| Author |
Message |
Paul Newman (Newman)
Junior Member
Username: Newman
Post Number: 244
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 26, 2002 - 7:03 pm: | |
I removed my intakes and bolted a solid plate to the front head/intake flange. The plate had 2 hooks welded to it. I lifted the engine and gearbox complete and by lifting it this way, I didnt need any sort of balancing or adjusting component. The front lifted first and maintained the correct angle to clear the engine bay front and rear. In the elevated position, I unbolted the front header at the rear window height, then lifted it the rest of the way out. Good luck. |
Tom Treue (Treue)
New member
Username: Treue
Post Number: 16
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 26, 2002 - 7:37 am: | |
Ben:
Comments on Ric's letter:
1. I used two straps, routed under the engine and transmission pans, and located the lift point at the forward side of the intake plenum. This will cause the front of the engine to tilt up somewhat and thus allow the engine to clear the two firewalls. If you keep the engine level and lift it straight up, it will hang on the firewalls and go no further.
2. DO NOT allow one end of a half shaft to hang free without some sort of support (like a piece of bailing wire), even for a second. There is a short tube out of the side of the CV joint, hidden by the rubber boot, that will be damaged by just the weight of the shaft (it's solid and quite heavy) and the disconnected CV joint resting on it. |
Ric Rainbolt (Ricrain)
Junior Member
Username: Ricrain
Post Number: 166
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 26, 2002 - 12:38 am: | |
It�s not practical to separate the engine from the transaxle while still in the car.
ENGINE REMOVAL (brief version):
Disconnect the battery. Remove the rear bonnet. It�s best to have at least two people for this. Place towels on the basket hoop (roof) to protect the finish. Disconnect the plumbing (multiple places), electrical connectors, drive shafts, shift linkage, throttle cable and clutch cable. I personally remove the fuel distributor separately to avoid any damage or leaks. I also fully remove the drive shafts (half shafts) to get them out of the way. Don�t mix up the drive shafts and mark them so you know which side goes in and which goes out. Dismount the oil cooler and remove it. Dismount the compressor and leave it connected to the lines. Raise the engine with a cherry picker (engine hoist) and an engine balancer. For best clearance, the differential should be lowered using the balance. Neither the transaxle nor the engine oil have to be drained at first, but it may be easier to do it before you start. If you�re working under an 8ft roof, you may have clearance problems. 10ft or more should be no problem.
|
Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Intermediate Member
Username: Irfgt
Post Number: 1529
Registered: 2-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 25, 2002 - 7:46 pm: | |
Pulling he entire drivetrain is the way to go. No special tools needed until you get the assembly out, then write again for further instructions. |
Ben Millermon (Brainsboy)
New member
Username: Brainsboy
Post Number: 19
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 25, 2002 - 7:10 pm: | |
Just curious the best way to remove a 308 motor from a 1981-308gtsi. Can you pull just the motor, or is it easier to pull the entire thing out with drivetrain. I want to replace the valve seals. Any special tools needed to remove it? |
|