| Author | Message | ||
| Jorma Johansson (Jjfinland)
|
Peter, if I didn`t know which way to open a nut I havent bought an old Ferrari. The question was if the nut was special left hander of some reason. I have experience with left hand nuts, some years ago when I was doing tire work at my Scania transporter for my race car, the wheelnuts on left side of the bus ( special made for transporting the race car and sleeping) were left handers. We put just longer pipe on the tool to have more torque.Two people jumping on the pipe, no succes.Then we asked people who knows. Again it was much easyer.I have been racing now for 14 years in something called Scandinavian Special Saloon. First with a Corvette then F40, both made by myself. I send you later some pictures ( when I learn to use this thing better). Regards Jorma | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
|
HEG -- thanks for the info/comments (and I'd agree about the 75W90 being remarkably thinner at RT than the 80W90 -- although some of this may be related to synthetic vs conventional issues). Peter -- no experience with the Pennzoil, but I'd still say 75W90 is a better choice than 80W90 for us daily-drivers. | ||
| BretM (Bretm)
|
The best thing I've used is Amsoil 75w-90. I never had the second gear syndrom where it wouldn't go in, but I have noticed that the trans shifts smoother now, especially when it is cold. Before with Redline 80w-90 I wasn't that satisfied, when the trans was cold it was like shifting through pudding. Next time I change the gearbox oil I am going to try Mobil-1 75w-90, I have heard a lot of good stuff about it. I'm always in search of something a little better. | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
|
Herbert and/or Steve M.: Have either one of you used Pennzoil 4096 EP 80W90? Claims to be equivalent to GL-5/6 and is LSD compatible. | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
|
Jorma, remember this saying: "Righty tighty, lefty loosey" This applies to a typical fastener that tightens to the right-hand direction. | ||
| Herbert E. Gault (Irfgt)
|
I was using Valvoline 80w-90 and it seemed to be considerably thicker when pouring it in and I had to skip second when cold but now it goes right in. | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
|
H.E.G. -- what viscosity were you using before? I too use/used 75W90 (both Amsoil and AGIP) and just don't see any downside in trying to give the gearbox something a bit thinner when cold. | ||
| Herbert E. Gault (Irfgt)
|
You turn the nut to the left to remove it and the right to tighten. Yes the snap ring on my engine behind the trans. input gear was broken when I tried to remove it but since it is captured in the spacer after it is installed it should make no difference if it does break. I did purchase another one from T.Rutlands. By the way, I went back with 75W-90 gear lube sold by Coastal and it is noticeably thinner and makes the transmission shift much easier when cold and even better when hot. | ||
| Jorma Johansson (Jjfinland)
|
Herbert, what do you mean, regular left hand? Regular nuts are right hand. There is a differans if you should open and you tight up insted.  ?? | ||
| Paul308qv (Paul308qv)
|
Just for the record, another option is to make the 'special socket' by purchasing a $7 socket of the sufficient size and using a grinder or file to fabricate the tool you need. I did this and it worked very well. I can't remember the actual size of the socket I had to buy but I basically had to remove about 5mm of material strategically to leave the remaining four fingers to grasp the nut. Just a thought if you like beating the system like me. | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
|
I used an impact wrench with the special socket to remove that ring-nut on the trans. imput shaft. It is not neccesary to remove the top ring-nut. Jorma, pay attention to that imput shaft, there is a snap-ring behind the bearing that is difficult to remove. Mine deformed when I removed it (Herbert, did you say to me before that yours broke?). The bellhousing wasn't difficult for me to remove, but the intermediate plate (between the BH and the engine block) was a royal pain! Its stuck on with one large gasket, be patient. Its true what Herbert says, if you're going to this extent and everything will be done, it will be basically brand new. | ||
| Herbert E. Gault (Irfgt)
|
I used the special socket that is available through Baum Tools to remove the special nuts on the transfer gears. They are regular left hand nuts but are held on pretty tight with a final torque of about 73ftlbs. I am not an expert on finding the history of a vehicle since I make my own as it seems everyhing I can afford needs extensive work to the point that the history is useless to me. If you have the engine scattered all over your shop it does not matter how many timing belts or how often the oil was changed. The History just started over. | ||
| 308i80 (Lamont)
|
Right Peter, I wasn't sure if there was a big different's in the GT4 engine bay and GTSi. | ||
| Jorma Johansson (Jjfinland)
|
Now it´s Saturday evening in Finland, the engine lift did go fine, thanks again. I did not remove the intakemanifold but moved the liftingplace according irfgt´s advise and the engine tilted just perfect. Then I lifted the engine until I could see the fastening nuts of Sinistra thru the rear window, then the rest was easy. The reason to strip the engine as little as possible was not get any dirt inside, it was really dirty. The next question is, is there something special with the nut holding the lowest gear inside the cover on bellhousing, I did open the locks and tried to unscrew it with no success. I did not want to use much power , I thought it´s better to ask. Is it lefthand or what´s the idea? I belive the highest one comes with the bellhousing? The car is originally from USA, is there a way to find out the history of the car with the serial number? | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
|
The reason why I removed my tanks were to: 1- Gain more access to remove parts like the Sinistra manifold, A/C pump, bellhousing, etc... 2- To restore the finish on the tanks, as they were dirty from road debris and overspray from a paint-job years ago. But that was the main reason, to gain access. I really don't know how anyone could've removed that sinistra manifold with the tanks in place. The GT4's chassis is identical to the GTB/S, only difference is the GTB/S had a 4 inch shorter wheelbase. The rear structure is identical in construction. | ||
| Jorma Johansson (Jjfinland)
|
Thank you all, it is Saturday morning in Finland and I am going to start the operation. I bought the car from Germany and did not get any information about the condition and the engine is very unclean.Car otherwise looks very nice and clean, no rost. The valvecovers in red looks beautiful but I tested to polish one ( partly ), that really looks superb but will they remain that way? | ||
| 308i80 (Lamont)
|
You my have to remove the Rear Head for more maneuveing room. | ||
| 308i80 (Lamont)
|
The fuel tanks do not have to come out of a 308GTSi 80 to remove engine. | ||
| Erik Jonsson (Gamester)
|
My motor is out, it took between 4 and 8 hours as we were cleaning and degreasing along the way. I didn't pull the starter or fuel tanks. Start by taking off the decklid, put tape on the paint where the front edge of the decklid meets the rollbar, as you loosen the bolts the decklid will hit the body. The exhaust manifolds did need removed, but the trans was left complete. CV joints are a bit of a pain to detach, careful with the allen bolts. Undo shift linkage, wiring(note the groundstrap underneath), coolant and fuel hoses. May want to take off your caps and rotors since they are expensive and easily damaged. We had to tip the motor a bit to get it out. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=483698&a=8389458&f=0 | ||
| Herbert E. Gault (Irfgt)
|
Peter's 308gt4 is apparently different from a later model 308gts in that removal of the fuel tanks is not necessary. The biggest reason to remove the intake manifolds is to provide an attachment point to lift the engine/transmission assembly. I used a 22" chain attached to the intake bolts on the forward head and it provided the perfect tilt for the engine to clear the rear window and allow the assembly to turn after lifted for the transfer gear case to clear the left rear suspension wishbone. Please look at the pictures on the excess oil consumption heading for how the engine looked as I reinstalled it. I left the starter and alternator on the engine which is a much easier job than when in the car. Here are some pictures of my spare engine with the chain installed on the exact bolts I used to remove and install mine. It looks like it is not strong enough but it is more than adequate.    | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
|
Herbert Gault who posts here has just finished doing a rebuild, I'm in the midst of one myself. There are MANY things you must remove before lifting it out. You must strip the motor of its accessories (Alternator, A/C pump, starter, intake system, clutch/bellhousing...etc.). You must remove the fuel tanks (careful when emptying the tanks!!!). BOTH exhaust manifolds must be removed, the Sinistra (front) one is easy, but the Destra (rear) was difficult. I had to lift the motor slightly and push it in the engine bay, so I could clear the differential and the tubes of the chassis. The engine/transaxle is lifted out together and split once on your engine stand or easier if done right on the floor of your garage. But in the end, if you're just curious to the motor's condition, do compression and leak-down tests to see if you have any problems first. Are you planning this because you didn't get any records of service when you bought your car? (like my situation) | ||
| Jorma Johansson (Jjfinland)
|
I just bought my 308 GTSi -80, and are going to go open the engine to see its condition. How to lift up the engine? It looks a little bit tight. Must I strip off the foreword manifold? What about the gearbox end? |