| Author |
Message |
David Prall (Davidpra)
Junior Member
Username: Davidpra
Post Number: 93
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2002 - 5:23 pm: | |
It's easy, it's illegal... I could tell you, but then I'd have to kill you...
However, come into my shop, sign a release, and we'll talk... |
Mike Fisher (Mikef)
Junior Member
Username: Mikef
Post Number: 95
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2002 - 3:48 pm: | |
Magoo,
When I had my belt failure on cyl 1-4 that was the first thing they told me that could have caused it, as they have seen this happen many times. As it turned out this was not the case for my problems. The air pump spun freely. Actually the pump was brand new 10 months ago. But I guess it does happen on occasion. |
bruno bandaras (Originalsinner)
Junior Member
Username: Originalsinner
Post Number: 169
Registered: 5-2002
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2002 - 2:26 pm: | |
If anybody is interested. I got an article on how to put most emission stuff back on. It should give you an ideal of what to remove.It does mention some side effects if not done correctly. It seems to say either take it all off or leave it all on. do not just unhook the belt. |
Jeff 77 GTB (Jbk)
Junior Member
Username: Jbk
Post Number: 95
Registered: 4-2001
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2002 - 11:13 am: | |
Magoo, when I bought my car the air pump belts were off and 1 pump was seized solid. Probably from the inactivity. I would suggest that before putting the belts back on, check for free rotation of the pump. Beyond the risk of seizing the forward bank pump and impeding the cam rotation, I would doubt there's much of a performance penalty. |
magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member
Username: Magoo
Post Number: 2916
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2002 - 10:41 am: | |
While we are on this subject, Given that everything works as it should with the AIR pump system, has anybody heard of the pump locking up and throwing the timing belt off or breaking it causing anything from a aggravating problem to a engine disaster. I wonder what the chances are given the age of the system? |
Jeff 77 GTB (Jbk)
Junior Member
Username: Jbk
Post Number: 94
Registered: 4-2001
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2002 - 6:27 am: | |
Terry, I have a 77 GTB and stripped all the emissions off. I waited until I had the engine out to remove the co monitoring lines and air injector nozzles. It would be very difficult to do in place. Before that, I removed the airpumps and lines up to the diaphragm valves just before the air manifold. Then take the valves off and cap the manifold connection with an NPT pipe cap. It's actually a standard NPT thread and you can get a cap to fit at any hardware store. Dont leave the valves on as the exhaust will likely burn them out. |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Intermediate Member
Username: Peter
Post Number: 1883
Registered: 12-2000
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2002 - 1:31 am: | |
I didn't want to strip the threads in the head in removing the injectors, so generous application of penetrant-spray and light use of an oxy-acetelyne torch flame (just to warm it up a bit) did the trick for me.
But yes, my engine was out for this and the heads off the block...
As I said before, my analyzer tubes broke while trying to remove them (they're made out of steel and severly rusted on my car). I just cut the rest off and with the exhaust manifold out of the car, drilled out the old fittings and tapped new, 1/4"NPT threads for stainless compression fittings. |
Terry Springer (Tspringer)
Junior Member
Username: Tspringer
Post Number: 106
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2002 - 7:37 pm: | |
Ive been looking at the diagrams for the emission stuff in the owners manual and shop manual and have a better idea of all that is involved now. However, still a couple of questions:
Is it even possible to remove CO analyzer tubes? They look as if they will be very hard if not impossible to remove on the front bank. It also looks as if the air injectors on the front bank are also impossible to remove with the engine in the car.
I want to take this stuff off, but not if it requires an engine rebuild to do it! I will have the air cleaner assembly, distributors, rear decklid, coils and cam covers off of the car while detailing the engine bay and upgrading the ignition. With this stuff all removed, is it possible to remove the CO tubes and air injectors? Any tips on how to do it?
Frank: thanks for the tip. Since I plan on doing all of my own work on this car, Im not terribly worried about getting turned in to the Feds. However, my real name is not Terry Springer, I dont really live in GA and my car is not in fact a Ferrari but a new experimental electric vehicle that uses no fuel other than water and puts off zero emissions. I promise! |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Intermediate Member
Username: Peter
Post Number: 1881
Registered: 12-2000
| | Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2002 - 2:04 pm: | |
You may leave the exhaust gas analyzer tubes in the manifold (and even if you try to remove them, they'll more than likely break, as mine did. I replaced them with stainless-steel fittings and tube), but you should remove the air-injectors and plug the holes (these are located on the cylinder head itself, just above the exhaust port).
Other than that, remove its related plumbing and hoses and be done with it.
|
Frank Parker (Parkerfe)
Member
Username: Parkerfe
Post Number: 996
Registered: 9-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2002 - 7:06 am: | |
Terry, while there are no emissioon testing in Georgia for 25 year old cars, it is still a violation of Federal law to remove the emission systems from any car. So, if you remove it, be careful on what mechanic you use for service and repairs. I have heard of tree hugging mechanics turning people in to the federalis and having their car confiscated. |
Greg Rodgers (Joechristmas)
Member
Username: Joechristmas
Post Number: 364
Registered: 3-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2002 - 5:36 am: | |
Steve M. wrote a great article on this. The worse thing that you can do is leave the belt off. You also have air injectors that need to be removed and plugged. With the belt being removed for sometime now from what you said will make it difficult to remove then and many may break off. Not getting the cool air from the pump can make them very brittle over time due to excess heat. I am not sure if you are talking about the CO probes or the air injector rail. Don't forget about the diverter valves too. |
bruno bandaras (Originalsinner)
Junior Member
Username: Originalsinner
Post Number: 158
Registered: 5-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, June 22, 2002 - 10:05 pm: | |
The thingys in the exhaust manifolds are co tubes. They probaly won't come out but if the do you can remove them and plug them. I keep mine removed and plugged because if You break one off in the back manifold it is engine out to redrill and tap it.They are used by dealer to set up carbs for emnissions.I set my carbs the old fashion (correct) way. |
Terry Springer (Tspringer)
Junior Member
Username: Tspringer
Post Number: 105
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, June 22, 2002 - 9:43 pm: | |
I am going to be taking the 308 off the street for a few weeks to take care of some stuff. Going to upgrade to Ben Millermons distributor setup and an MSD, upgrade the AC to a rotary compressor and replace the dryer, change all fluids, detail the engine bay and remove all of my emissions stuff.
My car is a '77 GTB and in GA there are no emissions requirements for a 25 year old car. I will keep the parts in case a future owner needs them, but I prefer them in a box. The pump currently has the belt disconnected and it has apparently been that way for some time.
My question is, exactly what all do I need to replace or re-route? Obviously, I can yank the air pump off, but what about the thingy's in the exhaust manifolds and where do I route all of the hoses? Will this effect the crankcase breather?
I figure there must be guys on here who have done this and can give me some pointers on doing it right and any issues that need to be addressed. Any and all help is greatly appreciated. |