| Author |
Message |
'75 308 GT4 (Peter)
Intermediate Member
Username: Peter
Post Number: 1906
Registered: 12-2000
| | Posted on Friday, July 12, 2002 - 12:18 am: | |
My fear is not of the mounts, but the actual frame channel. Its only 10ga. and measures about 1 X 2". This isn't meaty enough to raise the car.
Follow your O.M.'s: jack car up by outside frame tubes and support there. Best and safest. |
Terry Springer (Tspringer)
Junior Member
Username: Tspringer
Post Number: 132
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 6:19 pm: | |
I believe they are talking about me. I jack from the engine, thus lifting from the mounts. However, where the mounts bolt in is a substantial bolt and the way its fixed in the mount I cannot fathom it causing a problem. I just went and examined the old mounts I have. It would appear the mounting part is substantial enough to fall into the catagory of NO WAY it could pull out.
Remember, these mounts are not of the rubber variety. They are a metal housing with a large spring inside. The piece that bolts to the frame member is a threaded steel housing that is fixed inside the main housing, it cannot pull out. If they were standard rubber type mounts, I would not do it this way. |
JPM (John_308qv)
New member
Username: John_308qv
Post Number: 35
Registered: 4-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 5:17 pm: | |
Yipes! Guess I wasn't very clear. Sorry. Didn't mean to suggest that the car be lifted by the mounts. The question is about supporting the engine while working on the motor mounts. |
Bill Sebestyen (Bill308)
Member
Username: Bill308
Post Number: 273
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 4:24 pm: | |
I'm not sure lifting the car by the engine sumps is a good idea. While that part of the engine/transaxle assembly is probably plenty strong, I worry about the motor mounts during the lift. I've never taken a motor mount off to see how it's made. Maybe it's ok, but I know it's designed to hold the engine/transaxle up. When you lift the car by the sumps, you're loading the mounts in the opposite direction and now you are also supporting the majority of the chassis weight too. |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Junior Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 191
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 4:18 pm: | |
HMMM, YOU'RE LIFTING THE CAR BY THE MOTOR MOUNTS..
I haven't looked at how 308 motor mounts are made, so I guess I won't comment.
MY OLD JACKING STRATEGy:
My jack will slide under the rear of the car. I used to pick it up by one of the frame rails just behind where the wish-bone attaches. & put a jack stand under it. Then I'd switch the jack to the frame to the other side.
MY SAFER STRATEGY:
However, my lift is about 1/2" shy of going low enough to slip under the pinch welds. I cut a 2x12 into 4 ~30" sections. I made 2 of the cuts at about a 30 degree angle so they make a nice ramp. Then I marked where to put them on the garage floor so each would support a wheel. Just drive up on them & there's plenty of clearance to get the lift arms (or a jack) under the car... |
Terry Springer (Tspringer)
Junior Member
Username: Tspringer
Post Number: 131
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 3:42 pm: | |
I didnt tighten mine with a torque wrench, just "tight". I supported the engine/trans on a block of wood on the floor jack. I had all 4 mounts off at the same time and to get things lined up on reassembly I had a friend wiggle the engine on the jack some to help line things up. A tapered punch helped too.
I jack the back of the car up the same way. Use a 4" diameter wood block on the jack centered on the divider between engine and trans. sump. I believe this location and a wide block of wood to distribute the weight is plenty safe for supporting the car. Jacks stands under the car before I am of coarse... |
Verell Boaen (Verell)
Junior Member
Username: Verell
Post Number: 188
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 3:19 pm: | |
Just tried both the 308QV/328 workshop & the 328 Specs manuals.
Neither list the engine mounts. I think their bolts are 8x1.25 in which case the torque should be 2.5 Kg-m(18 Ft-lb). If they're 10x1.25 then the torque should be 3 Kg-m (~20 Ft-lb). These numbers are derived from the torques spec'd for similar sized threads where one end is in an aluminum casting.
IMHO: 18 ft-lb would be sufficient in either case. |
bruno bandaras (Originalsinner)
Junior Member
Username: Originalsinner
Post Number: 237
Registered: 5-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 11:59 am: | |
I'll look up the tourqe and post if no one else does. I have to get home to do it. I am on the road. |
JPM (John_308qv)
New member
Username: John_308qv
Post Number: 34
Registered: 4-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2002 - 11:52 am: | |
I asked this question in another thread and got no responses so I thought I would bring it up here. There might be others who might benefit from this information.
Questions regarding working on the motor mounts:
1.Does anyone have the proper torque values for the engine mount bolts? I put these on by feel and was concerned about over-tightening or under-tightening the connections.
2.What is the best way to hold up the engine while working on the mounts? I used a long piece of 2x4 across the oil pan and held it in place with a floor jack. It this necessary? I could not tell if the engine moved while I was working on the mounts. If it is necessary, is there a better way to brace the engine? Thanks, John
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