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Message |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Junior Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 173
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, July 07, 2002 - 9:40 am: | |
MY CAM INSTALLATION SEQUENCE:
(I think it's just a more detailed version of what you're implying in the post originating this thread.)
With the engine on TDC:
-The rear bank cams will just about drop into place as all the valves will be closed or almost closed.
NOTE: This bank has pistons on TDC, so be very careful to keep the cams on the marks as you tighten the caps. The intake cam in particular will want to shift a few degrees on you. I used a strap wrench on the pulley to keep the cam aligned.
- The front bank exhaust cam has one of the valves fully open when it's on the mark. However, the pistions are in mid-stroke, so there's no possibility of piston-valve interference. (Ric Rainbolt told me you can safely rotate the forward bank cams 360 degrees, which is handy for setting up the valve clearance).
You just lay the forward bank exhaust cam in with the mark roughly 30-40 degrees advanced off of the mark (ie: angled towards the rear of the car). The cam will naturally find a position. The intake cam will find an 'agreeable' position much closer to the mark.
Working from the clutch end of the engine, install cam caps & catch each nut a couple of threads.
Then go back & finger tighten each nut as much as you can w/o a wrench.
I seem to remember that it was only one or at most two of the caps on the pulley end of the cam that I couldn't start the nuts.
Once you've got every nut on that you can, start at the pulley end of the cam & working toward the clutch end of the cam tightening each cap nut ~1 to 1-1/2 turns. Thus keeping uniform pressure along the length of the cam. It only takes a couple of passes until you can get the nuts on the last cap.
At this point, the cam is still cocked upwards towards the pulley end. Make 2 or 3 nut tightening passes as described above, except that you level the cam out by turning the nuts between the pulley end & middle of the cam an extra 1/2 to 1 turn. Watch the amount of thread protruding thru the end of the nuts.
Once yo've got the same amount protruding thru all nuts, the cam is leveled. Make multiple passes tightening 2 turns/nut on each pass until the cam is snugged into place.
It's possible that it's safe to make more than the above turns/nut. I just decided that this was as much as I dared to do.
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Paul Newman (Newman)
Junior Member
Username: Newman
Post Number: 246
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 03, 2002 - 7:46 pm: | |
Pick the most agreeable position so you have the most threads through the caps. Set all your valve clearances by hand and position them after that. |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Intermediate Member
Username: Peter
Post Number: 1887
Registered: 12-2000
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 03, 2002 - 2:41 am: | |
I would make sure everything is roughly in time (TDC @ #1 and all four cam marks as close as possible to cap marks) and then do as you said, a little bit at a time starting from the middle cap and working towards the ends.
I say roughly in time, as I think one cam will be quite high up and won't reveal enough threads to start bolting down. Turn slightly then it'll be enough. |
Mitchell Minh Le (Yelcab1)
Junior Member
Username: Yelcab1
Post Number: 200
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 02, 2002 - 10:33 pm: | |
Normally, I just pick the most agreeable position for the camshaft(s) and slowly bolt them down a little bit at a time, making sure that they are straight and not crooked.
is this still the best method for a Ferrari (BMW require a camshaft holding fixture, does Ferrari?) |
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