| Author | Message | ||
| Edward G. Salla (350hpmondial)
New member Username: 350hpmondial Post Number: 15 Registered: 2-2002 |
I agree with the solinoid addition, just be sure to put a fuse in line at the battery, in the hotwires. To continue with the new, aftermarket, window switches. about $13.00/ea. After passing a flat file on the side of the switch, on all the brass contacts at once, to reduce the size of the male brass about spades about 1mm, (Note; the same amount of black plastic will also be removed). The "BREVET AnSor 9k S" type plugged in and look rightous. ( Better then the origional "TORRIX BteSGDG" type) took a total of 20 min for the pair. Looks Good too. | ||
| Robert Davis (H2oquick)
Junior Member Username: H2oquick Post Number: 74 Registered: 8-2001 |
Magoo, I completely agree with you, but he is safe on the switch with this process. I have done it...the reason why I say the carb cleaner(Gumout brand) is because the inside of the switch being gummy from..Armor All, spilled beverages and such. It seems to clean and remove on contact. The inside of the switch unless broken is very secure..but like Magoo said care should be taken...... | ||
| Richelson (Richelson)
Member Username: Richelson Post Number: 456 Registered: 12-2001 |
I would think any electrical cleaner would be a good choice. | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
Intermediate Member Username: Magoo Post Number: 2032 Registered: 2-2001 |
Be careful using carb cleaner. It is stronger than electrical contact cleaner and can melt some plastics. Also be careful of using the air hose, you may find or not find parts all over the place. Bob, not trying to step on you here just giving some helpful info. to eliminate future problems. I've been there. Brgds, Magoo | ||
| Robert Davis (H2oquick)
Junior Member Username: H2oquick Post Number: 70 Registered: 8-2001 |
They are easy to open...using a small hobby screwdriver..(like those small promo ones like Mac tools and Snapon give away) Pry the metal cover that surrounds the plastic housing(you need only to slightly pry on one side start on the one edge and slowly work down) Do this and the cover will slowly pull apart on the one side..DO NOT BEND THE EDGES OUT..now the cover should slide off..take the small screwdiver and seperate the rocker..it has notches on both sides and will pry out of the housing. Now the contacts are exposed. if you push down behind the spring you will see the contact move up and down, this has two sides. I used Gumout carb cleaner and sprayed the entire inside and outside of the switch, then blew it off with a airhose(you can use contact cleaner, but the carb cleaner works extremely well and will not damage the switch or leave residue) Next take a small piece of 400 or 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper tear it in a small strip and fold it in half where you can fit it between the two contacts, slide it back and forth several times on both contacts to clean any dirt or grease off contacts. Spray cleaner in the switch one more time, blow it off. Put the switch back together and it should work like new...The cleaner will make the outside of the switch look like new also, but do not get any cleaner on the rocker switch or it remove the imprinted arrows.. | ||
| Edward G. Salla (350hpmondial)
New member Username: 350hpmondial Post Number: 4 Registered: 2-2002 |
Whew, I finally back on, Those switches are the same as the Alfa Romeo GTV6's (I just bought a couple.) cept for the Alfa's have a couple little arrows on the toggle part. Seems that somebody in England finally made a new mold. I think I paid $13.00 each from Italian Car Parts, but they are new, and they are not NOS, the are from a new mold, but at least they are new! (I've been rebuilding these things for ten years now. I have yet to put them in my Mondial, so I hope I'm not blowing smoke, They look the same. I'll let you guys know.) | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
Intermediate Member Username: Bretm Post Number: 1526 Registered: 2-2001 |
They go to sensors and stuff so they're probably not sealed from the factory, I guess it's just a poor design from a maintenance stand point, they do hold well I guess. Alright, just checking to see if there's a trick. I think maybe using a pair of needlenose pliers or possibly a snap ring pliers even might be good. | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
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Bret I cant say that I have run into that problem especially with a metal clip on the harness connectors. I am pretty sure my car, older version, does not have them. Maybe it is a factory clip that is used like a seal, if destroyed shows that it was opened. Just a guess. | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
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Oh, I forgot to add, this metal clip that causes all these problems is totally unnecessary to hold the plug together, as it would do so from the pressure of the electric contacts (as any normal plug does). | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
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You're not the only one Tom. On the interior stuff I take care, but I have to admit that I usually wind up cracking those stupid plugs in the engine compartment that have a metal clip to hold them together. They're used to connect things like the FI system wires, tach sensors (those rectangular plugs that only go together one way). I wind up breaking off the top in a spot so I can get something under the clip to remove it (metal needs to be taken off to separate clip). On particularly ball busting ones there seems to be no way other than to break a small part of the top in order to get under the clip. You can try and pry the clip by the open edge all day long and not get it, especially when you're trying to do it in a spot that you can only see with one eye, reach with two fingers, etc. If you haven't seen them then you'll think my rambling is crazy, but if you know what I'm talking about does anyone have any tricks with them? | ||
| TomD (Tifosi)
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thanks, as I said I never did it. I understand what you mean, many times I try to open things without the remembering they need to go back together. | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
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Tom. You really don't want to use needle nose pliers on that bead. Use a wide blade tool and wedge it between the case and the bead as to not distort the bead edge. This is done for a better lock in of the bead when re-installing the cover. | ||
| TomD (Tifosi)
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MArcus I have never opened them but from your photo it looks like with a good needle nose plier you can bend the black metal away from the white plastic to open. To close, bend back? It may also slide out one end. | ||
| Marcus Adolfsson (Marcusadolfsson)
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Magoo, I think you are right regarding the problem being inside the switch. Any recommendation on how to crack it open (with the option of putting it together again  ).  Peter, it is the actual switch that you press on. | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
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You probably have a problem inside the switch. I think on your model as the old ones you can take the switch apart and use a contact cleaner, Radio Shack, on it. Also the springs and copper contacts inside may have lost there tension and you can adjust them. | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
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Is it the connector behind the door hindge thats not making a good connection? | ||
| Marcus Adolfsson (Marcusadolfsson)
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I have a TR 85 and have determined that the Window Switch is the cause of my passengar side window problem, since the window motor works fine (although s l o w) when using the other side's switch. I cleaned the connecters of the switch (using a screw driver), and used my multimeter to test the continuity of the pins. They tested identical to the working switch. However, when plugging the "cleaned" switch back in it only works 30% of time. Why would I get the continuity readings all the time if there is still a problem? Does it not let enough voltage pass? If I can't fix it, does any one know of a part supplier? Thanks, Marcus |