| Author | Message | ||
| Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member Username: Caribe Post Number: 360 Registered: 2-2001 |
Gentlemen, The Final phase of this job has been started. Press the link to enter that thread. | ||
| Christian (Christiank)
Member Username: Christiank Post Number: 331 Registered: 1-2001 |
I would leave it as is. | ||
| Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Intermediate Member Username: Irfgt Post Number: 1486 Registered: 2-2001 |
If the timing marks are properly aligned from the beginning then they should align again with a new belt unless the belt is defective or the pulleys were removed and not placed back properly. I have done thousands of timing belts and have never had one not to properly line up. | ||
| Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member Username: Caribe Post Number: 354 Registered: 2-2001 |
Well, I have been doing some research on the Valve Adjustment Issue that Ben brought up. I talked to several techs (two dealers and one independent), and they all agree that adjusting the valve timing is not really necessary, specially if the car has been running well since this is done when the engine is put together and should not change. One of them suggested doing it anyway for completeness, but he warned that if not done correctly could be a very bad thing. Better to leave it to an experienced technician. Their advise, if the engine was running fine before and if the marks where at the correct place before pulling the old belts out, then properly aligning the new belts should be enough. What do you guys think? Personally, I will take their advise and leave it that, but thanks Ben for bringing this up. It was interesting talking to these gentlemen. They were very forthcoming an eager to help clarify this issue and other questions that I had. | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 778 Registered: 1-2001 |
James -- welcome to the Owner dilemma of powerplant-out servicing -- how much "insurance" do you buy? My 2 cents on your questions: 1. Having the radiators "serviced" wouldn't be a bad thing. I just tried doing a coolant refresh on my '91 and could only get about 1/2 it's specified capacity out (anyone got any tips to get more?) so giving things a good flush now that things are apart would seem sensible. Still, I would put most of the decision on the condition of the coolant removed. If dis-colored with sediment/debris sure, but if clear/clean I'd probably blow some water thru the radiators/pipes, and maybe unhook a connection or two, but not significantly dismount them. 2. Replacing the injectors -- not an uncommon need for any 15 year old injected car, but "removing the injectors for cleaning and calibration or replacing" is a bit of service bs-speak IMO. "Calibrating" (which I guess they mean "measuring" since there are no adjustments on Bosch CIS injectors) and/or "cleaning" hardly makes sense as the cost (to the service organization not you) to replace them is about the same as the cost/hassle to measure/clean them. The latest incarnation of the Bosch CIS injector is: 0 437 502 047 I recently bought a set at ~$30 each from one of the Discount F Part suppliers, but I think others have posted here that people on the MB chat have found sources at ~$20 each -- just to give you parts cost reference. | ||
| James Selevan (Jselevan)
New member Username: Jselevan Post Number: 7 Registered: 6-2002 |
Ben - I have owned the car since 1989. 30K miles. I drive it infrequently - perhaps every 3 months (between the 246 Dino - which I bought in 1980, Little League, Basketball, work, Soccer, Little League, Basketball - you get the picture). I flushed the radiators 8 years ago - have always maintained at least 50% antifreeze. To answer your question, it sits more than I would like - alot. Jim | ||
| Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
Member Username: Benjet Post Number: 664 Registered: 1-2001 |
James, First a Q (or 2)for you...how many miles are on it, did it sit for a long time unused? -Ben | ||
| James Selevan (Jselevan)
New member Username: Jselevan Post Number: 6 Registered: 6-2002 |
Gentlemen, I am watching as my 1986 TR receives its 30K major service. The cam timing belts are the major concern that leads to the 30K, but Ferrari of Orange County has recommended 1) removing the radiators and having them "serviced" and 2) removing the injectors for cleaning and calibration or replacing. The incremental cost to do these things now is less than if I had to do them with the engine "in vivo". This is an argument that can be used for anything. Nonetheless, time will ravage things like standing water in a radiator, and time will lead to deposits on injectors. Has anyone experience? What is the consensus on these items? Your help is greatly appreciated. James Selevan | ||
| Tim N (Timn88)
Intermediate Member Username: Timn88 Post Number: 1100 Registered: 6-2001 |
As for the air pump, why not just remove the smog equipment entirely and free up some HP? | ||
| Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
Member Username: Benjet Post Number: 661 Registered: 1-2001 |
Been gone a bit here, Thinking back, my tech did not mark the cam gears to put them back in the same position, since he knew he would be re-measuring the point of reference. SteveM - you may be correct, if they were %100 accurate before and you (accurately) marked them, then if you put them back with relative exactness, then things would be ok; however, as you could be off by a half degree, if it were my car I'd want to verify it. The procedure I am referring to is shown in WSM pages B47-49. Using the .5mm shims in cyls 1 and 7, you should be able to measure the most open point of that valve (or relative timing from crank to intake cams), correct? IIRC on my TR when valve #1 was fully open it was 9deg BTDC. If this was the final assemblers work or someone else who had been in there before - I don't know. What I do know is that had we not checked it, it would have stayed at 9deg BTDC - not in spec for the TR. Also my tech had a chart (issued in TR school - IIRC) where he could put the .5mm shim into a number of valves on different cyls/cams and have the specs for at what deg open and closed should be, so if he needed to verify all cam gears/rotations/valve timing in relation to crankshaft timing - he could, and he did at least one lobe on each cam shaft for reference. Hope that helps. -Ben PS. If the only time you can adjust this, is with the engine out, why would you skip verifying it for certainty? | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 770 Registered: 1-2001 |
Ben -- Can you explain more: "when mine was removed it was measured at 9deg BTDC - pretty far off... " Do you mean that lift-vs-angle was completely measured on at least 1 lobe on each camshaft and their relative phases to the crankshaft set accordingly? If so, that would be the advanced class (and you'd be checking the original assembler's work), but if an engine was running well and the cam marks quasi-lined up on teardown (maybe they'd be a little late due to belt stretch), using those marks on reassembly wouldn't be a serious problem IMO -- I'd be more worried about making an error myself in the lift-vs-angle measurements/math or, like you said, trusting the "specs" (the values listed in the correct year/version OM would be my first chioce). | ||
| Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
Member Username: Benjet Post Number: 658 Registered: 1-2001 |
Arnaldo - I would say this is the 2nd most important part of the service after replacing the belts, even ahead of water pump rebuild. This adjustment has to be set with an external measuring device to confirm it's integrtiy. Your WSM *may* show 16deg BTDC, beware that this is NOT the correct spec for US cars, most of the WSMs (9 out of 10 I have seen) have this number. I know of 3 TR's that have been turned into BBQs because that's the number the shop used. Love the excuse the techs then use - we did it by the book! Not trying to totally scare you, but I'd rather not hear any scary stories AFTER you get it back on the road. | ||
| Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member Username: Caribe Post Number: 352 Registered: 2-2001 |
Ben, now you got me wandering, too. According to the WSM, valve timing is on as needed basis. Nevertheless, it is not clear to me how to determine if it is needed, though. This is an excellent time for somebody to step in and inform me of the right procedure. I am going to step back and look at this carefully until I can make sense out of it before proceeding. The most confusing part is that the WSM strongly dictates the Cyl 1 TDC and Camshafts marks as the correct timing setup. If you have to adjust valve timing, the camshaft has to be rotated to meet the proper angle of opening and closing for intake/exhaust for Cyl 1 and 7, but it does not mention what should happen with the camshaft timing marks after that. Could someone please explain this procedure? Thanks. | ||
| Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
Member Username: Benjet Post Number: 657 Registered: 1-2001 |
Arnaldo - First congrads on making it this far. I see that you have lined up all the Cam and Timing markings, and verifed them repeatedly. Have you verified the actual timing sequence? (help me here everyone - I don't think I'm explaining it correctly)... What I'm getting at it is seems you have put back the timing gears in the exact way they came out, are you so sure they were in proper spec before? I ask because that first step intake can be set anywhere from about 12-17deg BTDC (from memory), when mine was removed it was measured at 9deg BTDC - pretty far off... To my knowledge lining up the cam marks is NOT a sufficent way to accomplish this. Maybe I'm the one missing something? Ok it's late maybe I'm speaking before I'm thinking... Everyone? Anyone? -Ben | ||
| Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member Username: Caribe Post Number: 351 Registered: 2-2001 |
Well, as of Yesterday, the end to this service is in sight. Here are the last details: 1. Replaced oil seal, coolant seal, large O-ring, and Impeller nut to complete water pump rebuild. Rebuilding the water pump has been the most painful part of the process. First, pulling the impeller out started as the first obstacle which was easily resolved by the support of some of you. Second, replacing the coolant seal which seats just behind the impeller was a major pain. I had to build a special tool just to get the job done right, on my second try. First try was a failure. I ended up damaging the part slightly, and I decided to removed it and get a brand new part ($34.00). Nevertheless, I am quite happy with the results since it now looks as good as the factory install. Replaced all components, torqued the impeller nut to the specified value(25 N-m), replaced the water pump cover, hoses, and done. 2. Alternator was rebuilt for $80.00. I was surprised to find out that my alternator is a Delco. The shop that rebuilt mine said that new, those cost about $170.00. A good thing to keep in mind. Mine puts out the specified 120 Amps. 3. Replaced Crankshaft Front seal and replaced with new. A lot easier task than I was expecting. I actually used one of my home made shim removal tools (a bent screw driver) to pull the old one out. 4. Replaced thermostats and O-rings. Another very easy task when engine is out. Did not tested the old ones, but I assume they were still good. 5. Shift shaft Bellow replaced. Another very easy task. Silicone spray really helped on this shores. 6. Cleaned up entire front of engine in preparation for Timing Belts replacement. All pulleys were cleaned with a wire brush and brake cleaner to remove all traces of rust and other contaminants. 7. Replaced Camshaft seals. Added some silicone gasket gel to the inside of the seals housing as it was done from the factory. The camshaft seals meet in a sort of a three way juncture which could be hard to seal. I hope mine seal properly. 8. Replaced Crankshaft damper, added some high strength loctite to damper screw and torque. 9. Replaced Distributor rotors and gaskets. Added a little bit of Loctite to the screws to prevent failure. 10. Reassembled Tensioner Bearing assembly, and replaced. 11. Replaced all pulleys and installed pins to the same original configuration. Placed pulley screws and tight slightly. 12. Reconfirmed that all Camshafts were at the right position (marks aligned with caps), and that the Crankshaft was at TDC for Cyl 1 on the compression cycle (as it was before I removed components). 13. Installed new Timing Belts. Right bank (1-6) fit right on without having to adjust pin placement on pulleys. Left bank (7-12) required that bottom pulley's pin be reallocated to hole #5 on pulley, and center hole on Camshaft flange. 14. Rotated engine several times and brought it back to Cyl 1. TDC on Compression Cycle (PM 1-6 on Flywheel). Checked all timing marks again. Everything perfect. 15. Replaced Idler screw on Tensioner bearing Right Bank and torque to specified value (55 N-m). Rotated engine several times and went back to Cyl 1 TDC. Replaced Idler screw for Left bank and torque it. Repeat rotations and timing mark checking. 16. Torque pulleys to specified value (100 N-m), and rotated and checked and checked until satisfied, and then replaced Timing Belt covers (WARNING!!! Do not forget to put back those plastic covers before the pulleys are replaced. I did, and had to do it all over again). 17. Replaced accessories, and installed new belts. Adjusted belts tensions based on manual procedure specified in WSM. Not very happy with this approach but it should work. Belts are less tight than old ones were. Anyway, they can easily be retighten with engine in car, if required. Plugged all accessory's wiring. 18. Currently, I am in the process of pulling and measuring shims that need replacement to put order together. Hopefully, I will be done tonight with that so can I can get new shims installed this weekend. I made a set of tools from old screw drivers and a metal pick to perform this task. So far, so good! 19. Next tasks, replace Cam covers with all new gaskets, and complete installation of Distributors and Vaccum pump. Also, I am replacing out-of-spec spark plug wires, although I might go ahead and replace them all. Bought 10 meters of Cavis 7mm wire from dealer ($8.50/meter). Finally, I would like to detail the engine as much as possible before replacing. In addition, got the NGK Plugs recommended and getting ready to put those as well. Replace Fuel filters, and oil filter. Hopefully I will be in a position to start rejoining the subframe with the car this weekend. I have to think this one carefully since lifting the car is easy due to high level of control with hydraulic Jacks, but lowering the car over the engine is a different story since jacks are not very reliable going down. At this point int time, the total cost of parts has been just over $1300.00 (not including shims). Some of these are beyond the scope of typical Major Service but are a must when performing it. Obviously, this could increase substantially the final tab if performed at the dealer. Hence, I am very happy, I decided to do this myself. I just hope my baby still works as good as before after I am done with her, LOL! | ||
| Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member Username: Caribe Post Number: 338 Registered: 2-2001 |
Progress report: 1. Removed Spark Plug wires, distributors, and vacuum pump. Replaced seal rings on distributors and replaced gaskets on all rear accessories. 2. Removed and cleaned up Cam covers. Love those red covers. 3. Checked valve clearances (twice). Got 11 shims to replace. Most of them are 0.001" below the minimum valve clearance specified value in the owner's manual. Two where 0.002" below the minimum value. None where over the maximum specified clearance value. Started manufacturing my own valve replacement tools. It seems to be easier than I expected. Already got the tool for pushing the tappet down working. It was made out of an old screw driver as some people suggested. 4. Cleaned-up and got familiarized with markings on the Flywheel in preparation for Timing Belts replacement. Removed all plugs to make it easier to rotate engine. 5. Got familiarized with the Camshaft's markings for proper T.Belt timing setup. Brought engine to TDC on Cylinder 1 (PM 1-6 on Flywheel). Verified that all Camshaft markings where at the proper location. Left bank (Cyl 7-12) are a few degress lagging Right Bank which is perfectly aligned with timing marks on caps. 5. Removed T. Belts and Tensioner bearings assembly. Inspected T. Belts very carefully and confirmed initial impression about their good condition. No cracks or blemishes of any kind even after bending and checking between the teeth. 6. Tensioner bearings were a little of a pain to remove and replace on the assembly. They completely destroy on the way out, and extra careful should be taken when installing new one to prevent destroying it. 7. Removed water pump cover. No signs of corrosion pass the funnel. Everything looks good inside, except I can't figure out yet how to remove impeller to perform rebuild. This will probably be the biggest obstacle to the service (HELP!!!). 8. Noticed leak out of Crankshaft seal. Need to order for R & R. 9. Inspected Shift Shaft Bellow closely, and it turn out to be worst than I expected. The Bellow was actually fully split in half. Took two pieces out in preparation for replacement. 10. Removed Cam pulleys in order to service Camshaft seals(4) and o-rings(8). Cleanup and replaced components. Noticed that Intake pulleys are aligned on the center hole of the Camshaft cap with the 5th hole of the pulley. The Exhaust pulleys were aligned on the first hole of cap, with the pin in the 7th hole of the pulley (Hole numbering always clockwise, i.e. left-most been hole #1). 11. Went shopping around for hoses, only found the Water pump and Thermostats hoses. Braided hoses were nowhere to be found. Will try BMW dealer before contacting T.Rutlands or F. dealer. 12. Parts in the shopping list: a. Thermostats (2). b. Shift Shaft Bellow. c. Crankshaft Front Seal. d. Oil return lines gaskets (2). e. Spark plugs. f. Braided hoses (estimated 6.5 feet). | ||
| Brian stewart (Eurocardoc)
Member Username: Eurocardoc Post Number: 298 Registered: 11-2001 |
Whilst admiring the people on the Ferrarichat site for their ability to carry through with jobs such as this, I hope that you all keep track and realise that most shops are not gouging the consumer with the charges. Remember I turn a TR 30K in 4 days, back on the road to enjoy. | ||
| Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member Username: Caribe Post Number: 333 Registered: 2-2001 |
From the service point of view, it is a great design. Nevertheless, from a performance point of view I don't think it is so hot. Remember Ferrari abandoned the subframe on the 512TR and F512M versions of the TR. Now that the engine is out and I can contemplate the subframe, I can understand why they did it. The subframe is rigid at the bottom where the thick chassis beams come together, but its upper part seems weak and flexible. I think a few modifications could definitely improve the rigidity of the subframe but at the expense of added weight. | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member Username: Magoo Post Number: 2784 Registered: 2-2001 |
I think one of the lessons to be learned here is that these Ferrari engines are to be dropped from below. His idea of a platform on wheels which the engine is bolted to is the way to go. Raise the body, drop the engine. | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Intermediate Member Username: Peter Post Number: 1859 Registered: 12-2000 |
Sorry for jumping the gun there Arnaldo. They way you wrote it, sounded like you were going for the whole works...  | ||
| Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member Username: Caribe Post Number: 330 Registered: 2-2001 |
Great, Thanks, I was putting off procuring the plugs, so I am glad you guys save me some research time. I'll try that web site. I think it might be a little late for the compression test since I believe you need to crank the engine to properly measure compression. I am not sure about the leakdown test, except I have read that the engine needs to be to temperature to be accurate. Perhaps after I put it back together, but thanks for the suggestion. | ||
| F-J'87EuroTR (Ferrarijoe)
Junior Member Username: Ferrarijoe Post Number: 180 Registered: 5-2001 |
Arnaldo, I also agree with Scott on the NGK D8EVX plugs. Big diiference! This might be the site he was talking about for them: http://www.clubplug.net/retail_vx_ngk.html Joe | ||
| Scott Grossman (Sngsmgaolcom)
New member Username: Sngsmgaolcom Post Number: 38 Registered: 2-2002 |
Arnaldo, When you replace the plugs I'd highly recommend the NGK Platinum Spark Plug (Part No. D8EVX). I put a set into my 1990 TR and they really made a noticable improvment in idle quality and the car seems to have a little more zip on the top end also. You can get them online for around $5.25 each HTH Scott | ||
| Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
Member Username: Benjet Post Number: 630 Registered: 1-2001 |
Arnaldo, I'd agree with Peter that a Comp/Leakdown never hurts, to check the health of the parts of the engine you are NOT going to be working on. -Ben | ||
| Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member Username: Caribe Post Number: 329 Registered: 2-2001 |
Peter, LOL, you scared me for a second! No, I just plan to remove cam covers to check valve clearances, replace o-rings and gaskets, and to use timing marks on cams on T. Belts replacement procedure. Ben, I have not been able to see any other deposits in the hoses and other parts of the cooling system that I've checked so far. It seems to be bound to the water pump only. Thanks for pointing out that access option to the gearbox gears. I'll take a look at it to see how easy, or difficult, it would be. Yes, I am also replacing the plugs. As far as the plug wires and extenders, besides a visual inspection and measuring resistance with an Ohmmeter, Is there any viable test for these wires? Saturday is going to be a big day. I will disassemble and rebuild the W.Pump, start, and hopefully finish, with valve's clearance checking. Then, if time permits, I will start taking a good look at the T. Belts, Tensioner bearings, and timing adjustment steps. Then, perhaps next weekend, complete T. Belts replacement, replace rotors on distributors, and the Shift shaft bellow. | ||
| Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
Member Username: Benjet Post Number: 626 Registered: 1-2001 |
Peter, I think (and I hope) that Arnaldo was only planning to pull off the valve/cam covers, NOT seperate the heads from the block. I HOPE! Arnaldo, Looking at your water pump pic and thinking a bit more, maybe someone previously introduced some form of "stop leak" type band aid stuff you get from the local Pep Boys, Kragen etc. That could have left a residue on/in your pump. Next on one side of the now removed assembly, below the engine itself there should be a removable panel, sometimes referred to as the transmission window (if I recall properly it would be on TAV 32 of the parts manual labeled item "2", part #107450). Removing this will allow inspection of the gears, but since I haven't seen inside mine, I can't tell you what to look for. Just one MORE thing to do (if you want), that's not in a routine 30k. To get to it you will have to remove the wheel and some other items that may be in the way, not sure if that is something you want to do. I also wasn't there when they replaced my shift shaft seal, but I hear it's a pain to do. Also be sure to carefully clean the distributor contacts and check the spark plug wires and extenders (and put in new plugs). That's all I can think of for now, I am trying to get my pics back up (online) so you have something to compare to. Keep up the good work. -Ben | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Intermediate Member Username: Peter Post Number: 1856 Registered: 12-2000 |
Whoa Arnaldo! Any reason why you're pulling off the heads? Check valves? I'd suggest doing a leakdown or at least a compression check before pulling anything off (I was wondering why you listed two head gaskets...). Don't quote me on this, but considering past topics about newer generation Ferrari engines and torque-to-yield head studs, you may want to look up in the WSM, if this is used on the TR engine and that the old ones must be replaced if you do remove the heads. P.S. Just trying to save you from (unnecessary) extra work . | ||
| Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member Username: Caribe Post Number: 321 Registered: 2-2001 |
Steve, thank for the information. I'll look up the secion about the Air pump in the owner's manual. By the way, I was just thinking that this would be a good time to get Tip and Ideas from those of you who have done this before and are willing to share the experience. All suggestions, and advise are always welcome. Thanks. My next step is to open the heads to check valves, but primarily to confirm timing with camshaft marks. | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 735 Registered: 1-2001 |
Arnaldo -- The air pump on a TR functions very differently than on say a carbed 308. On a TR, the air pump has an electromagnetic clutch so it is only active during "cold" operation (to supply extra oxygen into the exhaust stream to burn the extra fuel supplied when cold and to bring the cats up to temperature more quickly) -- so there is no effect on an emission test (which is done warm) whether the air injection system is functional or not. Also there are no extra obstructions (i.e., no air injector nozzles) in the exhaust path on a TR so having a working air injection system on a TR does not really impact warm running performance at all (except for the minimal power required to spin the unenergized clutch on the air pump). There's a decent write-up in the OM. | ||
| Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member Username: Caribe Post Number: 319 Registered: 2-2001 |
Ben, thanks for the feedback. After looking around at those hoses, I was wandering how expensive would be to replace those Smog Check Valves? I'll check with T.Rutlands. The fact that the car passes emissions well below limits makes me wander what function does the Secondary Air pump really accomplishes? Has anybody rebuild an Air pump? Shift Shaft seal seems to be leaking. Does the gearbox empties when replacing this seal? I replaced the gearbox fluid not too long ago. Oh well. When you mention checking the transmission, What exactly do you mean? I looked around the Rear axle boots and gearbox seals and everything is clean, no leaks there. Water pump deposits are a concern. Since hopefully the source of any issue resides in the water pump itself, when I get to open and inspect it I will determine if a real issue exist. Regarding Rust on pulleys and Tensioner bearings, what is the best way to clean or remove the rust from pulleys? I am not concerned with the T. Bearings since those will be replaced. | ||
| Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
Member Username: Benjet Post Number: 625 Registered: 1-2001 |
Arnaldo, 1. My first guess was it went bad, and it's a LOT cheaper to pull the plug on it rather than replace/rebuild it. Also check on the Smog Pump Check Valves. 2. They may have been replaced before, who knows? Altho my accesory belts also looked great. 3. Normal yes! good? not really. 4. Bend the belt in a loop teeth out, and look for small cracks, mine were small but not getting any better, if you get my drift, I can show you a pic if that would help you to see what you are looking for. 5. Corrosion/residue? Since the engine is all Aluminumn the only electrolytic metal contact is IN the water pump. Also look for corrosion on the areas behind the harmonic balancer, gently clean off the studs that need cleaning in the above pics. Also think about inspecting the transmission and replacing the fluid there as well. How is your shift shaft seal? that's right below your smog pump area...Mine was leaking, was easier to do while out and needs to be redone every few years as normal maintence on TR's. More thoughts later, enough for now. -Ben | ||
| Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member Username: Caribe Post Number: 317 Registered: 2-2001 |
Removed AC Compressor, Alternator, and Air Pump with their corresponding Belts. Removed Timing belt's covers. Took a peek into water pump. Findings: 1. Air pump was disconnected. Why would it be disconnected?  2. AC, Alternator, Air pump belts still looked near new. No cracks, or blemishes, of any kind visible to the naked eye. 3. There is rust on the front facing surfaces of the Tensioner bearings and Cam pulleys. Is this rust normal?   4. Timing belts look in great shape, except for some rust dust on its surface and teeth. No visible cracks on belts. No missing teeth, or damage of any kind. Except for the rust dust on them, they looked near new. I am sure they could have gone to the 52K miles that the manual recommend for replacement, but here we are, and it is time to do it. Twelve years seem long enough although nobody would say that from simply looking at the belts.  5. Water pump nozzle shows signs of some type of buildup or deposits. Any ideas on these deposits? Seems like a good time to open it up, cleanup, rebuild it, and flush the entire colling system.  |