| Author | Message | ||
| Adam Goldman '86 TR (Icnsltmfg)
Member Username: Icnsltmfg Post Number: 383 Registered: 8-2001 |
Try Wurth. | ||
| Ben Lobenstein 90 TR (Benjet)
Member Username: Benjet Post Number: 698 Registered: 1-2001 |
Personally I would NOT replace the board or the white connectors as you are throwing good money after bad not solving the problem at hand. But that is just *MY* opinion. See the links posted below. I finally/recently got around to "upgrading" all the other connections that I hadn't done before (only did the one that failed - when it was needed), should be bullet proof now. -Ben | ||
| Edward Gault (Irfgt)
Intermediate Member Username: Irfgt Post Number: 1753 Registered: 2-2001 |
Call T.Rutlands. | ||
| Glen Mckenna (Johndillinger)
New member Username: Johndillinger Post Number: 12 Registered: 7-2002 |
broke down and purchased a new fuse box out of montreal - now im looking to replace the bad (white connectors) does anyone know of a source - Ferrari of Montreal didnt have any.... Anyone ?????????????? | ||
| Glen Mckenna (Johndillinger)
New member Username: Johndillinger Post Number: 10 Registered: 7-2002 |
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| Glen Mckenna (Johndillinger)
New member Username: Johndillinger Post Number: 9 Registered: 7-2002 |
Hey Steve, Check the male pin - looks like its also damaged - causing a weak connection on the board - so it looks like im either going to replace the board or try your fix - how difficult was it ?? | ||
| Glen Mckenna (Johndillinger)
New member Username: Johndillinger Post Number: 8 Registered: 7-2002 |
Thanks - you've been a big help | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 860 Registered: 1-2001 |
Glen -- On my frazzled AC connection the female socket and the male pin weren't reusable/restorable (with the male pin corroding significantly at the base and breaking off, and the PWB/solder pad took a fair beating too) so I never considered nor tried just getting the connector replacement parts to do the fix. The physical connection (giving the electrical connection) between the female socket and the male pin is just way too marginal IMO (not enough contact area and the heat generated weakens the mechanical spring properties of the tuning fork-like female socket) so I wanted to go to something more reliable. I'm not a big of fan of cutting-up/modifying a car's wiring system, but just restoring the original design didn't seem like a practical long-term solution in my view. | ||
| Glen Mckenna (Johndillinger)
New member Username: Johndillinger Post Number: 7 Registered: 7-2002 |
Steve, If your still out there - did you repair your burnt connection problem the way you did because you couldnt buy or find the white connectors needed? | ||
| Dino Micalizio (Ingenere)
New member Username: Ingenere Post Number: 20 Registered: 12-2001 |
My 87 TR has the same fuse board problem with the AC circuit and left fuel pump circuit. I found the solution to be to every few months take the connector off, clean them, and pinch them together. As long as I do that on a regular basis everything works fine....WARNING...if you just let the thing arc...it will eat the fuse board!! I have tried to source those white connectors as well as the female connectors that go inside...with no luck  ...does anyone know where to get them? | ||
| Glen Mckenna (Johndillinger)
New member Username: Johndillinger Post Number: 6 Registered: 7-2002 |
so you didnt replace the white connector ? | ||
| Adam Goldman '86 TR (Icnsltmfg)
Member Username: Icnsltmfg Post Number: 367 Registered: 8-2001 |
Glen; I cleaned the connector with elect cleaner and then pinched the female pin back into shape. I then pluged the connector back in and repeated this a few times to ensure the pin gap did not open. It has worked fine ever since. I will pull the fuse panel this winter to see if I caused any other damage. | ||
| Glen Mckenna (Johndillinger)
New member Username: Johndillinger Post Number: 5 Registered: 7-2002 |
well i guess the next step would be to remove the board and inspect the solder and male pin for further damage - is there anyway to inspect these without pulling the board ? i would guess not (unfortunately) or would you buy the new connector insert pins, clean, grease etc etc (then keep your fingers crossed?) | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 858 Registered: 1-2001 |
Glen -- review these posts for more information: http://server.ferrarichat.com/~ferrari/ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/21/68832.html http://server.ferrarichat.com/~ferrari/ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/112/10152.html | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 857 Registered: 1-2001 |
Glen -- an example of a frazzled AC female socket on the white connector (that can't be seen when the connector is plugged in):  Usually the solder and the male pin on the PWB also suffer so you'd need to judge the health of each component to determine what to "fix" (if this is your problem). | ||
| Glen Mckenna (Johndillinger)
New member Username: Johndillinger Post Number: 4 Registered: 7-2002 |
well i guess we can forget the previous messages -just got home and opened things up - and sure enough (like steve mentioned) second pin socket is fried - now what ? | ||
| Glen Mckenna (Johndillinger)
New member Username: Johndillinger Post Number: 3 Registered: 7-2002 |
1) inspect the strips and make sure they are clean and show no discoloration and if so change them first. your talking about the molex connectors (correct) the white plastic strips that hole the pins in place. If they do show discoloration, what do you mean by (change them) order new connectors ? remove all the pins and replace just the strips ? | ||
| Michael N. (Man90tr)
Member Username: Man90tr Post Number: 583 Registered: 4-2001 |
Not so quick about the relay. I would do what Steve says below first and take off the white strips and inspect them closely. the usual culprit is the two white strips on the bottom left (as you look at the fusebox from the front.) Look for browning and discoloration. I would 1) inspect the strips and make sure they are clean and show no discoloration and if so change them first. 2) if the strips are clean and show no damage at all, then I would replace the relay. And no need to replace all relays, just the AC relay. I think its the one on the top row fourth from the left -- look at the fusebox labels. | ||
| James Selevan (Jselevan)
New member Username: Jselevan Post Number: 37 Registered: 6-2002 |
Glen - if the compressor is cycling intermittently, it is more likely the pressure switch located on the dryer-filter in the front of the car (passenger side). This is a little black can-like device. Mine did the same thing, compressor would cycle on and off every 15 to 20 seconds. I had to replace this part with a new dryer-filter (approximately $170 from Ferrari), which is delivered with the switch as part of the dryer. It solved my problem. Apparently the filter gets inpregnated with debris over the years, and the resulting high pressure turns the switch off. Something to check. Jim Selevan | ||
| Glen Mckenna (Johndillinger)
New member Username: Johndillinger Post Number: 2 Registered: 7-2002 |
God you guys are quick - yes the power to the center console is out - blower is off and no power to control the heater vents (lights are out) so i guess its the relay - i should replace all of them i guess. | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 855 Registered: 1-2001 |
Glen -- Did you actually unplug the upper left (as facing the fuse/relay panel) white horizontal connector to inspect? (AC is the second pin/socket from the right -- two brown wires in the socket -- one large, one small). I would have guessed that even on working systems there'd be some thermal discoloration of the white housing. | ||
| Michael N. (Man90tr)
Member Username: Man90tr Post Number: 582 Registered: 4-2001 |
Yes, replace the relay first, it might be overheating or just bad. If that doesn't work then get back to us. Just thought of something. If I recall correctly, The AC relay also controls power to the entire center control panel in the car. When you say the AC quits are you saying that the fan stops blowing and the entire system shuts down? Or is the fan still blowing. I suspect that if the fan is still blowing then its more of a compressor issue than a relay issue. in fact when I was having the same issue you have, I could tell if the AC would work simply from the lights on the heater vents (on the same relay), so what i did was adjust my floor vents to show a couple lights. if those lights are on and fan blowing when you put on the AC switch, then its probably not the relay. In my case it was a the clips on the bottom. Just remember, just because the clips do not show burn marks is not a sign of they are O.K. The intermittent AC is telling you possibly that a clip(s) is going bad. Mine did not show burn until about 3 weeks of doing what you said, by then it was too late and I needed a new fusebox (had a meltdown so to speak). Another test is when the Ac quits, leave the car on with the Ac swtich still on, open the fusebox and gentle press on the relay, then gently press on the bottom row of white clips. if the Ac system jumps back on when touching one of those --then its probably not the relay and its the connections. Hope this helps. Michael Hope this helps. Michael | ||
| Glen Mckenna (Johndillinger)
New member Username: Johndillinger Post Number: 1 Registered: 7-2002 |
Just experienced an a/c problem with my 90 TR - a/c is intermitting - comes on when it feels like it (make things worse i live in Florida) Where should i start - i inspected the (molex looking) connectors in the fuse box (everything looks ok) no burned pins - should i replace the relay ? any help would be appreciated. | ||
| Jim DeRespino (Jimbo)
New member Username: Jimbo Post Number: 13 Registered: 10-2001 |
Adam, I had a similar problem with my 94 512TR. The AC electricals cut out suddenly. I traced the problem to the circuit/relay board. Everyone said to just replace the board, but I found a burned spade connection by checking the temp at all the connections with an inrared thermometer. The bad one was twice the temp of all the others. I soldered a $.01 conector in place and have had no problems for 2K miles. I also cleaned EVERY connection with electrical spray cleaner and applied dielectric grease for added security. A 1 cent connector versus a $700 circuit board. You do the math. | ||
| Michael N. (Man90tr)
Member Username: Man90tr Post Number: 545 Registered: 4-2001 |
One thing my mechanic pointed out that the culprit isn't always the fusebox. When replacing the fusebox make sure you replace the white strips and clips on the bottom. Actually if you catch it early you only have to replace the white strips and clips as they are the ones that arc and burn up the fusebox. The main white strip that starts the problem usually is the one on the bottom far left (as you look directly at the box from the front of the car). hope this helps. Michael | ||
| Adam Goldman '86 TR (Icnsltmfg)
Member Username: Icnsltmfg Post Number: 353 Registered: 8-2001 |
I will have to check what #'s they were, but they were in the R/R wing behind the black ECU box. | ||
| F-J'87EuroTR (Ferrarijoe)
Junior Member Username: Ferrarijoe Post Number: 247 Registered: 5-2001 |
Adam, You said, "I had some hesitation from the motor which turned out to be a few bad relays in the RR wing." What relays did you replace and can you post the (Bosch?) part�s#? Thanks, Joe | ||
| Arnaldo Torres (Caribe)
Member Username: Caribe Post Number: 370 Registered: 2-2001 |
Adam, unfortunately, I just had my first experience with electrical issues on Monday. My driver side cooling fan does not want to come on. On my drive Monday, I could smell something that smelled like electrical stuff burning. Yesterday, I opened the Access door to the Fuse Panel and the two connectors for the Cooling fans are burned, I wander why only the driver side is not working. Anyway, I am tracking down a solution here at FerrariChat, from people that have gone through this already. Your points are well taken. I was wandering the same thing when I was doing my major service. There were gravel and corroded parts everywhere in the engine compartment. Special care must be taken when washing the car due to the issues you mentioned and others. For example, there is no protection for the Timing belts besides the covers which does not really protect against spills or water entering that area. Pulleys and bearings start corroding which could have a very negative impact on the life of those belts. Now when I wash my car, I cover the entire engine compartment with a tarp to prevent water from getting in all the wrong places. | ||
| Adam Goldman '86 TR (Icnsltmfg)
Member Username: Icnsltmfg Post Number: 352 Registered: 8-2001 |
I have had some minor electrical problems over the last month or so, but have narrowed most of the problems back to age of the car (16 years), poor design, and the enviorment. I had some hesitation from the motor which turned out to be a few bad relays in the RR wing. Why they would put relays like that in an unsealed box in an unsealed engine compartment still baffles me. While my mechanic was doing a tune-up, I was fearing 2 replacement caps at $600 piece, when he told me that they should never fail if the rotors are replaced before they wear out ($60) and just keep the caps clean on the inside. I also had a coil go bad the other day (another bad design). Who puts a coil under an open vent with the wire coming off the bottom so water can wick in. I replaced both and put the good old one in the boot for a spare or if someone I am with craps out. Check your fuse board. I had the A/C work on and off, and traced it to the main energizing wire (Two brown leads into the R/S top white quick connect) where the contacts had loosened up on the blade and was arching. It burnt the connector at that pin, but cleaned it and re-pinched the contacts and was as good as new. Being one of the higher amp circuts, please check that connection. I wound up removing all of the quick connects for inspection and cleaning. Last, I think I am going to replace all of the relays and fuses in the panel, and then keep the old ones for spares. 16 years is a lot of time, and technology, so it is better to be safe than sorry. Anyone else have any suggestions / tips |