| Author |
Message |
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
| | Posted on Monday, March 26, 2001 - 10:09 am: | |
Can't stop myself from chiming in here. The copper washers really aren't directly reusable -- although I will concede that if they are reused as-is, they generally work fairly well (but it can contribute to thread problems as it takes more torque to get a good seal).
A new copper washer is in a soft (annealed) state, but when it is "crushed" (strain-hardened), the copper material loses a great deal of its ductility -- so if reused, it is much less able to deform/conform to the sealing surfaces at the same torque on the plug. Try bending a new and used copper washer with your fingers (like folding a quarter in half) � you�ll feel the difference in ductility.
If you are forced to reuse a copper washer, you can re-anneal it by heating it to "cherry-red" and then letting it air cool slowly (do not quench it in water!). The heating can be easily done in the burner flame of a gas kitchen range, and after cooling the black oxides that form on the surface should be brushed away before using (I hold the washer with a pair of needle-nose pliers and heat the exposed material up to the cherry-red state and then move the pliers 180 deg on the washer and repeat to ensure all the material in the washer is heated above the recrystallization temperature at least once).
Personally, I don�t mind paying the ~$1 each for a new one when it�s an oddball size and I just need 1 or 2, especially if I�m buying some other F parts anyway. However, for fluids work I buy the sizes I need in bulk from:
Global Metrics
Belmont, CA
650-592-2722
My TR is more of a pain since it requires multiple washer sizes, but if you�ve got a 308/328 and do you own engine/trans fluid work you might consider getting a handful of the 22 x 27 x 1.5 size from Global (they are best referred to as �solid copper sealing washers� to distinguish them from other non-solid copper types).
JMHO |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
| | Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2001 - 11:42 pm: | |
At those intervals (3K and less), there is really minimal build-up of crud in the pan. The plug under the step-down gears has a small magnet in it to trap metallic debris. Makes sense for that application as you get more wear from the tranny parts as you do elsewhere in the drivetrain. But for the engine oil, I wouldn't worry.
Speaking of drain plugs, I don't know who did this before, but my oil drain plug was on so tight, I had to use a breaker-bar on the hex-key bit to get it off! When replacing, a wrap of the teflon tape sealed it up. |
HEATH VAUGHN (Heath)
| | Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2001 - 11:21 pm: | |
MY ONLY CONCERN AT THIS POINT IS SETTLEMENT IN THE SUMP, ALL OIL HAS A SMALL AMOUNTS OF IMPURITIES COULD THSE BUILD UP AND CAUSE A PROBLEM? WILL THE FILTER CHANGE I DO EVERY OTHER OIL CHANGE ARREST THIS? ALL I CAN SAY AT THIS POINT IS IT WAS REAL EAZY! SHOULD I CHANGE OIL EVERY 4TH OR 5TH TIME THE OLD FASHION WAY? I TEND TO CHANGE THE OIL EVERY 3 MONTHS ANY WAY WHICH IS USALLY LESS THAN 3000 MILES. |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
| | Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2001 - 11:11 pm: | |
I remember reading that process at expensivecar.com and was always suspicious about that device. Is it really that effective? I've always drained the oil by the plug, as the engineers intended. |
HEATH VAUGHN (Heath)
| | Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2001 - 10:37 pm: | |
I NO LONGER HAVE THAT PROBLEM. YESTERDAY I CHANGED MY OIL IN GOOD CLOTHES I DID GET SOME OIL ON ONE FINGER. I BOUGHT A PUMP AS SHOWN IN EXPENSIVE CAR LINK TOOK ABOUT 15 MIN. THE PUMP WAS $11.OO AT AUTO ZONE. I USE TO HATE OIL CHANGES ON MY FERRARI BUT I NOW HAVE A NEW ATTITUDE.
HEATH |
Warren E. Smith (Magoo)
| | Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2001 - 5:38 pm: | |
LEONARDO, The next time you get your oil changed put on a new copper washer and wrap the threads with teflon tape before installing the oil plug. The problem is probably the washer. They get various seating marks on them after a few oil changes, and tend to seep. Just be sure when you tighten the plug it snugs up to a stop and doesn't want to keep on turning. If it feels like it doesn't want to tighten under moderate torque you might have stripped threads. MAGOO |
Leonardo Soccolich (Lens)
| | Posted on Sunday, March 25, 2001 - 4:49 pm: | |
Could this be a bad copper washer, or are the threads of the oil pan shot? I�ve gotten quotes from a dealer to replace the oil pan�$400 plus labor. |
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