| Author | Message | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
|
Oops -- here's the VX jpeg:  | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
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Gary -- no experience here with the Denso or the AC you list. The two "special" characteristics of the VX series plugs are: 1. The center electrode is a small diameter (0.8 mm) and it is exposed (unlike the Bosch Platinum), and 2. the center electrode and side electrode are a high melting temp (and rather inert) metal -- Platinum for the VXs, but Palladium or Iridium would be in the same league. Here's a jpeg of the NGK VX for comparison if you get a chance to see the Denso or AC plug.  | ||
| Herbert E. Gault (Irfgt)
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I run the AC R42XLS with no problems in my 82 308. | ||
| Gary van Hartogh (Garyvh)
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Thanks for all the information. You're all a wealth of knowledge and it is appreciated greatly. I think I will go with the NGK plugs as most of you think they are the best. I did go to the local Auto Zone to see it they had them and they said the DENSO #3066 or the AC-DELCO #R42XLS were compatible. This is the first I have heard of this. Any thoughts?? | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
|
Peter -- I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "strong". A resistor spark plug just has some built-in internal DC resistance: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/faq/faqresistor.asp which limits the maximum current in-rush during firing but only very slightly reduces the spark energy delivered during firing. I believe the resistance of the spark plug wires also plays a roll in this since they are in series with the plugs (i.e., a super low resistance spark plug wire in conjunction with a non-resistor plug will produce the most EMI). I think any ignition system (points, XR700, whatever) will have no trouble at all with resistor or non-resistor plugs. | ||
| Craig Dewey (Craigfl)
|
In the good old days when plugs were "colder" (which means a lower tip temperature), you could compare plugs by the distance from the tip to where the ceramic insulator makes contact down in inside the plug body -- the shorter the path, the colder the plug (shorter distance for heat to dissipate to the plug mounting threads). I said "good old days" because now, I'm sure that there are additives to the ceramic material that can change the heat conductivity and make it more difficult to see this with your eyes. Ideally, for your driving style, plug tips should be hot enough to burn the deposits off, not foul and not be too hot to cause preignition/detonation. The recent goal in plug design has been to make plugs with a wider heat range, obviously a benefit for Ferraris, where you go from the need to be able to idle for a long period to flat out 8000RPM driving. Using high energy electronic ignitions can help by allowing you to fire thru partially fouled plugs -- meaning you can run colder plugs than you would normally. | ||
| Warren E. Smith (Magoo)
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Gary, I installed a set of NGKBPR6EVXS in my 79 308. I have been very pleased with them in that they don't carbon up like the other plugs I tried. Performance is better and exhaust is not as rich. MAGOO | ||
| '75 308 GT4 (Peter)
|
The number is the heat range. With NGK's, the greater the number, the colder the plug. 6 is dead smack in the middle. The Resistor notation means that it doesn't produce interference with radios and other electronic equipment in the car (Steve M.: I had BP6ES in my car and coulnd't get any radio reception, are they that strong? Will those effect the XR700's?) NGK letters/numbers: B = 14mm thread dia P = projected nose insulator R = resistor 6 = heat range E = thread reach of 19mm S = copper core (other letters equal different alloys, that Steve M. mentioned). | ||
| Mark (Mnmark)
|
OK. for all you EE's out there: The number in the spark plug type (BP6EV, the "6")is the resistance of the plug, right? Wrong? Do I know what I am talking about? Anyway, is there any advantage/disadvantage to running plugs with more or less resistance? (Yes, obviously all 8 would be the same -- or 12, or 6, whatever) I found it interesting that the NAPA guy in this little town looked at me funny when I got 8 plugs. He "kindly" let me know the those plugs were for four cylinder cars. | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
|
Hey -- I just realized you can buy BPR6EVXs at that same site: http://www.clubplug.net/retail_vx_ngk.html for $4.70 each -- best price I've ever seen! | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
|
Gary -- the two plugs you�ve listed are a little bit different in several ways (although they�d both �fit� a 308): The NGK BP8EV is a non-resistor, very "cold", Palladium fine-wire center electrode plug that is no longer available unless you can find some NOS (the NGK Palladium "EV" series has been superceded by the fine-wire center electrode Platinum "EVX" series that are only available in resistor type). I'd only go this cold ("8") if you're hitting triple digit speeds for an extended period on a daily basis. The more commonly used NGK heat range for the US is the hotter "6" � ergo, BPR6EVX is probably the most popular �exotic� NGK plug for US 308s. Here�s a site for �decoding� the NGK part numbers: http://www.kaila.net/tl125/tl125ngkcode.html The Champion RN9YC is a standard electrode style resistor plug that cross-references to the NGK BPR6ES which is NGK�s standard electrode design. (Although I�m not sure about your 315 stock number as this site: http://www.clubplug.net/cross.html shows the RN9YC stock number as 415). I know everyone�s getting tired of me saying this � but I�d recommend using the NGK BPR6EVX (they�re a tad expensive, ~$7 each, but worth it IMHO). | ||
| Gary van Hartogh (Garyvh)
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There have been many messages regarding spark plugs for the 308QV.Originally listed were the NGK BP8ev or Champion RN9YC, now NGK 2671 and Champion 315 respectively.Are these numbers accurate or is there a better "over the counter" plug? Thanks for the help. |