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Steve (Steve)
Posted on Monday, April 16, 2001 - 8:05 pm:   

Gary you just hit the bulls eye. I just finished my 77 308 and used the hand vacuum pump. Worked like a breeze. I had to get the bias valve rebuilt and the whole system needed to be drained. The pump was a snap. Started with the rear right worked up to the fronts. I could see when the new fluid was introduced into each brake calp. Did all 4 and jumped into the car and the peddle was right up top and firm. Good luck. Steve
Kurt (Mightyone)
Posted on Monday, April 16, 2001 - 12:18 pm:   

Jeremy at Ferrari of Washington taught me his method on Saturday.

Drain reservoir with a turket baster, and refill with new fluid. Then attach a hose that continually feeds the reservoir with fluid using via airpressure from a pressurized canister as you bleed each line. Begin bleeding from the outermost wheel and work your way to the wheel closest to the reservoir. Bleed each line until you see the clear fluid seep through.

Note - Don't open each line all the way (only quarter turn), and dont force the valves as you untighten them (I broke one by forcing it).

Otherwise it was easy and it worked great Thanks Jeremy! I got home in one piece, which says a lot, because I am not very mechanically inclined.
Gary van Hartogh (Garyvh)
Posted on Monday, April 16, 2001 - 8:07 am:   

I'm glad I asked the question? Thanks for all the responses. A technique that my mechanic showed me is to use a hand held vaccuum pump hooked up to the bleed valve. Since these pumps have a clear plastic bowl you can actually see the fluid change color as you start to extract some of the new fluid. Of course as you are doing this the new fluid needs to constantly be added to the master cylinder. This technique takes no time at all.
Craig Dewey (Craigfl)
Posted on Monday, April 16, 2001 - 6:44 am:   

Has anyone ever tried one of the pressure type bleeders where you fill a large reservoir and pump it under pressure to bleed the system. The ads say these systems keep air from getting into the brake lines without having to check constantly while the process is going on.
Paul308qv (Paul308qv)
Posted on Sunday, April 15, 2001 - 9:21 pm:   

Jeff, I agree with Steve but you are thinking the right way when you are concerned about getting air into the system. If you 'turkey baster(sp?)' the old fluid out, just make sure you keep the new fluid from ever 'running out' in the master cylinder, this will cause an air bubble in the line that may not make it all the way to a bleed valve during your process. I constantly check the fluid reservoir. If I ever accidentally run it dry, I refill and keep bleeding until I feel sure I have moved the potential bubble all the way out. Good luck.
Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Posted on Sunday, April 15, 2001 - 4:38 pm:   

Jeff K,

Neither. I think the best method is to remove most of the old fluid from the reservoir (with an old Turkey baster or some other vacuum device) and refill the reservoir with new fluid -- then purge the old fluid out of the lines by bleeding at the brake cylinders (you must have a 250TR) or calipers.
Jeff K (Jbk)
Posted on Sunday, April 15, 2001 - 3:21 pm:   

When you change your brake fluid, is it better to keep refilling the master cylinder with clean fluid while bleeding it from the brake cylinders, or drain the system completely and then refill it?
I'm worried if I drain the system completely I might not get all the air and moisture back out. Anyone have experience with this?
308i80 (Lamont)
Posted on Friday, April 13, 2001 - 9:52 pm:   

I was told the samething that Steve just stated, from Ferrari of Campbell.
Steve (Steve)
Posted on Friday, April 13, 2001 - 11:07 am:   

I just had some brake parts done at White Post restoration (Bias valve,F/R circuit valve)and I asked them about using silicon fluid and they said not to.Seems some of the early seals swell up with the silicon fluid. They said use DOT 3 and change it every year if you store the car for 3-4 months. Steve
Gary van Hartogh (Garyvh)
Posted on Friday, April 13, 2001 - 8:26 am:   

I am in the process of changing the brake fluid on my 308QV. Do we use the stardard DOT3 fluid or is there something else I need to consider?

Thanks ...... Gary

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