| Author |
Message |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
| | Posted on Friday, January 25, 2002 - 6:47 pm: | |
Maybe if this post continues to be at the top of the list, it'll remind J Dirk Carnahan to provide the info. |
Richelson (Richelson)
| | Posted on Friday, January 25, 2002 - 8:11 am: | |
I would like the Nissan rotor info as well. |
Skip VanDenBerg (Skipgt4)
| | Posted on Friday, January 25, 2002 - 6:16 am: | |
Did anyone come up with the information on the Nissan rotor and the modification needed to make it work? |
Richelson (Richelson)
| | Posted on Friday, January 18, 2002 - 8:33 am: | |
It is a York compressor and the # is:
258108
It is about $100-$150 I think from NAPA. It is a lot better than the $900 Ferrari compressor. I am not sure about the clutch # though. |
Skip VanDenBerg (Skipgt4)
| | Posted on Friday, January 18, 2002 - 8:18 am: | |
I think that I missed the information on the NAPA A/C compressor. Can someone send me the details. |
Richelson (Richelson)
| | Posted on Friday, January 18, 2002 - 6:48 am: | |
I agree. I think that we need a good cross-reference list. We have rotors that can be crossed now. NAPA A/C compressor, etc. I think it is a great idea. |
Greg Owens (Owens84qv)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 17, 2002 - 4:31 pm: | |
Sounds like a new link for Rob to setup...I think a parts interchangability link would be great!! |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 17, 2002 - 2:12 pm: | |
What's to say that these other parts aren't a better quality and would last longer than the original?
With people's help, this site can have a link for parts interchangeability. |
J Dirk Carnahan (Dirk989)
| | Posted on Thursday, January 17, 2002 - 9:22 am: | |
I'll find out today and let you know.
It did get me wondering about how many of our parts may be taken from other far less expensive and more common sources. For example, I'm told the 308 air filter is the exact same size as one for a particular air compressor and the points are the same specifications as those on an old Case tractor. I wonder if anyone has ever thought about compiling some sort of cross referenced list.
I certainly don't want my car filled with off-brand parts, but using one in a time of need or when an OEM part is hard to find might not be such a bad thing. |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 16, 2002 - 2:53 pm: | |
"....How much is the Nissan rotor?..." I can imagine a hell of alot less than the Marelli one!! All I'd like to know is which Nissan model does this rotor come from? I'll figure out the modification. |
Richelson (Richelson)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 16, 2002 - 2:27 pm: | |
Thanks I would appreciate it. How much was the Nissan rotor? Great idea. |
J Dirk Carnahan (Dirk989)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 16, 2002 - 2:24 pm: | |
I'm not sure. My mechanic did this today. The old one was clearly melted. He got the Nissan rotor from the local auto parts store and had it in and running in about an hour. So far it is running great. If you need to know exactly what he had to do then I'll find out and let you know. It's a lot easier to find Nissan parts than Ferrari parts in a small town in southern Indiana. |
Richelson (Richelson)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 16, 2002 - 2:18 pm: | |
What do you have to do to the rotor? |
J Dirk Carnahan (Dirk989)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 16, 2002 - 2:06 pm: | |
Also, I have now learned that the ignition rotor can be replaced somewhat inexpensively by making a slight modification to a Nissan rotor. |
J Dirk Carnahan (Dirk989)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 16, 2002 - 10:32 am: | |
You also might want to check the ignition rotor. Apparently these have a habit of wearing out and melting. I finally gave up on fixing my 308 myself and it has been at the mechanic. (A new one who builds dirt track race cars) He claims the rotor is melted and can't believe that bank of cylinders ever ran. |
Brian stewart (Eurocardoc)
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 16, 2002 - 6:14 am: | |
On the QV there are two pick ups on the flywheel one for each bank, they trigger their own coil through the ECU, the problem is normally internal in the coil IMHO. |
Edward Gault (Irfgt)
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2002 - 4:59 pm: | |
The coils get their power from the same source so if one coil quits then the other should quit too. |
Brian stewart (Eurocardoc)
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2002 - 8:43 am: | |
My aftermarket ignition of choice right now is the Accel 300+, you buy the amplifier and coil for about $200, use one for each bank. They are programmable and the rev limiter is adjustable, also smaller and less obvious than the big red boxes of other manufacturers. |
Richelson (Richelson)
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 15, 2002 - 5:35 am: | |
Did you check your fuse block out too? You can get replacement coils very reasonable for the 308. Crane has PS20 coils, Accel has coils, etc. You could put one of these coils in until you decide to convert. Check out your fuse block just in case there is a problem in there. |
J Dirk Carnahan (Dirk989)
| | Posted on Monday, January 14, 2002 - 11:27 am: | |
I've been dealing with the same problem with my 79 308. 1 bank occasionally doesn't function, smell of unburned fuel, etc. I'm having problems finding the problem too. I've checked coils and ignition. I just took the carbs off and rebuilt them. I didn't really find any major problems. I put the carbs back on and it is running fine, but I expect the intermittant problem to resurface.
I'm ordering the ignition system from Nick and hope that fixes the problem.
If anyone finds a definitive answer to this problem please let me know.
Dirk Carnahan |
Mark C. Gordon (Markg)
| | Posted on Monday, January 14, 2002 - 10:12 am: | |
Are there after-market coils that will replace the 308 electronic ignition (pointless ignition) coils? My '82 GTSi is fine now, but looking for options if they fail before I upgrade to Nickie's direct fire setup. |
Greg Owens (Owens84qv)
| | Posted on Monday, January 14, 2002 - 9:11 am: | |
I've been searching for a coil (2) for my car. I contacted Dennie McCann @ All Ferrari Parts and he had one but thought he may be able to locate a few others. His number is 614-855-1103.
I also agree that if you need one, buy two and have a couple of spares. You won't regret it.
I also plan on doing a thorough cleaning on all ignition connections! |
Brian stewart (Eurocardoc)
| | Posted on Monday, January 14, 2002 - 5:31 am: | |
If the whole bank shuts down, it really pinpoints a faulty coil, one or even two wires/extenders will produce a lack of response but you will feel the misfire at idle. When a bank shuts down, the motor still feels the same from the drivers seat, because of the way the firing order is set up on the 308/328 with the flat plane crank. |
magoo (Magoo)
| | Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2002 - 1:53 pm: | |
Michael, I thought earlier when I mentioned it you swapped the coils around. After everything else in our diagnosis it pin pointed to coils but very hard to determine over the internet. You may have to have a breakdown test, with a scope, done on the electrical system. |
Michael Ponte (Mikep)
| | Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2002 - 11:17 am: | |
Thanks Brian, Magoo and I have been trying to figure this thing out all week...maybe its back to the coils as the culprit...I'm going to also check all of the extendors. Any sources for a good price on original coils? |
Brian stewart (Eurocardoc)
| | Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2002 - 6:35 am: | |
The coils are relatively cheap (for F-carparts) so I would replace the suspect , the worst case is you have a spare. With Marelli stopping production on so many older F-car ignition parts, that might be an investment!
The wires are generally fine, i replace a lot of the extenders, they can arc to the side and to ground, weakening the spark and gives a misfire although only noticed at idle. |
Edward Gault (Irfgt)
| | Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2002 - 5:16 am: | |
Swap the coils to see if the problem moves to the other cylinder bank. That will eliminate the coil as the problem. |
Michael Ponte (Mikep)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 12, 2002 - 11:28 pm: | |
Hey Greg, I have a "83 Quattro and I think I'm having a similar problem, however my 1-4 "slow down" light came on. I've been trying to diagnose the problem all week with the help of Magoo. Yesterday, I tested my plug wires with a multimeter and the wires on the 1-4 could not even get the needle to move..5-8 appeared fine (under 2000 ohlms) Today, I replaced the wires on that bank, however this thing is still running similar to yours..I also can smell the unburned fuel...I've checked the coils once, however it appears as if their not throwing out enough juice..when removing the plug wires one at a time from the spark plug, I'm not getting a real strong blue bolt comming out of the extender tubs..I could be wrong, but I think I should be seeing a nice blue bolt comming out of that extender when I remove the plug wire...its very interrmittent and on #3, the bolt looks more yellow than blue...any ideas? |
Paul Prideaux (Paul355c)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 12, 2002 - 8:12 pm: | |
Greg, Edward's info is very helpful since we wouldn't have ever looked there. Electrical systems are indeed fickle and have their own personalities. Keep me posted. |
Edward Gault (Irfgt)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 12, 2002 - 6:09 pm: | |
You probably just had a bad connection on the suspect coil and when you touched it, it started working again. The modules are located in the rear compartment left side under the carpet under a bolted down panel. There is no inspection to do as there is little visual you can inspect. |
Greg Owens (Owens84qv)
| | Posted on Saturday, January 12, 2002 - 5:38 pm: | |
I wanted to post a thread on a recent successful problem diagnosis that others may have experienced. The other day while I had my 308 out for a drive, it was immediately apparent that there was a significant power loss, the engine was very anemic. I called my very good friend Paul and we discussed the problem for over 2 hours. He decided to make the trip from Richmond to Lynchburg to help me solve my problem (I am extremely grateful for his generosity!)
We compiled a list of possible problem areas (bad gas, loss of fuel pressure, clogged fuel filter, leaking head gasket, faulty fuel distributor, weak coil, timing belt jumped a tooth, etc.).
First we ran the car for a short drive to get a feeling for how (non)responsive the throttle was. It was very weak. Grandma in her loaded-down '89 Buick Roadmaster would've eaten us for dinner! Next we checked all of the spark plugs. The forward bank were near-normal in color and dry. The rear bank were somewhat normal in color but with much unburnt fuel. The rear-bank pistons also displayed significant unburnt fuel. At this point, we were starting to rule out any fuel distribution problems. This was definitely a front versus rear bank problem. The exhaust also communicated a not-so-normal rhythm.
We then checked for any play in the cam belt tensioner bolt just in case the belt may have slipped a tooth. The tensioner bolt was solid.
Our next step was to check voltage with a gun on the spark plug wires and then the main coil wires. Each and every wire seemed fine until we attached to the rear-bank main coil wire. We heard a small electrical discharge (a "tick") and the engine RPMs immediately rose back to a normal level. After a test drive (and blowing out all the previously unburnt fuel and other junk), the car was back to normal. My plan is to now replace both coils.
However, a few questions for those that are more familiar with the 308s electronic ignition system.
First, what caused the rear-bank coil to return to normal operation when we attached the gun to the rear-coil main wire? Did the electrical discharge we experienced fix a short condition?
Second, are there any other electrical components that should be looked at when inspecting & replacing the coils?
Third, where are the Electronic Ignition Modules located? I'd like to inspect them while I'm at it.
Hopefully, our success in diagnosing this problem can be of some help for others experiencing a power loss. Thanks again Paul! |