| Author | Message | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 815 Registered: 1-2001 |
Don -- The information on the CO plugs for the exhaust sample ports: F Part Number: 110860 thread: M12 x 1.25P about 10~12 mm long head: 17 mm hex about 5~6 mm thick Cu washer: 12 mm ID x 17 mm OD x 1.5 mm thick As installed on my TR:  | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 814 Registered: 1-2001 |
Don -- IMO, you really can't improve on the stock spring-loaded exhaust flange connection design IF the gasket is supported (compressed) on all three sides (i.e., if the new hardware doesn't have the tubular inner wall to support the gasket's ID, you could have problems). There's a "CO Plug", that with a copper washer, can be used to close the (M12?) sampling ports (once you've drilled out the old fittings and chased the threads). I don't have the F PN at my fingertips (but I can get it -- if someone can post it please do), and I'm sure there's an exact/near DIN equivalent you could get from a metric hardware company -- but that takes time rather than $. Keeps the tubes off the car so it prevents their inevitable embrittlement, and they're in good shape when/if needed for service. Classic Tube reproduced a couple of the sampling tubes for my TR, but they weren't super-responsive (although the price was about 25% lower than the F discount part price) -- if you've got the bits/samples they might be able to help you if there are part price/availabilty problems from the usual F part sources. | ||
| Mike Fisher (Mikef)
Junior Member Username: Mikef Post Number: 98 Registered: 11-2001 |
I have also found some donuts at my local muffler shop. Bring in the old one and see if they can match it up. Don't tell them it is for a Ferrari cause they will insist they don't have anything. Whenever I have an odd part like this I tell them it is for an old hot rod and have no idea what the original source was. I also always coat everything with Permatex Muffler & Tailpipe sealer #80335, before putting it all together. Things seem to slide together much easier and I have never had it leak. | ||
| Robert Johnson (Carb308)
New member Username: Carb308 Post Number: 4 Registered: 12-2001 |
Don, I hate to admit it but, I also have used the self tapper screw and JB Weld for the air tubes. It is Mickey Mouse but has worked for over 2 years. I think that the screw is doing the sealing more than the JB Weld. As far as Exhaust donuts, I sourced some from a local muffler shop that are a little larger in diameter, (.030 in), and thicker. I made sure that the pipes lined up exactly before I began tightening the flanges down,(stock sprimg bolts). Tighten down evenly until the flanges dig into the donuts. No leaks yet. There is no magic in the donuts, just careful alignment and tightening. Good luck, Robert | ||
| Don McCormick (Dandy_don)
New member Username: Dandy_don Post Number: 19 Registered: 2-2002 |
Hi, need some advice. Finally got the car running this weekend after 5 months and new T belts, new water pump, all new rubber hoses, new clutch and new brake pads F+R) I have learned quite a lot. Next is the carb and ignition rebuild but that is after I get to drive this thing. I do have two exhaust leaks that I need help on. One of the exhaust gas sampling tubes No1 cyl (rear bank) has rusted off at the flare fitting where it screws into the exhaust manifold casting. I removed the tube and tried to remove the flare fitting. Of course it sheared off as I applied torque. I then obtained a short stainless steel self tapping screw with washer and coated it with JB weld and then screwed the whole thing into the reamins of the tube just where the flare fitting had sheared off. Will JB weld hold up to the heat of the manifold?? I feel that the screw will stay pretty well as it was slightly oversize. Also, I removed the catalytic converters and substituted test pipes made by Nick ( who can't sell you the exhaust donuts) and obtained some exhaust donuts from a local parts store which are very close in size to the originals. Problem is, after bolting it all up and starting the car I have exhaust leaks at two of the four joint locations. Do I need to use the Ferrari original donuts? ($$$$ I suppose) or should I abandon the compression springs and bolts setup used stock to put all of the exhaust components together. Perhaps I am not getting it tight enough even though I mostly have the springs fully compressed. Or I could use some sort of heavy bodied exhaust gasket sealant on all of the parts at each connection. Also, Nick's test pipes have flanges on one end that are flat with no chamfer as opposed to the other end where the flange has a chamfer to accept the donut. Which end goes to which side as the exhaust donuts required are two different sizes? Your thoughts on the above would be greatly appreciated? |