| Author |
Message |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
| | Posted on Monday, March 12, 2001 - 12:53 am: | |
Nope, ain't worth it. I'm in the midst of dealing with a sitting car and it hurts (my wallet and heart). Filling up the tanks should be done. When ever draining tanks, make sure you have a big container, I underestimated the quantity in my tanks...never had the s--- scared out of me like that before in my life! If the water heater in our garage was gas-fired...well...I wouldn't be typing this right now... |
BretM (Bretm)
| | Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2001 - 9:54 pm: | |
Topping off the tank is very important because it helps prevent condensation. When I store my boats I never drain the oil. The best way to store it is to take the steps that have been mentioned by the various respondents, but to also make an effort to drive it at least once a month. The longer it sits the more problems you will have when you take it out again, it may take a few miles for the problems to surface, but I promise you that leaving a car for any period of time will do no good. I always shudder when I see the really low mileage cars, especially the ones in collections because once it becomes a "collectors" car it can never be a car meant to be driven again. Those big bubble things (they are a plastic bubble that you put your car in, they're ads are in the car magazines) are really good. My friend used to have quite the extensive collection of exotics and he had each car in one of them. How long are you planning on storing it? How come you want to store it? |
Ulf Modig (Ulf308qv)
| | Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2001 - 8:26 pm: | |
Extended period of storage is not recommended, however here are some hints:
Change transmission/engine oil, coolant and brake fluid. Take take the car for a drive to make sure that engine/transmission oil is heated up to operating temperature prior to storage. Don't pull the parking brake and make sure that the humidity in your storage is less that 55% to prevent corrosion. Fill up the tank, (gas can be stored up to 12 months). Remove the battery and charge it every second month. |
Harry Aves (Hbgharry)
| | Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2001 - 2:37 pm: | |
hbgharry,
Hey there's some way to preserve anything. If it's "oil pickling" so be it. Perhaps the answer is upon initial startup, remove the oxygen sensors. Likely it'll be in open (or closed loop -- whatever) until the oil burns off. How-about the fuel. Can it be drained from the tank?
Thank you to whoever is knowledge enough to answer. Dealers tell me they require very little preparation for storage. Ain't buying it. They sell or trade the vehicles too soon to really be knowledge of what improper storage is capable of. |
David Prall (Davidpra)
| | Posted on Friday, March 09, 2001 - 2:28 am: | |
There is no reliable method to preserve modern FI components on any car while 'dry docking'. These parts will deteriorate if left dry or if immersed in fuel. The manufacturers combat this on new parts prior to their installation by coating them in a very light, organic oil. Even still, their shelf life is only about 2-3 years.
I would strongly discourage attempting to store a 355 for more than 12 months (even in optimum climates) unless you are prepared to replace many of the FI components upon revival. |
Erik Jonsson (Gamester)
| | Posted on Friday, March 09, 2001 - 2:08 am: | |
WWW.fitchfuelcatalyst.com 888-881-2774
This is supposed to keep gas from going bad and actually can restore bad gas. Who knows?
Erik |
Harry Aves (Hbgharry)
| | Posted on Thursday, March 08, 2001 - 1:57 pm: | |
What's the best way to store/preserve a late model F355. The car is on blocks, garaged and covered. I'd like to know if there is a pedcock to drain remaining fuel from the gas tank. Older vehicles I've stored using two stroke automotive oil. This I fear might foul the oxygen sensor. I'd appreciate advice on how to protect the car from deterioration. |
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