on Wednesday, December 26, 2001 - 7:16 am: | |
Does anyone have any ideas on the "proper" way to remove the locking ring on the trans input shaft behind the lower bearing in the bellhousing? Whoever designed the hole in the rear wall of the bellhousing to be smaller than the OD of the ring was a true sadist! I ended up having to jam some shims I pounded out of wire under the ring after struggling to open it up with a pair of snap ring pliers. Finally worked, but there's gotta be a better way. |
|