| Author |
Message |
Kenneth Brealey (Krbrealey)
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 10, 2001 - 8:57 am: | |
Kelly,
Stay tuned, maybe one our fellow owners will help us solve this problem once and for all. Your 1980 sounds just like my '82, except my connections are all intact. You may be the lucky one.
Thanks, |
Kenneth Brealey (Krbrealey)
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 10, 2001 - 8:54 am: | |
Ang,
Thanks for the advice. Took some time this weekend, cleaned all electrical connections I could find regarding this problem. Didn't find any dsconnected or cracked vacuum lines. The second switch you mentioned at the coolant tank, is that electrical, or vacuum? The cold start light comes on just like it's supposed to, does that mean the switch is working? Is there an auxilliary air by-pass device that could be failing?
Thanks again, |
Herbert E. Gault (Irfgt)
| | Posted on Friday, April 06, 2001 - 4:06 pm: | |
If you reconnect the tank switch wires does the engine now fast idle and the warm up light now come on? It should. |
kelly vince (Tofosi1)
| | Posted on Friday, April 06, 2001 - 11:39 am: | |
My 1980 308 does the same thing. I noticed that the sensor on the expansion tank is looped back. So, it is not hooked up. You think if I get a new sensor the cold idle would be better. Right now it at 800 RPM and I have to keep my foot on the gas to make it go up to 1,000. Seems like wants to die all the time when it's cold. |
ANGELO ALBANESE (Lbanez)
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2001 - 10:40 pm: | |
there is a temp switch by the thermostate, this retarads the ignition by 5 deg. to help quicker warmup, check that there is condinuity when cold,(switich is closed) this retards the timing, then it should open at about 120 deg. to advance the timing, this will have an effect if it's not working on the warm up, also there is another temp switch at your coolant bottle, ,where your rad cap is, that switch controls the auxilary air by pass which allows more air into the air intake causing the idle to rise to about 2500 rpm, this also turns on the light at you dash to indicate cold start is on,check all your connections around the air valve ,near the warmup regulator, for cracked vaccuum lines or disconnected ones...hope I haven't confused you......Ang |
Kenneth Brealey (Krbrealey)
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2001 - 8:18 am: | |
I can answer a couple of your questions right now, but not all. This problem came on very suddenly. Yes, the amber warm up light comes on at start-up, then goes out after about 2-3 minutes. After warm-up everything functions normally. Good brakes, etc. Don't know about the vacuum though. I'll have to check. Thanks for your help. |
Herbert E. Gault (Irfgt)
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 03, 2001 - 5:51 pm: | |
I am going to have to have some additional info to make a proper diagnosis. Did this happen all of a sudden or was it gradual? Does the amber warm up light come on and go off in about 5 minutes? When the engine is cold is there vacuum on the hose going to the aux. fast idle valve? There should be none. Do the power brakes seem to work OK and have good assist when stopping after the engine is warm? Let me know the answers and then I can narrow down your problem. |
Kenneth Brealey (Krbrealey)
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 03, 2001 - 9:44 am: | |
Having problem with the 308. When cold starting it is difficult to even keep the engine running. After warming up it idles very nicely at about 1000 RPM. Have replaced Dist. Caps (ouch) and rotors, Magnetic pick-ups, plugs, and warm-up regulator. Local dealer ran compression check, checked both control units, fuel pressure, and coils (all OK). Still no luck. Has anyone else had this problem? Any ideas?
Thanks |
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