| Author |
Message |
Neville Pugh (Nevpugh68)
New member
Username: Nevpugh68
Post Number: 47
Registered: 7-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 25, 2002 - 3:31 am: | |
Hehe, no prob Kelly .... with a name like "Neville Pugh" you wouldn't BELIEVE the variations I get :-)
Nev |
Kelly J. Vince (Tifosi1)
Member
Username: Tifosi1
Post Number: 263
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2002 - 8:22 pm: | |
Sorry Neville,
Can I blame it on typing.
We don't have psell check. HAHA |
Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
Member
Username: Benjet
Post Number: 684
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2002 - 12:08 pm: | |
Stu -
Do you need to drain the cooling system completely before adding the Water Wetter product?
No. Altho it is not a bad idea, it's not necessary.
Or can you just drain a bit, and add a couple of bottles to the already mixture of coolant/water?
Yes.
Never used the product but very interested in reducing my temp. Is Water Wetter a subsitute for coolant or an enhancement?
Enhancement.
The (mostly technical) information on it can be found here:
http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/wwti.htm
Again for $5 a bottle (the TR needs 1.5-2 bottles), it's a good buy.
-Ben |
stu cordova (Balataboy)
Junior Member
Username: Balataboy
Post Number: 226
Registered: 4-2001
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2002 - 10:55 am: | |
Question;
Do you need to drain the cooling system completely before adding the Water Wetter product? Or can you just drain a bit, and add a couple of bottles to the already mixture of coolant/water?
Never used the product but very interested in reducing my temp. Is Water Wetter a subsitute for coolant or an enhancement?
Thanks |
Neville Pugh (Nevpugh68)
New member
Username: Nevpugh68
Post Number: 45
Registered: 7-2001
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2002 - 9:36 am: | |
Another little tip : I've wired up a hidden switch in the cockpit to kick in the radiator fans as and when I want to. My fans and switch work fine, but I look at this as insurance - if the switch ever packs in, I can turn the fans on myself. And if I hit a load of bad traffic in hot weather (hot weather ? here in the UK ? pah, chance would be a fine thing !) then I can flip the switch and get the fans running BEFORE the car starts to heat up. Preventative cooling, so to speak.
Me ? Paranoid ?!? :-)
Also, you are using distilled water aren't you ? Tap water, esp in some areas (e.g. mine) has a lot of impurities and lime, which can coat the inside of aluminium engines quite badly, apparently. An indication of how bad your area is, look at the element on your kettle .... if it's badly coated, that's what the inside of your engine might look like ...
Neville
p.s. Kelly, close on the name ;-) :-) |
magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member
Username: Magoo
Post Number: 2915
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2002 - 12:18 am: | |
Agreed Ben, Water Wetter is a great product. I use it in all my cars. It won't fix a mechanical problem but in a properly operating system it helps in lowering the temp.. |
Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
Member
Username: Benjet
Post Number: 683
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2002 - 12:10 am: | |
Henryk if you have a problem like a bad thermostat, of course the Water Wetter won't be helpful. I can say that is has considerably lowered my in traffic temps on my cars and is worth the $5 a bottle.
Just my experience.
-Ben |
Henryk (Henryk)
New member
Username: Henryk
Post Number: 24
Registered: 8-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2002 - 10:55 pm: | |
I have tried the Redline product in an over-heating TVR Griffith, and was not impressed. The problem turned out to a bad thermostat (only one year old), and once replaced, the problem was solved. Solve the problem (in this case, air bubbles) and you don't need to through money away on Redline. My 88TR runs fine in the hottest of weather, without any additives. |
Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member
Username: Caribe
Post Number: 365
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2002 - 10:45 pm: | |
Thank you Robert! Your timing couldn't be more perfect. I am about to flush and refill my cooling system, as probably one of the last steps on the 30K Major service I am performing on my TR. Great information! |
Kelly J. Vince (Tifosi1)
Member
Username: Tifosi1
Post Number: 261
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2002 - 9:39 pm: | |
I discovered this the same way RR.
Nevell out of England told me to fill the tank to the top, bleed all the air. I did the water wetter myself. I never had a problme since, except it started running up on me again. It was the hoses. They were bad, so I replace all the hoses.. Now at most the right hash mark in traffic 95 degrees AC on.
I'm happy. Enjoy |
Dr Tommy Cosgrove (Vwalfa4re)
Junior Member
Username: Vwalfa4re
Post Number: 171
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2002 - 3:19 pm: | |
Sometimes you just have to go back to the basics. Seems almost too easy to work but how many of us have done exactly this? I mean Exactly. I finally got my temp down with a trip to the radiator shop and a good rodding and cleaning.
Good post. |
Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
Member
Username: Benjet
Post Number: 682
Registered: 1-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2002 - 2:30 am: | |
Good work there RR!
Rob Lay - this should get a spot in the parts and service bin. 3x8 Cooling System Check Up <$20 parts, <1 hour labor, unless you count the test drive. ;)
-Ben |
Robert Rothschild (Rothschild)
New member
Username: Rothschild
Post Number: 14
Registered: 6-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, June 23, 2002 - 12:23 am: | |
After researching the numerous posts that have appeared on F-chat regarding this topic, I came to the conclusion that 3 factors would help reduce the relatively high water temp issue that I have been experiencing lately:
1) check for and eliminate all air in system
2) check antifreeze ratio and supplement with Redline Water Wetter, while shooting for a ~40/60 mix
3) ensure adequate gap in expansion tank
What I was encountering was not outside the normal range, but consistently close to the upper limits of normal. After about 20 minutes of normal driving, oil temp would remain relatively constant at about 200-210, but coolant temp was always at 195 to maybe 210 and every once in a while on a really hot day (105 with AC on) would climb above 210. Turning the heater slides all the way up, with high fan speed did little or nothing to reduce the temp nor would shutting off the AC. Both fans work correctly, and in the proper sequence and seemed to be pulling through a large volume of air.
So I pulled up the archives, did a little research and figured out that the wise advice offered by all of you could help me fix this problem on my own before it got worse.
First, I checked the expansion tank, there was less than a 3cm gap between the coolant surface and the top of the expansion tank.
Second, checked the anti-freeze to H2O ratio, roughly 50/50 mix. Removed quite a bit of coolant mix, and added 2 bottles of Redline Water Wetter and a sufficent quantity of straight H2O to the mix to bring the ratio down to a 40/60 mix. Made sure that I now had an approximate 7cm gap between the coolant surface and the top of the expansion tank.
Next, leaving the cap off the expansion tank and cranking open the heater slides, opened the bleeder thumbscrew valve on the top right of the radiator...tons of hissing air then bubbles and coolant, closed bleeder screw.
Next, grabbed a 13mm socket wrench and opened up the brass bleeder screw on the top of the housing for the thermostat, (right side of engine just behind & below the rubber bellows connecting the air intake from the passengers side air scoop and the air box) again...lots of air and then a steady stream of coolant. tightened up the bolt, being very careful not to overtighten.
Rechecked the gap in the expansion tank, still roughly 7cm. Cap back on tank and fired her up to check for any leaks, none.
Finally, and this is the best part, took her out for a nice brisk spin (once everything had a chance to get nice and warmed up of course, I don't exceed 4,000RPM until the oil temp reaches about 190) and drove her relatively hard for an hour in 85 degrees with the AC on high.
Result? 20+ degree drop in my operating temp! Rock solid on 170 most of the time, in slower stretches with a little bit of traffic the gauge climbed to just under 195 but then almost immediately dropped back down to about 170, must have been those fans kicking in to do their job?
Just thought I'd share. If it hadn't been for the info on this board I may have run way beyond normal on the next 105+ day while stuck in slow moving SF bay area commuter traffic.
THANK YOU! |